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Thinking of buying a Jeep Cherokee Sport

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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #16  
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From: Summerville, South Carolina
Year: 99
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I had this jeep 4.0, no rust at all, 139xxx miles, no problems, new paint job, 4x4. I was asking $3,200
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 03:09 PM
  #17  
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Year: 1998
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FYI, the 1996 was sold to another buyer for $4200.
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 09:44 PM
  #18  
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Year: 1998
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Checking out another one tomorrow:

1998 XJ. 4.0L. 125k miles. Asking $3000.
Owned by a mechanic (all fluids done, etc)
Very decent interior and exterior. Adult owned.
This is a strong contender!!

Hits all the major criteria we've discussed!!
1) Minimal rust
2) under 125k miles
3) Good adult owner
4) 4.0L
5) Fair price (Under $4000)
6) 1998-1999
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 10:02 PM
  #19  
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I can't say about the 96-99 Sports, but I own a '93 Cherokee Sport and have had it for about 7 years. I've got about 228k original miles on it right now, and most all the original parts have been replaced. I'm very novice when it comes to working on cars, but can do simple things like oil changes and fuel filter changes. I learned how to do a water pump change and master cylinder change on my Jeep (both were first times for me), and both were fairly simple.

I have the 4.0 I6 engine in mine and was advised to get that before I bought my Jeep. I have been really happy with the overall performance. A tow truck driver once told me that "a Jeep will take a hit" regarding a car accident, and that's also important to me, because I'm normally a "truck girl", so my Jeep is the smallest vehicle I've ever owned.

All in all, I love my Jeep...about the only complaint I have is that it is a rough ride when the back is empty...that, and no cupholders. But if I'm carrying a ton of stuff in the back, the ride smooths out nicely. My Sport has done everything I've ever asked it to do, and I would definitely own another one.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 05:36 AM
  #20  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by Dark Angel
and most all the original parts have been replaced.
Can you list the things you've had replaced?
Sounds like a lot!
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 05:46 AM
  #21  
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From: PA KOTUFU!
Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
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The '98 is a very good year. I have 2 of them.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 06:04 AM
  #22  
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99 is gonna be your best best. (double check late year 99) for the bad head(0331).

Newer body style
C.8.25 29spline over the D35 or 27spline 8.25
Hp D30 over the Low pinion D30 and vac 4x4
Not the bad head.
Cup holders

The 99's have the (generally) most desirable parts.

Good luck on your search.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 11:41 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by luckyAD80
Don't get any 00-01 XJs. They're prone to having a cracked head. I got one. It's a ***** to go about fixing it. Go with the 96.
Don't listen to this advice. YES, they are more prone to a cracked head due to weaker casting, BUT if you get a good deal, don't pass on it.

I have a 2000 with the 0331 head. 143,000 miles on it and no signs of slowing down... but I also remember to spray out my radiator fins after going mudding, and I MAINTAIN my vehicle.

Does that mean it won't crack someday? No. Could happen tomorrow for all I know. But spending five to six hundred dollars on a new head is worth it since my 00 XJ is clean, fun to drive and dead reliable in any other case.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 12:34 PM
  #24  
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From: Grand Haven, Michigan
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by bheath
99 is gonna be your best best. (double check late year 99) for the bad head(0331).

Newer body style
C.8.25 29spline over the D35 or 27spline 8.25
Hp D30 over the Low pinion D30 and vac 4x4
Not the bad head.
Cup holders

The 99's have the (generally) most desirable parts.

Good luck on your search.

1999 FTW! - but i had a 91 with the 4.0 H.O. and that thing was the shizzle.....if it was not taken over by rust..i would trade my 99 for a solid 91 anyday....

the older ones seemed way faster....nothing like the sound of a h.o. hitting
5000 rpms with a flowmaster.....: thumbup:
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 77olds
Don't listen to this advice. YES, they are more prone to a cracked head due to weaker casting, BUT if you get a good deal, don't pass on it.

I have a 2000 with the 0331 head. 143,000 miles on it and no signs of slowing down... but I also remember to spray out my radiator fins after going mudding, and I MAINTAIN my vehicle.

Does that mean it won't crack someday? No. Could happen tomorrow for all I know. But spending five to six hundred dollars on a new head is worth it since my 00 XJ is clean, fun to drive and dead reliable in any other case.
I agree with this sentiment. It's one repair that MAY happen. For me, it might be moot, b/c I see a better Jeep that's a 98, so I might go for it. If I had few options, and needed something fast, I'd go for a 2000 and deal with the head if it ever came up.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 01:54 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bheath

Newer body style (Why is this better?)
  • C.8.25 29spline over the D35 or 27spline 8.25
  • Hp D30 over the Low pinion D30 and vac 4x4
Can you explain what each of those mean, and why they're better than 1998?
Thanks!
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper

Can you explain what each of those mean, and why they're better than 1998?
Thanks!
Newer body style has a steel hatch plus cup holders and 'to me' a nicer interior.

The C8.25 is the rear axle. Its stronger than a Dana35 and the 99 models have the 29 spline axle shafts which is stronger than the 27 spline shafts found in the 8.25 of (pre 96?) xj's.

The HP D30 is a high pinion front axle. It has higher clearance than its brother the low pinion (LP) D30. I believe it has stronger internals too but i can't remember for sure.

And with a 99, the chances are better than the older models of having lower mileage. My personal opinion though.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Ok, thanks. What does the cracked head cost to repair? Ballpark.

I really want to stick to:
1) Minimal rust
2) under 125k
3) Good adult owner
4) 4.0L
5) Fair price (Under $4000)
6) 1996-1999 (Is there a best year?)

I have seen a couple, but none hit every criteria.
There seem to be plenty of these around, so I think it's wise to be patient.
Cost of the new head from clearwater cylindr head is 475.00. Plus head gasket and about 500 shop labor. Just replaced mine on a 2000 xj. 150k, the head gasket blew, th head was ok but I didnt want to put the old one back on.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 07:14 PM
  #29  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Can you explain what each of those mean, and why they're better than 1998?
Thanks!
Originally Posted by bheath
Newer body style has a steel hatch plus cup holders and 'to me' a nicer interior.

The C8.25 is the rear axle. Its stronger than a Dana35 and the 99 models have the 29 spline axle shafts which is stronger than the 27 spline shafts found in the 8.25 of (pre 96?) xj's.

The HP D30 is a high pinion front axle. It has higher clearance than its brother the low pinion (LP) D30. I believe it has stronger internals too but i can't remember for sure.

And with a 99, the chances are better than the older models of having lower mileage. My personal opinion though.

Basically, all of this means nothing to you if you never plan to off-road it. Not to discredit heath cause he's right, it just doesn't seem to meet a single one of your needs.

98 is a good year. I've been pleased with mine. Especially for the 1600 bucks I paid for it. I did buy it with a few known "issues" though. Some of which are still there, others I've taken care of.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by zimdogg

Basically, all of this means nothing to you if you never plan to off-road it. Not to discredit heath cause he's right, it just doesn't seem to meet a single one of your needs.

98 is a good year. I've been pleased with mine. Especially for the 1600 bucks I paid for it. I did buy it with a few known "issues" though. Some of which are still there, others I've taken care of.
Your right, but the way i see it, its better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
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