IRO 5.5in Long Arm
#1
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Model: Cherokee
IRO 5.5in Long Arm
Does anyone know if the iro 5.5in long arm kit comes with everything needed. By that i mean if i install it the jeep will be able to be drove down the rode with no major death wobble or anything. I know it will need an aligament. But is anything not included in the kit that i will need. I also know i will need an sye.
#2
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
According to their lovely description, yes. Read the words on the site.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XLK
I'll go ahead and say it, IRO long arms are trash. Google it before Cherokee forum explodes.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XLK
I'll go ahead and say it, IRO long arms are trash. Google it before Cherokee forum explodes.
#4
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Location: Albuquerque, NM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yes they come with everything needed to drive it down the road, you may want to look into shackle relocation brackets to get the proper 45 degrees in, shackle angle. Oh for the sye youll need the front DS to replace your current rear DS.
On the other note, I know plenty of people running the IRO kit, and they love it, great on and offroad. Most the people that bash them do run better crap like rock krawler or clayton, but those kits are stupid expensive. Id run there kit, arms and crossmember are beefy as ****, and they do flex for days
On the other note, I know plenty of people running the IRO kit, and they love it, great on and offroad. Most the people that bash them do run better crap like rock krawler or clayton, but those kits are stupid expensive. Id run there kit, arms and crossmember are beefy as ****, and they do flex for days
#6
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Thanks and yeah I won't he doing no major offroading but when I do I want to have a decent setup. Thanks purple for the great opinion do you currently have the kit or no ?
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No, Im running a 3" RC kit, but like I said I wheel with a couple of people that do, and they love it. I was going to before plans got a lot bigger. So atm, by the end of the summer I want to purchase a new DD, probably a MK4 Jetta VR6. To start on the rear chop(Straight down after the rear seats), Narrow the front(from A pillars, to about the width of the grill), and have it sitting on 60's or 44's(depends what I find)3link front, 4 link rear with a slight stretch. After that, Id like to start gathering the parts for a 4.7(or 4.6) stroker with and M90 supercharged full forged internals, unless I can figure out a way to do a turbo setup that would work good for crawling. After thats all said and done, I should be able to virtually run and size tire i want(what the axle/gears and engine/tcase/tranny will handle)
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#10
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Google. This question gets asked at least 5 times a week on every XJ forum on the internet. All you're going to find is people saying how awesome it is and defending the terrible design of their long arms.
#11
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Here, with 5 minutes on google i found these:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fYgrG-YJU2kkTg
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Give this a read:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...ight=long+arms
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...fYgrG-YJU2kkTg
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Give this a read:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...ight=long+arms
#14
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Could have been the installer..? Yes that was exactly what happened, the flawed design has absolutely nothing to do with any of the failures i have seen of this kit.
"Since they also remove one UCA from the equation, you end up with significantly less safety margin between the breaking limit of the design and the conditions it operates under. It's a bad combination of factors and I'm surprised more haven't failed, honestly.
Not sure whether the bolt breaks or comes loose - my suspicion is that between the lack of contact area and the shape of the bracket, as well as the fact that one of the parts has its contact surfaces either powdercoated or painted, the bolt loses preload, then shears (bolts are designed to transfer force by pinching parts together enough that the friction between the parts carries the load - NOT as shear pins! If your design has the bolt under shear, you probably shouldn't be designing suspension systems) or the nut vibrates loose. The worst part of the design is that once the bolt works its way loose somehow, the only thing keeping the axle located is the spindly section of caster adjuster between the slot and the edge of that piece of metal stock. So as the axle pitches forward and back under acceleration and braking, it beats on that little piece of metal until it spreads the caster adjuster slot out (every single failed IRO kit I've seen has this symptom!) and at that point, the bolt is sliding back and forth and impacting the bracketry as it reaches each end of its travel. You can only do that to a bolt so many times before it eventually work hardens and breaks, even if the nut doesn't come off first."
I am also not a fan of their dinky crossmember design that leaves something to be desired. All in all I am guessing you were leaning towards this kit because it was cheap, like everyone else ever. If i were you, I would go with virtually any other companys long arm set up on my Jeep other than Iron Rock. I personally run the Clayon Y link and have had nothing but wonderful things to say about it. Clayton, RK, TnT, Serious Offroad, RE, or the Full Traction 3 link kits would all be substantially better, IMO. Now, find me a thread where people have had problems with those kits and where their designs are flawed
"Since they also remove one UCA from the equation, you end up with significantly less safety margin between the breaking limit of the design and the conditions it operates under. It's a bad combination of factors and I'm surprised more haven't failed, honestly.
Not sure whether the bolt breaks or comes loose - my suspicion is that between the lack of contact area and the shape of the bracket, as well as the fact that one of the parts has its contact surfaces either powdercoated or painted, the bolt loses preload, then shears (bolts are designed to transfer force by pinching parts together enough that the friction between the parts carries the load - NOT as shear pins! If your design has the bolt under shear, you probably shouldn't be designing suspension systems) or the nut vibrates loose. The worst part of the design is that once the bolt works its way loose somehow, the only thing keeping the axle located is the spindly section of caster adjuster between the slot and the edge of that piece of metal stock. So as the axle pitches forward and back under acceleration and braking, it beats on that little piece of metal until it spreads the caster adjuster slot out (every single failed IRO kit I've seen has this symptom!) and at that point, the bolt is sliding back and forth and impacting the bracketry as it reaches each end of its travel. You can only do that to a bolt so many times before it eventually work hardens and breaks, even if the nut doesn't come off first."
I am also not a fan of their dinky crossmember design that leaves something to be desired. All in all I am guessing you were leaning towards this kit because it was cheap, like everyone else ever. If i were you, I would go with virtually any other companys long arm set up on my Jeep other than Iron Rock. I personally run the Clayon Y link and have had nothing but wonderful things to say about it. Clayton, RK, TnT, Serious Offroad, RE, or the Full Traction 3 link kits would all be substantially better, IMO. Now, find me a thread where people have had problems with those kits and where their designs are flawed