Moved, this is not fab...

 

Actually this is correct.

The quality of speaker has nothing to do with the ohm rating of the speaker. Generally speaking the better the speaker the more wattage it will handle without melting the voice coil. But as I said a higher rated speaker does not make it louder.

The amplifier supplies the wattage to move the coil in the speaker. So if you have an amplifier(or deck) that puts out 50 watts with a 4ohm load and a speaker that is rated at 500 watts and is a 4 ohm speaker. Together that speaker will only be able to put out 50 watts of audio power.

Now ohm ratings and wattage. The said amplifier from above hypothetically will produce 100 watts with a 2 ohm load and 25watts with an 8 ohm load. These are ballpark numbers but in most situations that's how it works. When you lower the ohm rating(resistance to current flow) the wattage capability increases. Now more wattage means more work for the amplifier and more heat generated by the rectified stage of the amp. So if the amplifier is only rated for a 4ohm load and you run it lower there is a high probability of failure.

Parallel wiring. All positives together and all negatives together. Two 8 ohm speakers wired this way will give you a 4 ohm load.8+8=4 4+4=2 2+2=1...

Series wiring. Amp+ to speaker 1 +, speaker one - to speaker two +, speaker 2 - to amplifier -. Two 8 ohm speakers wired in this manor will give you a 16 ohm load.2+2=4 4+4=8 8+8=16...


I don't mean to rant but the spread of bad information that could potentially cost people money really bothers me.

 

The reason I was thinking it wouldn't hurt things... jeep wired my front factory speakers parallel from what I can tell. The two 3.5 or wtf size they are under the dash and my front factory door speakers are wired together.

 

With the factory deck you might get away with it because they are really low wattage radios. You might be working with less than a 100 watts total from all four channels. But when moving to an after market deck you should read in the manual the recommended ohm load per channel and work off that. Generally now a days most supermarket decks are running ~50 watts a channel and are four channels. Adding a small two channel amp to running another set of speakers isn't much work. It will sound a tone better that way as well. Properly tuned a system with 50 watts per speaker and a small sub can do some serious damage to your ear holes.

 

If you check the ohm load of those factory speakers I bet you will get some very odd numbers. They also engineer the factory decks and speakers as a system so they will work together. Not necessarily appropriate for other applications.

 

Well that is crappy.... prob 8ohm speakers then? The po took the factory jensons out of the door and I've never seen the factory deck. Btw isn't that 50 watts max.per channel? Thinkin most aftermarket decks run around 22rms and factory like 8-12 rms. And no I have never seen an aftermarket deck that says it can.run 2 ohm load. I have had my deck hooked up like that to the front speakers for a while no prob. Have pioneers in the dots. Guess.its time for me to take a look at the little speakers under the dash. I cobbled the stereo together anyways..... my days of fosgate amps and alpine decks and cerwin vega subs etc. Sorta fizzled when I started.gettin stuff stolen. One day when I get some extra money together maybe ill get back into that hifi stuff. Luckily I do still have a pair of cerwin vega subs :-D

 

Just to clarify for some people, in some rigs (Laredos?) There are 4 channels from the factory head unit. Up front there are two sets of 5.25"s on the door and 1" tweeters in the kick panel. In the back there are 5.25"s in the trunk hatch.

 

Yup.... mines like that. It's a laredo