And to beat a dead horse some more don't buy the iron y. Iron rock makes some great products but their wierd fixed radious 3 link is not one of them. The caster set up is the weak point.

 

The Iron Rock kit does a great job. This is my buddy "Nuts&Bolts" From Tbaja.net and has been running the kit for a very long time on harder terrains and has nothing but good things to say about it:




I know what you're talking about with the 3-link being strange, although having seen what this kit can do (reliably for that matter) in person, I'm sold.

I will definitely never ever ever go with a Rough Country product again.

 

I installed the iron y on my buddies zj. It works but there are just better safer ways of doing things. That upper link is not really strong enough.

 

If it wasn't strong enough, people would break them and they wouldn't have the good name they do .

From those who actually run the kits, it has been and extremely safe and reliable performer.

 

They do break and iron rocks long arms have a terrible reputation based on the design. There are plenty of threads on this forum and many others saying just that.
Ask KTMRACER about the castor set up... I'm sure he would love to debate it for the 100th+ time people keep buying them because they are CHEAP. same thing with ROUGH COUNTRY.

There are better options in the same price range

 

For many other forum members here, that's the exact argument used FOR buying Iron Rock, so it's strange you use it AGAINST buying Iron Rock.

TNT are the top of the line too, and if you don't want the 3-link, go with them.

 

This is how I feel about long arms.
Best set up
Rubber bushings on one end
Johnny joints on the other(or other quality flex joints I like the new rk pro monster joints)
Upper Arms as close to the same length as lowers possible.
3link over 4 link over radius arms

Good mounting system that allows you to access the drive train without removing the control arms and is stout. Either a crossmember with link mounts or hd brackets that mount to the frame rails with crush sleeves.

Not sacrificing too much ground clearance is important too. Otherwise why not just run drop brackets.
What ever company can hit the most of these things as possible for the least amount of cash is what I'd go with.

 

Think if I had to choose between IRO and RC i'd go RC just because of how low IRO's arms hang. I do like Serious and B. Lee's long arm kits. Have to keep reminding myself I don't need it.

 

Put a flex joint in the upper mount on the axle side and set the caster and forget about it. Haven't had a problem with my iro arms.

 

That's the only issue I really have with iro set up. If you fix the castor crap then they are beef

 

Ive used and abused my IRO long arms for along time. They have been on for over 200 wheeling trips including most of the trails down in Moab. Ive had no problems whatsoever. The arms themselves are made of a thicker material than most out there. The perform very well. I actually like the castor adjustor. It works great and is super easy. I have seen ONE picture where a guy slid off a wall and the entire weight of his Jeep landed on the IRO subframe, bending it. Other than that, I haven't seen any complaints by people who run it.. just a bunch from dudes who spent alot more.

The only kit that I honestly think is worth spending more money on is the TNT customs kit. I might swap mine out for theirs soon. They are high clearance and that belly skid is awesome.

 

the TNT setup is nice but the belly pan is a huge pain in the ***. took me 7.395 times longer just to drop my front driveshaft, draining the trans without coating the whole pan in ATF is next to impossible. if i hadn got such a good deal on them id either run RK's 3 link or serious long arms
(still debating on installing the arms them selves or reselling the kit(pans currently installed)) ill more than likely end up modifying it to my likeing

 

So long story short here is there are pros and cons to every single kit and no one kit is the best for everyone.