thebyus

Am going to be trussing my Dana 30 up front. Am trying to decide between the Artec and the Ironrock.

Any body have any experience with either, or with both? The Ironrock is a true end to end truss, but I have heard really good things about the Artec, and not just about price.

I know the Ironrock comes with c-gussets, but I'll probably spring for the Artec ones, any ways.

So, any thoughts, opinions, or preferably, actual experience with either or both?

Fred/N0AZZ

Very few bother trussing a D30 when it comes to that point most swap differentials to a D44 of something. That may be the reason for so few answers.

thebyus

Thanks Fred,

You're probably right, except I keep finding build threads with trusses going on, so I know at least a couple people do it. I'd love to throw in a 44, but don't have the OUTRAGEOUS sums of money they want for them these days. You can pick up a brand new bolt in 30 for under $500, but a stock 44 is almost 4 times that, and then you still have to regear and lock it! Insane!

andrewmp6

I'm with fred i would look in to a 1980 and newer jeep wagoneer dana 44 swap.Or if you get lucky jk rubicon 44s front and rear.They are worth the swap they are not a normal dana 44 the center is more like a dana 60.

holycaveman

I put a truss kit on a Jk going to that Jk challenge thing out west. It held up well. Granted those 30's are wider. And really need a truss kit in my opinion.

holycaveman

And don't bother trussing a lp dana 30. They are 45% weaker than the hp Dana 30.

Personally I feel the dana 30 is narrow enough that it does not need trussed. Holy cow just look at some of the jeep jumping videos. LOL

Aftermarket carrier and chromoly is all you need. Well unless you are jumping, etc...... or have a real heavy rig.

Atmos

yeah nah. the rubicon 44's are basically super Dana 30's. the huge price tag makes them a NO GO.


it's a humongous pain in the *** swapping an old rusty housing into the front of your jeep. there are many hidden costs, unexpected challenged, blah blah blah. buy whichever truss is cheaper for the D30 if you really feel the need for a truss. it will help, but if you're on a tight budget there are plenty other things I could think of spending money on first

Atmos

ehh more like 30% weaker. it's mostly a coast vs drive issue.

but I'd agree, if you're gonna beef up a D30 it may as well be HP

holycaveman

Yea I had forgot the actual percentage. searching for one now.

Even though my lp held up. A hp should be an easy swap.

caronaxtr

Picked up a truss off Craig's list along with my HP30. Wouldn't have bought except it was like $50.00. I believe it's a Ballistic Truss...

Demonoid369

This debate is a dumb one. One thing over all other warrants a bigger axle: tire size. Terrain comes second.
If he's sticking to 33"-35" a d30 trussed and plated is plenty stout and cheaper than a 44
If going bigger than ya a 44 would be best.
Simple as that.

Atmos

there are many good reasons to go to a D44 on 35's. I can think of at least 4 right off the top of my head. but I can also think of 3 good reasons why you also shouldn't.
I think an east coast crawler going up slick rocky terrain will be able to break on a smaller tire, where a west coast guy taking it easy and crawling on the dry rocks might be able to do a D30 on 37's (actually I've seen it on 39's. dumb)
what warrants a bigger axle is: driving style

CobraMarty

I agree and like your thoughts.
We will be doing the same. IronRock truss with their 'inner'C plus Artec 'outer'C, plus IronRock inner axle sleeve.
And IronRock 8.25 Truss.
$350+$80+$110+$130= $670
With Rock Krawler 3 link long arms, chrome moly axles shafts, TrueTracs, AW-4 + 4.56s and 35" duratracs.
It's not 44s or D60s and I am OK with that.

holycaveman

39's on a 30? Damn that's even further than I would go!

I am in the east coast slick rocks though.

Unfortunately it takes the skinny pedal and bouncing to get anywhere.

Demonoid369

42" just recently lol it's amazing it's still alive. That's why I said terrain comes in second. I wanted to say driving style but that is such a wide variety that I felt tire size is more accurate as it has more accurate results: 35" are the middle tire where it's a toss up on 44 or 30 depending on terrain. But say 33" a 44 is going to cost more, hang lower and generally be pointless even in west coast and east coast situations as a free stock 30 with plating and truss made from scratch(use home fab as a base) will be plenty strong and cheaper.