LED light bar mounting
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
10 in IIRC. As for your mounts, those are the design i was lookin to send ya. When you put the light bar between them, how much space is there. May have to go with steel for strength and to weld some steel to mount the light too. But your design is nice.
Cool thanks! And I actually came up with a new design which I think will work pretty well and look good too, I've gotta go pick up some aluminum on Monday but hopefully I'll have it done Monday, and I am gonna use a steel crossbeam to mount the actual light bar to with aluminum brackets and clamps on the sides
Theoretically it should be at least somewhat low profile cause I'm makin it so the bottom of the crossbeam is just a half inch above the top of the roof's curvature and how far back from the edge of the wondshield should it be to avoid glare? And any ideas for the wiring?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Theoretically it should be at least somewhat low profile cause I'm makin it so the bottom of the crossbeam is just a half inch above the top of the roof's curvature and how far back from the edge of the wondshield should it be to avoid glare? And any ideas for the wiring?
ok cool! Any good ways to run the wires from the roof into the engine bag to connect to the battery?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
Drill hole in roof above console, use silicone and grommet to seal. Run wires above sun visor and Down A pillar through main grommet in fire wall to battery. You'll have to Google search the roof grommets. I forgot who sells em.
WhAt is the wattage of the light bar.
WhAt is the wattage of the light bar.
I believe it is 230w and the only problem with that is that the harness with the relay and switch I have has a pretty large diameter connecter on the end, sorry to keep buggin ya but you know of a way without drilling?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
When i did my light bar, i cut the finished end off the light bar and redid them. You'll need at least 10 gauge wire for that with the length of run involved. As for not drilling, I've read people ran the wires behind the windshield holding but never seen that in person so i can't verify if that works
Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Manchester CT
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
im a glass tech, running it behind the molding will be fine, there is a ton of room underneath xj's moldings to run a wire, if a tech that was glue-happy hasnt replaced the window anyways. biggest concern doing it that way would be catching the wires on a stick or something wheeling. and for the love of god if you do that and have to have the windshield replaced tell the tech there are wires there!
Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Manchester CT
Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5 4 banger
You should be able to use anything, screwdriver, pencil, a stick, your finger, etc. The moldings are really flexible and as long as your not pulling on it or bending it too far youll be fine. And even if you pull it off the glass its not too hard to slip it back on the glass
Well I started workin on a mounting bracket today and I milled it out of 1/4" aluminum plate. The bracket will sit in the gutter and I'll have an 1/8" piece as the clamp on the outside of the gutter. To attach the light bar I'll have two pieces of steel tubing coming out from each bracket to meet the lightbar in the middle. I should be done tomorrow and I'll post more photos!
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO


