I've googled and searched on here a bit and can not find what the oil
Capacity for my 87 cherokee Laredo straight 6cyl believed to be 2.8 liter
Engine is. Can anyone inform?

 

If it's a straight 6, which an 87 should be, the capacity when changing oil and filter is 6 quarts.

Be sure to use a good quality filter like Wix or Napa Gold.

 

I got a cheapy 5 dollar one from advance auto... How big of a problem is that? Will it just
Wear out sooner?


I replaced my valve cover gasket yesterday and when I busted out the sockets
I realized every single bolt holding on my valve cover was loose to the point I was
Able to loose the bolts with my fingers. Is this a common issue or just the signs
Of an idiot working on it last. The valve cover seal was leaking a bunch and still
Had to be busted of the engine even though the bolts were loose. Anyone else
Experience issues like that before?

 

Cheap oil filters can cause oil starvation at start-up because of the orientation of the filters on a 4.0.
Spend a buck or 2 more.....

Oh, and since you've got an 87 and seem to want to correct issues with it, click on the pink link in my signature for some tips.

 

Your 1987 inline six is actually a 4.0L (241.5 cubic inches, AMC-built engine,) which takes six quarts for an oil & filter change.

The 2.8 litre V6 (171cid) is a Chevrolet engine used 1984-1986, and the single best upgrade for it is two bags of ready-mix and a long chain (and then give it to your buddy with a boat. It makes a nice anchor.)

Avoid the use of API "Energy Saving" oil, as it is formulated for use with roller tappets and will wipe out the feet on your tappets and cam lobes (and it often does so rather quickly!) Look at the back of the bottle, make sure it says "API Service SM" or earlier (SL, SJ, ...) in order to have the proper additives. If you cannot find anything but the API "Energy Saving" oil (this will be indicated on the front label, and the rondel on the rear will have "API Service SN",) then stock up on GM's Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) or similar. The newer oil lacks the organometallic antiscuff additives needed to preserve the high-load friction surfaces between the tappet feet and camshaft lobes.

Treat this point as important!

 

What brand is it? $5 isn't extremely cheap (there are some $2 oil filters out there), but isn't top of the line either. If it is something like a Purolator Classic you should be fine as long as you change the oil in 3,000 mi. If it is a Fram get something else those are absolute garbage.

 

Well stated and very true.