BreakOut

Well my D35 rear axle is done for but i could still possible repair it. The carrier is completely f-ed up and all i would need is a carrier that is trac-lok to fix mine. But as i have been reading through the older threads on here is that most people say to go ahead and just use that as an excuse to replace my axle to a chrysler 8.25.

One of the major questions i have is how long would this process be? Is it worth is and what parts would i need? Did they also make these rear ends with the trac lok carriers in them?

All help would be greatly appreciated and im hoping to have my jeep up and running again by this weekend if possible.

Thanks guys!

BreakOut

I think i might have put this in the wrong section so if a MOD feels like it is please feel free to transfer it to the right one. Thanks!

jeepkid46

The 8.25 is a direct bolt in and a 96+ will have stronger shafts no just a stock carrier and do you mind tellung me what you use it for

Irongrave

all 8.25s are open axles. you will lose your ABS. to swap them out you need new u bolts and plates the 8.25 is a thicker axles. and you might as well redo the rear brakes because you need to take the parking brake cable out of the dana 35

BreakOut

Well as far as the abuse my jeep would take is just snow bogging, mud running and bogging but i havent been able to find trails with rocks and etc.

And as far as ABS i am not worried one bit as i already lost it before i got the jeep. The person before me took out the ABS so that is one less thing to worry about. And also one more thing that i do not have is the parking brake. That is gone alone with the handle on my center console. So now that you guys know those two things what will i need in parts? Would i need the drive shaft out of the donor or can i use the one i have now? And i already have semi new u-bolts on my jeep as i had to redo the center pins in my leaf packs.

Irongrave

you cant reuse U-bolts and the dana 35 islike 2.5 in axle tube the 8.25 is a 3in tube so you need wider u-bolts. I don't know on the drive shaft if you can get a doner shaft if your stock on is too short.


to saw out the axle you need to undo the brake line splitter on the axle, un do the drive-shaft at the axle unbolt the shocks from the axle and the 4 u-bolts then put it all back together again

jeepkid46

You can use the same driveshaft and i would say to get a newer 8.25 cause it has larger shafts

BreakOut

Alright thank for the tips. Guess im gonna be stopping for some new u bolts and i think that might be all i need. Is the bolt pattern the same on a 8.25 axle? And how about all the brake lines? Will they all just screw right in?

And as far of a axle i did find a 8.25 from a 98 jeep at a junkyard but im not sure what gears it might have.

Irongrave

if its an auto its got 3:55s most likely. what you can do is spin the axle and count the pinion. ie 1 revolution of the axle should spin the pinion 3.5 times or something like that

BreakOut

I found the tag thats on the differential off my jeep and it said 3 55 right on it and i also decoded the code on the ring on the carrier and it came out to 3 55 as well. I really hope finding a 355 geared 8.25 axle is not gonna be a pain in the rear.

Irongrave

its not almost every auto XJ has 3:55s

BreakOut

So would this 98 jeep cherokee limited at the junkyard i found most likely have 3:55 gears? And is 150 plus core charge good as a price?

Thanks for all the help once again.

Irongrave

thats not a bad price, I paid $250 for mine with a locker in it.

BreakOut

Well thats no fair haha. Wish i could find a deal like that around me somewhere.

jeepkid46

Bolt pattern will match brake lines will match if its not a tow package it will most likely be a 3.55 and just check the tag