Update: Having a little case of buyer's remorse. I bought a 1998 4.0L 125k miles for $2200. It is now clear that the mechanic owner did the bare minimum maintenance to it (probably due to finances). So, yes, he did change the fluids religiously, but basically did little else (unlike how a hobbyist would overzealously do). Not terrible, but the ideal seller is not a mechanic, but an amatuer guy who just throws money at the car. At $2200, I didn't get ripped off (I think) b/c I got a running Jeep with minimal rust.

But, I could have paid a little more and gotten a better kept XJ, b/c mine will need some work.

1) The XJ has used tires that show dry rot. I will be replacing them for $500 or so.

2) The suspension needs attention. The car pulls slightly to the right. Not major, but mildly annoying. Maybe it's just the tires. Then again, I assume the entire suspension is original from 98. Shocks are rusted color. I also get some klunking while hitting bumps, and a knock when I do a full U-turn. No idea how bad things are, but I assume this could be a $1000+ problem.

3) Also, the exhaust has rust holes in it (muffer? Catalytic?) Not sure which it is. Might need a full exhaust redo. $1000+?

4) The driver's side window does not work. He said he replaced the regulator recently, so it must be an electronic flaw.

5) Rocker has a rust hole in front of the driver's rear wheel. I think a step was installed, and it helped rust out that area. Maybe I'll get a shop to just don something quick and dirty (b/c this is not a show car) and patch that area. Is this possible? Rusted out area is about the size of my hand.

So, this "deal" at $2200 looks like it's going to need some immediate attention in the tune of $2000-$3000, depending on what tires, exhaust, and suspension run me.

The moral of the story is that other $4200 1996 with 70k was by far a STEAL, considering the seller already had about $5000 worth of work into it. New tires, rims, all new hoses, new cooling system, etc. And the thing was immaculate. The best deal is not the cheapest car, but the one with the most money already sunk/lost into it. I should have bought the $4200 Jeep b/c by the time I am into my 98 XJ for $4200, it will not be nearly as good as that 96, I believe.

Any feedback and advice is welcome. I will also post pics later today.

 

You're always gonna have things wrong with any used vehicle. These things need looked at so you know the problem before you start throwing out prices about how much it gonna cost.

 

You can get an exhaust from a vendor here for I think somewhere around 300 bucks. And that's with a flowmaster. Then just bolt it up or pay somebody to weld it up for you.

 

Hey Jason,

I looked more closely at the exhaust. It seems like the protective plate that lies on top of the catalytic converter is loose/rattling. But the CC itself seems solid. The muffer also is starting to rust out with a layer/sheet peeling off. So, I think the exhaust stuff will not be major.

The more concerning this is that there is definite rusting of exposed bolts all over. The battery terminal bolts are rusted solid. The bars that hold up the exhaust near the back has rotted totally off. The bar that holds #8098 on below:


I don't know how much of this is normal. In general, it seems like lots of bolts are rusted solid. Even one of the interior seat bolts has disintegrated into a lump. How does one even get something like that off? I need to remove the seat to replace the airbag module. DIY is hard enough for a non-expert, but rusted bolts make the entire process a nightmare (or simply not doable) It's not reassuring knowing any DIY project can be halted dead in its tracks with one rusted out bolt.

I think the suspension is out of my league. Shock bolts look rusted solid. Game over. The other suspension stuff is way out of my league due to prof. tools needed or rust issues. Put it this way, even EASY DIY's are difficult for most people. Something ALWAYS goes unplanned (stuck bolt, etc), and it takes 10x longer than forum gurus say it will take. I never do any project without the entire day free. I can do stuff that is remove and replace, and is well documented with tons of photos. Most only DIY's are weakly documented and assume way too much, unfortunately.

I will have a mechanic look at it this week. It was something I should have done before buying, but it's near impossible to do that with a $2000 car that is located 1 hour away. We will see just how bad the suspension is. I assume all rubber bushings are rotted out. It would be amazing if it's just an alignment, and not major structural issues.

Also, the driver's side window does not roll down.
The passenger's side window can be rolled down from the driver's side, but not the passenger side.
Does this mean the actuators are bad? Is there a DIY that explains how to fix this? I have door trim tools as well.

One the plus side, the car starts right up, 4x4 seems to work, and the car looks clean and straight from 10 feet away.

 

Look for 'mudfrog' for an exhaust system.

