Keep us posted! Looking forward to what you find.

 

Interested as well, i had to pull my fog-lights relay when I installed my HIDs as well, and I now want to use that switch to control some LED lights.

A true fix would be awesome, I assume it has to do with the reduced draw from running LED lights or a relay kit (I am using a relay kit wired straight to the battery for power, and using the stock headlight harness for the relay).

 

I put a diode on the high beam side of the relay coil. Didn't work. Tomorrow I'm going to play around with the value of the resistor inside the relay that is wired across the coil. I bought a spare relay in case I booger the one I'm playing with. Remember my goal is to keep the mod inside the relay case; plug and play, no external wiring mods.

 

Here's the fix:


Put a 68 ohm 1/8 watt resistor in the path of the red wire from the high beam plug to the fog lamp #1 relay coil. Put a 1N34A diode across the 68 ohm resistor, plus side of diode towards the headlamp. This can be done at the headlight or internally in the fog lamp relay #1 relay, which is kind of micro-surgery, but doable, all in the relay housing. Before I declare a total victory, I'm going to run it this way for a couple of days to be sure no problems arise. I'll try to put up some pics once I'm sure it's working for a day or two.

 

jw speakers work normal, no mods...its not a LED issue, something is weird with the TL's

 

they may have resistors built in. Would be interesting to see how much power each light draws and see if there are any measurable differences between the two. I personally have trucklite LEDs and they work great with no problems ever.

 

I know this sounds stupid but check and make sure your high beams on the blinker stick are off. Sounds like what mine were doing for a min. Figured that out.
Then they flickered a bit and I put a LED Decoder on and they work great now. (Beside the point)

 

Partial success on my diode/resistor fix. I have to shut the headlights off and on again to get the fog lights to work after turning on the brights. I think 68 ohm resistor has to go up to 75 ohms. Hold off on opening up your fog light relays until I get this right.


Cruzship 22, this decoder you speak of may be doing the same thing as my diode/resistor pack fix. I need to look into that.


Satirical Hen, That's interesting that your Truck Lites work on your 99 XJ out of the box. I need to check the S-103 ground path for the common terminal on my driver's side headlamp. I might have a bad ground. Imagine, after all this headbanging, a bad ground?

 

I had other led headlights before these too and they worked fine till the overheated and burned out, but no flickering or high beam problems or anything. And I've had similarly frustrating situations. I rebuilt a 100cc 2 stroke bike and I put it back together let it idle for like 15 minutes then tried revving it up to like 1/2 throttle. Died and wouldn't restart. Thought the carb was messed up or something since it died out with throttle. Changed the spark plug after like a week of cleaning and adjusting the carb and it fired up first kick.

 

Hey I know this is a pretty old thread, but just in case this comes up in someone's search on the issue the reason LED lights have this issue on the 97+ with fog lamps is due to how the system is designed. Basically the fog lamp relay is grounded through the drivers side high beam headlamp. When the high beam is off there is no power to the wiring so the relay grounds through the bulb itself, and when it's on there is power to both sides of the relay coil which breaks the circuit, and opens the relay. On the drivers side harness there is two red wires. One comes from the relay, and the other the multi function switch (high/low beam switch). The wire going to the relay needs cut to disable the fog lamp relay. If you want to keep them functioning you'll need to add an additional relay. You'll want to wire it with the coil to the head lamp, and use the normally closed contacts (87A) on the fog lamp side, and pin 30 to ground.

 

Darn, well I might just go the easy/lazy route and just wire my fog-light switch to my own standalone relay...