My jeep is a crumble rust bucket...in one spot
...let me just start by saying that this was how it was given to me. Yes, my father gave me his old 99 xj with cosmetic neglect.
The biggest eye sore and problem I need to address is the rear passenger side panel over the wheel well (fender some would say) he gave it to me with rot and it's since gotten worse(probably from the bumps from wheeling+ mud cover.
I know the panel is available to purchase and replace with a few bolts and some spot welding, but I would like to chip away at the rust and rebuild it... My question is; with what? Don't worry, I'm artistic, a perfectionist, and good with fabrication.... Here's the damage.. It's nasty...
Once I get a few opinions I'll start with the process of rebuilding the fender, and I'll post pics to show how it comes out..
The biggest eye sore and problem I need to address is the rear passenger side panel over the wheel well (fender some would say) he gave it to me with rot and it's since gotten worse(probably from the bumps from wheeling+ mud cover.
I know the panel is available to purchase and replace with a few bolts and some spot welding, but I would like to chip away at the rust and rebuild it... My question is; with what? Don't worry, I'm artistic, a perfectionist, and good with fabrication.... Here's the damage.. It's nasty...
Once I get a few opinions I'll start with the process of rebuilding the fender, and I'll post pics to show how it comes out..
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
that's not rot. that's just a bit of surface rust that is bubbling the paint. our vehicles up here get rot.
remove flare and hit it with a flap disc. remove all loose paint. if the metal is pitted, use some filler or glazing putty, sand and primer/paint.
looks like the door area may be a bit more, but yeah, same steps. maybe a sand blaster can get in the nooks and crannies.
worse case, you may have to replace a bit of metal.
remove flare and hit it with a flap disc. remove all loose paint. if the metal is pitted, use some filler or glazing putty, sand and primer/paint.
looks like the door area may be a bit more, but yeah, same steps. maybe a sand blaster can get in the nooks and crannies.
worse case, you may have to replace a bit of metal.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok, that one shows some rot.
i would start by just replacing the fender, find a clean one and a few bolts later, it looks like new.
the rest may be a bit of a challenge.
i would start by just replacing the fender, find a clean one and a few bolts later, it looks like new.
the rest may be a bit of a challenge.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: Williston, North Dakota
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I did nearly the same thing once, it seemed that after 6-7 months it separated from the metal, maybe because of unibody flex.
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Originally Posted by Dan91
It's in the rear, so no easy replacement.
I did nearly the same thing once, it seemed that after 6-7 months it separated from the metal, maybe because of unibody flex.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 976
Likes: 5
From: Cloquet, MN
Year: 2000 Ltd.
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If you want to get it back to original looking condition I think you have three options: a) you mentioned aftermarket new panels are available so you could get one; b) cut up a JY donor and weld in the replacement section or; c) piece it together manually with sheet metal. I had a subaru with the rear quarter doing something similar and ended up going option b so I didn't have to make the curves.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: CALGARY AB, CANADA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Replace the metal DO NOT just fill it with bondo. Bondo is great if it stays less then 1/8th thick. Cut out the old metal farther back then you need. Then tack new metal in its place being very careful not to over heat. Sheet metal warps easily, grind the welds and lick in a THIN layer of bondo, prime, paint to match.
Originally Posted by 2kcherokee
Replace the metal DO NOT just fill it with bondo. Bondo is great if it stays less then 1/8th thick. Cut out the old metal farther back then you need. Then tack new metal in its place being very careful not to over heat. Sheet metal warps easily, grind the welds and lick in a THIN layer of bondo, prime, paint to match.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 860
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From: middleburg fl
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
out of curiousity, have you pulled the carpet and checked the floors or gotten underneath it and really looked closely, id be suprised if that rust is all there is. also check out the cargo area floor as well. if you plan on lifting start soaking down all yer bolts now with pb blaster do it once a week till you are ready to start changeing parts
Last edited by kennzz05; Sep 11, 2012 at 01:29 PM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 492
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
out of curiousity, have you pulled the carpet and checked the floors or gotten underneath it and really looked closely, id be suprised if that rust is all there is. also check out the cargo area floor as well. if you plan on lifting start soaking down all yer bolts now with pb blaster do it once a week till you are ready to start changeing parts
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Alta Loma, CA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
bondo will crack on impact with rocks even if you had a slider, that is alot of body rot may possibly look into gettin another xj and wheeling this one to the ground
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