So my XJ is off the road for a bit until after the holidays when I can afford to get new insurance, registration, inspection etc and I decided to seize the down time and start painting it. I'm using fast drying krylon rattle can and I scuffed the paint real good with 80 grit paper. I cleaned all the dust really well and wiped it many times. I go to spray the hood and the paint starts to get little spots in it that get bigger and it wont adhere very well. So I thought maybe I did not dry it well enough, wiped it off and really put some effort into wiping the surface down try it again and BAM same thing and the nose clip is even worse won't even stick with the lightest of coats. I've never had this issue before and don't know what to do , Does anyone have any advice?

 

It's fisheyeing due to grease, oil, silicone products,etc... Clean the area with some Lacquer thinner and a primer wouldn't hurt...

 

Yes thanks for the reply i just found out the same info by doing some more research on google its just hard to find info on something when you do not have a proper name or term for. I can tell you i did clean this surface very well and there was no grease or anything of the sort used all i used was water in a brand new spray bottle and some shop paper towels to wipe the surface. I wiped everything down 3 times before spraying and inch of it. As far as primer i have not had any issues in the past and the can says they suggest it but its not required. I did try using some primer and it did the same thing.

 

Yea the primer will fisheye as well until the contaminants are gone.... Prep is key when paining and you should really always clean the surface with thinner to prevent this and promote adhesion... It's cheap and easy to do. It could have been caused by almost anything and doesn't have to a been real recent. Armor all, wax, polish, greasy hands in the past from working on the jeep, Overspray from aerosol lubricants, etc... even mudholes with water from road runoff can cause it.

Remember that water and oil don't mix, so cleaning with water will not remove the contminants causing the fisheyeing.

 

So will any type of thinner work and how much should i use and how should i go about applying it?

 

Paint thinner will work but I prefer lacquer thinner as it's a little more potent and does a better job... Just put it on a clean rag (just enough to dampin it) and wipe over it really well and then get another rag and do it all again just to be sure

Whatever you do, don't use any metal on metal like brushes, etc.. on it with the thinner cause it's highly flammable!! You don't want to produce any sparks or smoke while doing it.

Also you may want to wear a glove as it can irritate the skin if you're not used to it. Don't get the cheap thin latex gloves as it will dissolve them quick. Get the chemical resistant ones or the yellow dish gloves work really well. I've been doing it for 20 years so it doesn't faze me anymore...lol

 

Well sir I must say thank you, you learn something new everyday ill go out tomorrow and grab some thinner, i also just tried goo gone on the dried spots and that works good as well. So i think i will goo gone the spots that are already under the paint then thin the rest that i have not painted and call it a day it only has to look good from a far lol its just a trail rig/ DD. Thanks again for all your help!

 

Thinner may bring it down to bare metal if you use too much or go too deep and you'll need to re-prime if this occurs.
A lot of times the same thing you are describing will happen if the surface is not completely dry. Even if it is a little damp it will happen as well. I'm assuming there are no contaminants on the top of your hood.

 

It was cleaned pretty well im gonna try using some fine grit paper like 200-250 clean the impurities and then use some thinner and re spray and see how that goes.

 

Gotta bring it way past 220 grit. 1000 grit wet sand would be better. With 220, you'll see scratch marks in your new paint.
Use a sanding block on the flat spots, and a section of pool noodle with the sand paper on it for the curved areas. It will keep you from making ridges in the paint with your fingers.
Personally, I'd use 220, blow it off, then some 400, blow it off, then 1000. Blow it off again real good, wipe it down with thinner then a tack cloth (can pick up anywhere that sells auto body stuff) Then paint. Several light coats is better than fewer heavy coats.
No, I don't do this for a living, but I took body shop in high school, and have used what I learned then on several cars over the years. Almost forgot. If you do get little areas of orange peel while you're painting, don't worry too much about it. You can wait till the paint is cured, and wet sand that area again with the 1k grit, blow it off, hit it with the tack cloth and respray. Only for orange peel though. With fisheye, you'll have to restart. Wear clean rubber gloves during the tack cloth process so you don't get the oil from your hands on your nice clean paint.

 

thanks for posting something, i almost had a heart attack when he said he was spraying over 80 grit scratches....


i dunno where to start, first off you didnt need to prime the hood unless you "burnt" through the layers of paint. Primer is only used as a barrier to prevent the basecoat/clearcoat from "pulling" (sort of seeing the rings underneath)

i really dont understand what exactly you are trying to achieve here....hood was all pealing? just scratched? deep scratches down to metal....there are so many ways you could go about fixing something like that...

as far as what the poster i quoted said its mostly sound advice.....rattle can paint is thin so i would use a MINIMUM of 600 grit before i sprayed over it so it fills in the scraches, personally i would use 800.....

as far as wiping it down to clean it, DO NOT USE LACQUER THINNER!!!! it will just cause problems and could actually destroy whats already on the car....

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=prep+all this stuff is made to do EXACTLY that and not react with anything in the process


......and yes, i do autobody for a living


post some pics of what you got going on and i'll try and aid you in the right direction

 

80 grit and straight to putting paint on? Holy crap! There will be A LOT of sanding marks coming through the paint. 80 grit is for rough sanding body filler and removing lots of material, not for lightly scuffing the surface.

 

.....first. Use some 220 man. Second. Wash it with some dish detergent (dawn) and water. That will get rid of the grease and wax. Third. How cold is the hood? Paint wont stick when the metal is freezing.

 

Yea, i realize that now haha good thing i only did it very lightly. once i did 2 coats it was fine.

 

Thanks for the advice, im not by ANY means a body guy i do suspension and mechanical ONLY so this is by far the biggest painting job i have ever done. I never new there was purpose built cleaner i'd much rather opt for that. And i'm painting because this rig was thrashed something fierce by the PO the paint is so nasty and beat up there was no saving it i tried to restore it without going this route but it was all a no go. So in the light of what i use this XJ for i just opted to spray bomb it decently and call it a day its cheap and fixable if it gets damaged.