New to the Jeep World.
#1
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New to the Jeep World.
Alright. For starters, i am new to the Jeep world and after long and hard considerations, am considering purchasing an XJ. I was into the hotrod scene, but realized quickly (with 2 kids) that the hotrod scene is not very utilitarian. So, Jeeps came to mind immediately. After a lot of research, i decided that when i do purchase my XJ, a 3"-4" lift would be the perfect ride height for me, as well as handle all the offroading that i will be doing. This is more than just lift questions so i figured this was the right place to post it.
Question 1: New to lifting. Is there anything i need to do pre-lift kit?
Question 2: After research, it seems obvious to me the long arm lift kit is the way to go. I am currently looking into the Rough Country 4.5" Long arm kit. Thoughts, recommendations comment? Is it a pain to install? Can a first timer such as myself do this in a weekend?
Question 3: It says recommended tire size 33s. With fender trimming 35's will fit no issues, am i correct?
Question 4: What purchase will i need to include in lifting this? Obvious purchases are a SLE, a rear CV driveshaft, a trac bar, sway bar disconnects, a and a steering stabilizer, as well as an alignment and CV joint replacements for good ride and no DW. Is there anything else? What brands are tried and true? Best sway bar disconnects (i hear rough country's are jank)?
Question 5: The un-killable 4.0! What is a safe bore for this engine that will not cause to thin of a sidewall? Never bored one out before so idk its limitations. I could Google this but would prefer experiences over a Google search.
Question 6: Other power adders. Superchargers, turbochargers. What do we have in the aftermarket that we can use? I saw that the TJ's have a supercharger for the 4.0 (i believe it is Edelbrock), is it compatible to the 4.0 we have. I would believe so, but i have seen weirder stuff happen.
Question 7: Any general issues with the XJ's i should know about?
Question 8: Moving to Norfolk,VA. Any good wheeling spots i should know about? Groups? Parts stores?
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
Question 1: New to lifting. Is there anything i need to do pre-lift kit?
Question 2: After research, it seems obvious to me the long arm lift kit is the way to go. I am currently looking into the Rough Country 4.5" Long arm kit. Thoughts, recommendations comment? Is it a pain to install? Can a first timer such as myself do this in a weekend?
Question 3: It says recommended tire size 33s. With fender trimming 35's will fit no issues, am i correct?
Question 4: What purchase will i need to include in lifting this? Obvious purchases are a SLE, a rear CV driveshaft, a trac bar, sway bar disconnects, a and a steering stabilizer, as well as an alignment and CV joint replacements for good ride and no DW. Is there anything else? What brands are tried and true? Best sway bar disconnects (i hear rough country's are jank)?
Question 5: The un-killable 4.0! What is a safe bore for this engine that will not cause to thin of a sidewall? Never bored one out before so idk its limitations. I could Google this but would prefer experiences over a Google search.
Question 6: Other power adders. Superchargers, turbochargers. What do we have in the aftermarket that we can use? I saw that the TJ's have a supercharger for the 4.0 (i believe it is Edelbrock), is it compatible to the 4.0 we have. I would believe so, but i have seen weirder stuff happen.
Question 7: Any general issues with the XJ's i should know about?
Question 8: Moving to Norfolk,VA. Any good wheeling spots i should know about? Groups? Parts stores?
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.
#3
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Year: 1990
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Just build a stroker motor.
#4
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1. Yes a complete front end inspection for worn parts a must do, then a TRE upgrade to at least a mid 90's V-8 GC setup much stronger and HD.
2. First the RC lifts are known for not the best of quality all parts made in China. Look at Rustys Off Road all made in NA and reasonable and there are better quality kits with higher costs. Anytime you go above a 3" lift all cost go way up with the other things needed but 4 1/2" is the min. needed for a long arm kit. For all that needs to be done I would not count on doing it in a weekend for a first time lift take your time so you don't break fasteners.
3. True, I have a 4 1/2" lift and run both 33's and a set of 35's with trimmed fenders and also important the proper wheels for both I run a 15x8" wheel with 3.75" of BS on the 33's and 4" on the 35's. the 3.75 would have fine on both but bought the beadlocks used and they were all 4".
4.I think you meant an SYE, then Adj. Upper and Lower CA's, Dbl. Shear Track Bar and the most important are new gears and lockers a must have for larger tires.
5. Stroke it or do a swap.
All the rest just do a search here.
2. First the RC lifts are known for not the best of quality all parts made in China. Look at Rustys Off Road all made in NA and reasonable and there are better quality kits with higher costs. Anytime you go above a 3" lift all cost go way up with the other things needed but 4 1/2" is the min. needed for a long arm kit. For all that needs to be done I would not count on doing it in a weekend for a first time lift take your time so you don't break fasteners.
3. True, I have a 4 1/2" lift and run both 33's and a set of 35's with trimmed fenders and also important the proper wheels for both I run a 15x8" wheel with 3.75" of BS on the 33's and 4" on the 35's. the 3.75 would have fine on both but bought the beadlocks used and they were all 4".
4.I think you meant an SYE, then Adj. Upper and Lower CA's, Dbl. Shear Track Bar and the most important are new gears and lockers a must have for larger tires.
5. Stroke it or do a swap.
All the rest just do a search here.
Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; 01-02-2016 at 11:36 AM.
#5
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Thread Starter
Perfect. This is the help I was really looking for thank you. i may do a 3" lift instead just to lessen the wallet blow.
1. Yes a complete front end inspection for worn parts a must do, then a TRE upgrade to at least a mid 90's V-8 GC setup much stronger and HD.
2. First the RC lifts are known for not the best of quality all parts made in China. Look at Rustys Off Road all made in NA and reasonable and there are better quality kits with higher costs. Anytime you go above a 3" lift all cost go way up with the other things needed but 4 1/2" is the min. needed for a long arm kit. For all that needs to be done I would not count on doing it in a weekend for a first time lift take your time so you don't break fasteners.
3. True, I have a 4 1/2" lift and run both 33's and a set of 35's with trimmed fenders and also important the proper wheels for both I run a 15x8" wheel with 3.75" of BS on the 33's and 4" on the 35's. the 3.75 would have fine on both but bought the beadlocks used and they were all 4".
4.I think you meant an SYE, then Adj. Upper and Lower CA's, Dbl. Shear Track Bar and the most important are new gears and lockers a must have for larger tires.
5. Stroke it or do a swap.
All the rest just do a search here.
2. First the RC lifts are known for not the best of quality all parts made in China. Look at Rustys Off Road all made in NA and reasonable and there are better quality kits with higher costs. Anytime you go above a 3" lift all cost go way up with the other things needed but 4 1/2" is the min. needed for a long arm kit. For all that needs to be done I would not count on doing it in a weekend for a first time lift take your time so you don't break fasteners.
3. True, I have a 4 1/2" lift and run both 33's and a set of 35's with trimmed fenders and also important the proper wheels for both I run a 15x8" wheel with 3.75" of BS on the 33's and 4" on the 35's. the 3.75 would have fine on both but bought the beadlocks used and they were all 4".
4.I think you meant an SYE, then Adj. Upper and Lower CA's, Dbl. Shear Track Bar and the most important are new gears and lockers a must have for larger tires.
5. Stroke it or do a swap.
All the rest just do a search here.
#6
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#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Who says you can't be in the "Hot Rod" scene with a family, room for all in mine along with grocery's in the back. They all laugh when we pull to the line on drag radials through exhaust till I leave 9.40's in the 1/4.
Notice the Handicap license plate its mine and street legal lol.
Notice the Handicap license plate its mine and street legal lol.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Who says you can't be in the "Hot Rod" scene with a family, room for all in mine along with grocery's in the back. They all laugh when we pull to the line on drag radials through exhaust till I leave 9.40's in the 1/4. Notice the Handicap license plate its mine and street legal lol.
My buddy used to have a 4th gen Malibu 2D that was one hell of a sleeper. He surprised a whole lot people with that car.
#9
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Model: Cherokee
Take a look at this lift chart https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ scroll down to post 8 its bigger and easier to read.
#10
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Who says you can't be in the "Hot Rod" scene with a family, room for all in mine along with grocery's in the back. They all laugh when we pull to the line on drag radials through exhaust till I leave 9.40's in the 1/4.
Notice the Handicap license plate its mine and street legal lol.
Notice the Handicap license plate its mine and street legal lol.
#11
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Take a look at this lift chart https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/nk...-chart-211878/ scroll down to post 8 its bigger and easier to read.
#12
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If you get time start a build threat on here if you want.Honestly the power adders vs price your better off stroker it or v8 swap,There is swap parts for a chevy small block or the ls family and both of of those can make huge numbers cheaper then the 4.0 can.
#13
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Will do. this will be my first time working on a 4x4 and anything with a lift... but i plan on getting something new every check. Once i make the initial purchase of my XJ of course. Im evem getting some little things now, like an LED light bar (since most of my offroading will be at night) and jank like that. trying to talk my neighbor out of a futon frame. It has a caged bottom, and with a little chopping and cutting will make a great roof rack, and its not too heavy. It looks kinda like a bunk bed top. Its heavier then your standard roof racks, but not heavy enough to worry about roof integrity. If i could ****** it off the guy for like forty bucks that would be great. Then use unistrut and U-Bolts to make the roof rail attachments. A simple, light budget roof rack.
Last edited by Michael Huffstutler; 01-05-2016 at 12:13 AM.
#14
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 liter inline 6
Will do. this will be my first time working on a 4x4 and anything with a lift... but i plan on getting something new every check. Once i make the initial purchase of my XJ of course. Im evem getting some little things now, like an LED light bar (since most of my offroading will be at night) and jank like that. trying to talk my neighbor out of a futon frame. It has a caged bottom, and with a little chopping and cutting will make a great roof rack, and its not too heavy. It looks kinda like a bunk bed top. Its heavier then your standard roof racks, but not heavy enough to worry about roof integrity. If i could ****** it off the guy for like forty bucks that would be great. Then use unistrut and U-Bolts to make the roof rail attachments. A simple, light budget roof rack.
#15
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I appreciate that, i will definitely have to do some site digging now! Have you heard anything about how durable they were or were not? I suppose if i use 3x unistrut bars for framing and attaching them to the stock roof rails that would definitely increase the strength. I love budget builds. It brings out the creativity in people.