BimmerJeeper

1) My 3 heater ***** do not light up. Is there an easy fix for this? Or is it a nightmare that involves removing the entire dashboard, etc? Know of a write up? My search found little.

2) When I am stopped at a light, I notice my 2H/4H/N/4L handle creates a buzzing/rattling. I finally figured out it was this handle when I grabbed it and the buzzing stopped. I plan to remove my console soon. Is there something I can tighten while I'm in there?

3) My driver's side window does not roll down. I think it's electrical, and not the regulator. It's 100% dead. I heard it can be broken wires in the "door hinge boot" But, I have no idea how to open this up. I am going to try removing the door panel tomorrow. I will re-seat the connectors on the window switch. How, how do I fix a potentially broken wire hidden in the door boot. Is there a write-up somewhere?

Thanks!

EDIT: All 3 of these have been resolved. Details below.

BimmerJeeper

Here is the rattling 4WD handle at idle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=li1u...A&feature=plcp

ragged1

My shifter rattles as well. I don't know of a solution, but pushing down on it stops my rattling.

BimmerJeeper

Apparently, there is a bushing under the car in the 4WD linkage that is faulty. TSB. Maybe an easy fix.

91 limited owner

Take the door panel and the kick panel off, start checking with a voltmeter. splice in with same guage wire after you find the broken wires.

BimmerJeeper

Can you explain (or post a link) of how you test with a voltmeter? Please assume no knowledge. I own a multimeter. All I ever used it for was to test my battery voltage at 14V while running. I also know how to do a continuity test (on another setting)

BimmerJeeper

Here is a photo of behind the heater faceplate.
As you can see, there is NO bulb socket anywhere!
Do you think the XJ just didn't come with illuminated heater *****??

BimmerJeeper

Rattling 4WD handle linkage can be secured with 2 zipties.
This is directly under the driver's seat.

1) One long ziptie lengthwise (black). Can't get 2 hands up in there, so I used a long needlenose to help make that black ziptie as tight as possible.
2) Then a 2nd one (blue) that loops around the rattling shaft to secure it to the first ziptie.

This seems to have done the trick. No more rattle at idle.

NewJerseyXJ609

When you say the heater **** do you mean like on the actual **** itself? Bc I'm pretty sure they aren't lite up at all. The other mumbo jumbo on the panel is lite. But if your thinking the little white ticks on the **** are supposed to light up you may be mistaken. Or mine are broken also. Lol but I'm pretty sure they don't light up.

Btw, both of my passenger windows don't work. I haven't had a chance to diagnose them. You can check to see if the motors are bad easily. Disconnect the connector to the motor and run 2 wires to your battery. On to power, one to ground. It should go up/down.. Reverse the polarity for the opposite. If your motor is good you want to make sure it's getting power. You'll need a test light to do that.

If you have power to the motor take your test light and have a friend press the switch up/down and probe the wires to Make sure you have power to the switch...If you have a good Window motor and power to it/ the switch we can assume you have a bad switch. Which I hear is common. They can be cleaned out btw.

NewJerseyXJ609

Ok I lied. The heater ***** DO light up. Sorry about that. I never noticed it before until you said something! But I can confirm they do light up.

Scott_Sport99

about that rattle..
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/h...b-pics-574562/

BimmerJeeper

Thanks, but the 2 ziptie solution seems to be working for now!

BimmerJeeper

I was able to replace the heater faceplate bulbs today. About $8 for 2 bulbs at the dealer. Ordering online would be the same after shipping. The ones at Autozone did not have the base, oddly. It took me about an hour to replace the bulbs. It was slightly inconvenient to work with the center dashboard with while sitting in the driver's seat since the steering wheel kept interfering with my left arm. Since the HVAC plate has almost no play, and does not pull forward at all, it was not easy to twist lock the bulb into place from behind. So, I also tried to turn the bulb glass itself from the front. I was able to get no leverage from behind with a micro-screwdriver either.

Instead, I had to use a needlenose plier to twist the bulb into place from the front. The trick was to line up the pliers behind the notch so it would have something to push against, and not just slip. It was also tricky to get the bulb down into the 2nd hole on the bottom right, since that side of the HVAC plate has almost zero play.



I would have loved to remove the white HVAC faceplate entirely, but the 5 black clips wouldn't give way, they'd just immediately snap right back into place. You'd need 5 arms and 5 screwdrivers to pull that off.