Enough said

 

DAMN, I sure bought the wrong XJ. For the same price, mine needs a ton of stuff, and will never be as good as this. Look at this specimen and price. Shiit, I knew I should have waited.
http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/3343916332.html

 

The mechanic looked at my XJ. He agrees that the suspension needs work (tie rods, ball joints, shocks, etc) He also agreed that the exhaust/muffler needs to be replaced. Otherwise, he said the engine seems fine. This is good news. I have no issue fixing up these 2 items b/c these are normal maintenance items. Figure $1000 or so...The XJ should be a strong driver once I address these standard issues that most used trucks will have.

 

UPDATE:

Mechanic said I need a new muffler, but the rest of the exhaust is fine.

Rotors are rusted through, so I will have him do rotors/pads.

Front Left wheel bearing is shot. Other one is fine.
Front Right U-joint is shot. Other one is fine.
Instead of replacing in pairs, he suggest to just fix what's broken.
(What are your thoughts on this? Should I just do both wheel bearings and both U-joints?)

The Tie Rod end ball joint needs to be replaced. I said I might try that one myself. Or am I nuts? I think the hardest part is to get the bolt free. (PB blaster and a torch?) He said to measure out the exact length of the arm so I keep the length the same with the replacement. I can get someone to align it for me afterwards. I'll need a ball joint tool. What's better, a long pry bar like ball joint tool, or a ratcheting ball joint tool?

Radiator seems to have a very small wetness/leak, so I think I will try replacing the entire cooling system myself. (New radiator, hoses, water pump)

Serpentine belt needs replacing. Can you replace this without removing the radiator? (slide your hands in there?)
Any general feedback on this situation?

 

Brakes and rotors are easy. I'd do them myself as well as the radiator. And you can align it yourself after you get the tie rod ends done.

 

UPDATE: Mechanic gave me a quote for $750 for the following:

Replace muffler
2 front rotors/pads
1 front U-joint
1 front hub bearing.

He said to do the other hub bearing at the same time would be an extra $210
I said go ahead, and also do the other u-joint as well ($30 part + labor)

So, this all will be about $1000.
(Muffler, 2 front rotors/pads, 2 front u-joints, 2 front hub/bearings)
Does this seem reasonable?

Incidentally, hub bearings seem to have a massive price swing.
I see some for $30 and others for $250.
What is the right ballpark price for a new wheel/hub bearing?

 

if you did it yourself you could have all that done for under 150 bucks.

 

Just get timken wheel bearings.

 

Way out of my league. I'm just a driveway "remove and replace" in your driveway type of guy. I have no one who can show me real mechanics.

If you ask me, suspension work is way out of reach for the basic driveway DIY'er

There is very little information about this area of mechanics online.
If there is a write-up, you don't even know what you're looking at. It's spaghetti. The suspension is under the car. You never see it. It's hard to even know what you're looking it. Even the terminology is not agreed on. Most forum people have no idea what's involved with this area of DIY, compared to other things like under the hood.

It also involves blow torches and major rust issues to get unstuck. Sometimes, a DIY job gets halted in its place with a frozen bolt, and you need to punt to a pro. I just can't imagine having the wheels off and getting stuck. The car can't even be towed.

It also helps if you have a lift instead of a weekend guy with jack stands.

There are special tools needed (picklefork, ball joint tool, bench vice, etc)
It really requires a true garage space, not a driveway.

This are a few reasons why I am not anywhere close to trying suspension work. I leave that for the pros.

By the way, I don't even change a SPARK PLUG without having 48 hours free. Always work on Saturday, and leave Sunday wide open if needed.
What says "15 mins" on the forum means 2-4 hours for a beginner.

 

I second that. My '96 was loud as hell because both of my front bearings were shot. I had to get my u-joints done cause they were popping, so I had the brakes and bearings all done at the same time. Got the Timken's, Jeep is now as quiet as it probably was the day it rolled off the line.


Edit: And for reference, parts and labor to do both front bearings, u-joints, rotors, pads, rear drums, shoes, and hardware kit, was all together around $1000. I ordered all the parts online myself (mechanic even told me to, as he said the owner [who is at the main shop and not the satellite that my mechanic runs] marks the parts up way too much). Good luck man!

Told you that pristine '96 was not a ripoff @ $4200. (lol)

P.S. I also don't have a garage and only limited tools, so doing the work outside, in Winter up here in Northern Minnesota is also very hard for me. Don't feel bad about taking it to the shop. Sometimes the money you pay someone to get it done right is worth avoiding the frustration and worry, bro.

 

Can you list what brands you got for each:
And where you ordered them all from?

bearings = Timken
u-joints = ?
rotors = ?
pads = ?