I just cant stop
10-16-2012, 06:30 PM
#31
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
stopping
been to 4 different jy, only one had the booster... it was $45, no thanks.. So nobody thinks there is any way it could be anything else? the power brakes still work just very poorly. my jeep died going down the road the other day and the power brakes went ALL the way out, now that was hard to stop! 
Last edited by zombie jeep101; 10-16-2012 at 06:36 PM.
10-17-2012, 08:19 AM
#32
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
been to 4 different jy, only one had the booster... it was $45, no thanks.. So nobody thinks there is any way it could be anything else? the power brakes still work just very poorly. my jeep died going down the road the other day and the power brakes went ALL the way out, now that was hard to stop!
10-17-2012, 08:29 AM
#33
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been to 4 different jy, only one had the booster... it was $45, no thanks.. So nobody thinks there is any way it could be anything else? the power brakes still work just very poorly. my jeep died going down the road the other day and the power brakes went ALL the way out, now that was hard to stop!
This is the LKQ parts prices.
http://www.lkqselfserve.com/location...le-212/prices/
Any power brake booster is 24 bucks with an 8 dollar core.
Look for an 02 Grand Cherokee. Only thing you have to change is some line fittings and the rod modifications in the link up above.
It's the best modification you can do for brakes. It makes a HUGE difference.
10-17-2012, 01:45 PM
#35
Junior Member
Dang. I need the drivers door off the red XJ.
Our LQK usually has about 10-20 XJs. 10-20 WJs and about 40 ZJs. (Because ZJs are junk to begin with) but they never have a straight red 4 dr drivers door.
Our LQK usually has about 10-20 XJs. 10-20 WJs and about 40 ZJs. (Because ZJs are junk to begin with) but they never have a straight red 4 dr drivers door.
10-17-2012, 01:50 PM
#36
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
So how come nobody here has told him how to bleed the brakes yet?
ok, starting at the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. make sure you're fulll of fluid. have someone pump up the brakes til they're good and hard, and hold them hard while you crack the bleeder valve open, close it back up, and repeat until you get no more air bubbles, then move on to the next wheel, always checking to make sure there's fluid in the reservoir. When you pump brakes and they get harder, that means there's probably air in the line...
ok, starting at the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. make sure you're fulll of fluid. have someone pump up the brakes til they're good and hard, and hold them hard while you crack the bleeder valve open, close it back up, and repeat until you get no more air bubbles, then move on to the next wheel, always checking to make sure there's fluid in the reservoir. When you pump brakes and they get harder, that means there's probably air in the line...
10-17-2012, 02:02 PM
#38
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
yeah... lets bleed the entire system, with the pumping up pressure and holding rather then just opening it and then pushing the pedal.
10-17-2012, 08:04 PM
#39
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Year: 99
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Well, hit a stop in the road. Went and bought a BRAND NEW booster because I was tired of messing with jy's... Spent like 3 hours installing it and it DID NOT FIX IT... Times like this I wana sell the dang heep 
10-17-2012, 08:17 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by sthon
eh... here's your problem.
10-18-2012, 09:05 AM
#43
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Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
I never bled the rear? I only did the front two
10-18-2012, 09:11 AM
#44
Junior Member
Take the booster back, tell em it didn't work and you want your money back. Put the old one back on and drive over here and I'll bleed your brakes.
When I bleed brakes I use a clear plastic hose and clear 20oz bottle.
Start farthest from the master cylinder.
Put about a cup of brake fluid in the bottle.
Slide the hose on to the bleeder screw, put the other end of the hose in the bottle submerged in brake fluid. (This makes it easy to see the bubbles and prevents sucking air back into the system while the bleeder is open. It makes a huge difference.)
Have some poor soul pump the brakes several times then hold it about 1" off the floor.
Break the bleeder loose and watch the bubbles come pouring out.
Close the bleeder
Now have your helper let go of the brakes and start pumping again.
Do this a couple times until you get the bubbles out then move over to the other side.
I usually make 2 laps around the vehicle doing this.
10-18-2012, 12:43 PM
#45
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
Take the booster back, tell em it didn't work and you want your money back. Put the old one back on and drive over here and I'll bleed your brakes.
When I bleed brakes I use a clear plastic hose and clear 20oz bottle.
Start farthest from the master cylinder.
Put about a cup of brake fluid in the bottle.
Slide the hose on to the bleeder screw, put the other end of the hose in the bottle submerged in brake fluid. (This makes it easy to see the bubbles and prevents sucking air back into the system while the bleeder is open. It makes a huge difference.)
Have some poor soul pump the brakes several times then hold it about 1" off the floor.
Break the bleeder loose and watch the bubbles come pouring out.
Close the bleeder
Now have your helper let go of the brakes and start pumping again.
Do this a couple times until you get the bubbles out then move over to the other side.
I usually make 2 laps around the vehicle doing this.
When I bleed brakes I use a clear plastic hose and clear 20oz bottle.
Start farthest from the master cylinder.
Put about a cup of brake fluid in the bottle.
Slide the hose on to the bleeder screw, put the other end of the hose in the bottle submerged in brake fluid. (This makes it easy to see the bubbles and prevents sucking air back into the system while the bleeder is open. It makes a huge difference.)
Have some poor soul pump the brakes several times then hold it about 1" off the floor.
Break the bleeder loose and watch the bubbles come pouring out.
Close the bleeder
Now have your helper let go of the brakes and start pumping again.
Do this a couple times until you get the bubbles out then move over to the other side.
I usually make 2 laps around the vehicle doing this.