I now see how dangerous this thing is
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 472
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From: Middletown, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
you could just lock the d35 and get away with it on stock tires and up to 31's, but 33's will snap it with stock gears.
that's where you want the 8.25 from the 98 and up that has 29 spline axle shafts where as the earlier 8.25 only had 27 spline axle shafts. hence the 27/9 (27 or /29).
if you're planning on 33's, just replace the d35 now with a locked 8.25.
and don't wheel alone, especially in a no go zone. lol.
that's where you want the 8.25 from the 98 and up that has 29 spline axle shafts where as the earlier 8.25 only had 27 spline axle shafts. hence the 27/9 (27 or /29).
if you're planning on 33's, just replace the d35 now with a locked 8.25.
and don't wheel alone, especially in a no go zone. lol.
To lock it all you do is buy a locking differential, companies make them and they replace some of the gears that are inside your diff right now. A cheaper but good company is Aussie Lockers, there is Lock rite lockers, Powertrax lockers (I have and love). These are spyder gear replacements and are typically called luchbox lockers. The most expensive listed there is the powertrax and mine was $550 with shipping. Aussie can be $300 mabe less if you look.
Then there are full carrier lockers like Eaton lockers and ARB lockers. They are much more but they are super strong. They are really geared toward people with 35+ tires that do tough wheeling.
For what it sounds you get into then a simple luchbox locker should do. My buddys run an Aussie locker in his 8.25 with stock 3.55 gears and 33 inch tires for over 2 years now and has never had a problem
Then there are full carrier lockers like Eaton lockers and ARB lockers. They are much more but they are super strong. They are really geared toward people with 35+ tires that do tough wheeling.
For what it sounds you get into then a simple luchbox locker should do. My buddys run an Aussie locker in his 8.25 with stock 3.55 gears and 33 inch tires for over 2 years now and has never had a problem
Also, im going to get 4.10 gears for it, and the guy im buying from said if i upgrade gears in back, i have to upgrade the front as well. Is that a recommendation, or a must?
Thanks guys, im appreciating all of this.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
it's a must.
otherwise, when you pull the 4wd lever, both diffs will want to turn at different speeds, thus grenading your t-case. not good.
otherwise, when you pull the 4wd lever, both diffs will want to turn at different speeds, thus grenading your t-case. not good.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
So if i get the 8.25, and drop the 4.10 in, is it that easy? Take one set out, and put the new set in? Then same to the front (D30).
where would you guys recommend getting 4.10 for D30?
CF Veteran

Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 9
From: Georgia
Year: 99 94
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: I6
Originally Posted by red97cherokeewithsunroof
And whys the 8.25 so much better than the D35?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 472
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From: Middletown, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the 8.25 has a larger axle tube at 3 inches, rather than the d35 at 2.75. they may also be thicker.
also the ring gear is larger which makes it stronger. the bearings are larger, shafts are larger with more splines, pumpkin is larger...
as for the gears, they need to be set up professionally, not just put together.
they can cost around 250 per axle for gears and install kit, then about 3-400 per axle for set up. that's if you remove the axles and take them to the shop. if they have to remove the axles from the jeep, it will cost more.
you are almost better off looking for a set from a 4 cylinder jeep, as those came with 4.10 as a stock option, and would just bolt in place of your existing ones, (for the most part).
also the ring gear is larger which makes it stronger. the bearings are larger, shafts are larger with more splines, pumpkin is larger...
as for the gears, they need to be set up professionally, not just put together.
they can cost around 250 per axle for gears and install kit, then about 3-400 per axle for set up. that's if you remove the axles and take them to the shop. if they have to remove the axles from the jeep, it will cost more.
you are almost better off looking for a set from a 4 cylinder jeep, as those came with 4.10 as a stock option, and would just bolt in place of your existing ones, (for the most part).
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 472
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, Ohio
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Straight 6 4.0L
the 8.25 has a larger axle tube at 3 inches, rather than the d35 at 2.75. they may also be thicker.
also the ring gear is larger which makes it stronger. the bearings are larger, shafts are larger with more splines, pumpkin is larger...
as for the gears, they need to be set up professionally, not just put together.
they can cost around 250 per axle for gears and install kit, then about 3-400 per axle for set up. that's if you remove the axles and take them to the shop. if they have to remove the axles from the jeep, it will cost more.
you are almost better off looking for a set from a 4 cylinder jeep, as those came with 4.10 as a stock option, and would just bolt in place of your existing ones, (for the most part).
also the ring gear is larger which makes it stronger. the bearings are larger, shafts are larger with more splines, pumpkin is larger...
as for the gears, they need to be set up professionally, not just put together.
they can cost around 250 per axle for gears and install kit, then about 3-400 per axle for set up. that's if you remove the axles and take them to the shop. if they have to remove the axles from the jeep, it will cost more.
you are almost better off looking for a set from a 4 cylinder jeep, as those came with 4.10 as a stock option, and would just bolt in place of your existing ones, (for the most part).
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,212
Likes: 1
From: lewisberry PA
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by red97cherokeewithsunroof
4cyl huh? like...wronglers...what years and types of jeep should i look for??
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
4 cylinder cherokees, not sure about the 5 speed, as most with the 4.0L had higher gears (lower numerically).
i think the autos had the 4.10's. you can use wrangler axles, but you would need a tj front and yj rear.
better to just get xj axles. preferably from a newer model with the 8.25 rear.
stay away from the 89 and older as they have a different caliper/mounting bracket. unless yours is from those years.
i think the autos had the 4.10's. you can use wrangler axles, but you would need a tj front and yj rear.
better to just get xj axles. preferably from a newer model with the 8.25 rear.
stay away from the 89 and older as they have a different caliper/mounting bracket. unless yours is from those years.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
install kit gives you your seals, bearings, bolts, gaskets, marking compound etc. depending on the company and whether you get their master installation kit or not.
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