Gotta question for ya, met a women yesterday that has a 5.3 Vortec with 43,000 miles thats complete with belt, pulleys, radiator, resevoirs, wire harness, and etc. for about $1200, just doesn't have the PCM and stuff. is this a good deal.

 

No.

Keep shopping.

I paid $850 for a my Complete engine, Complete vehicle harnes, Tranny, PCM, and all other Black Boxes.

The deals are out there if you shop around.

Offer $850 and not a penny more.

 

That is sick. Red Cherokee seems fitting. Ive always wanted to put just plain old TBI Chev 350 in my Red&Black 84 Cherokee. And a SM420 or 465 behind that with Advance Adaptor to a built NP or NV 231. Of course A pair of axles from a 79 Ford 4x4 Dana 44 front drivers side and Ford 9 rear with Deaver rear leafs at 4 1/2 inches and Grand Cherokee front coils and 2in puck for front with Rancho 9000s all around.

 

just trying to give my person experience. but since you know who i am or what ive done.


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and like i said. YOU DONT NEED ALL THAT EXTRA JUNK

 

Your personal experiece gives you the right to bash a really good guy that has helped a lot of people complete some amazing projects?

Well friend, you really missed the mark with that cheap shot.

Do a search on LS1tech.com and see how many times Brenden and his site are refered too.

To anyone thinking of doing a Vortec Swap into an XJ, Brenden's site will save you copious amounts of time and money by showing you how to modify the Vortec Harness. Price a harness from Painless, howel, or any other company and you'll quickly see prices typically starting at $400 and move up from there.

You'll be hard pressed to find anyone willing to reprogram and ship your PCM back to you Express Mail for $75. I couldn't find anyone even close.

 

ok ok ill give you the tard thing.
but my information is still correct. the only computer i used for my ls1 swap was the manual ecm from an ls1 6spd camaro.

i dont see how you dont comprehend that? i didnt have to spend 400$+ on some extra computer that i DID NOT NEED. i picked up a wiring diagram and pinned the wires i did need out of the ecm.
lol just so we are clear. i made the first comment towards john-mike.
in case you didnt catch that either.

 

That's all find and dandy if you don't want to run an Automatic transmission and take advantage to the tunability of a single computer that will control the engine and the transmission.

The vast majority of swaps done in jeeps include an Automatic transmission (4L60E, 4L65E, or a 4L80E).

Visit the 5.3l Jeep thread on Priate4x4 and you'll see what I mean.

 

i know what you mean. but my information that is correct still stands.

 

Yes you are correct, a PCM for a manual tranny is needed if you are running a manual transmission.

And all the wiring info needed to connect either is available at Bbrendens site at no cost.

 

its also located for free in my head.

 

sorry but thats lame id rather have a i6 4.0 HO because v engines make torque with horsepower which means they need to be spinning at high rpm to make torque inlines have instant torque (torque=rock crawler/good off road) plus v engines are heavy compared to a inline 4 or inline 6 sorry to disappoint but if you do your research you will find out everything i told you is true so dont flame me

 

Easy guys. I have a very limited matter in the subject only know what I know from friends so I am not going to chime in.

I know FrankZ holds a big word here, atleast with me, and only chimes in on what He is talking about, That I know is true.

But keep the bickering to a minimum

 

Here's a dyno result from a local guy with an 04' 5.3l (stock) 37" tires, 4l60E tranny. Chasis dyno numbers:
Now correct for altitude, temperature, humidity, and drive train loss you're looking at approx. 330HP at the crankshaft.

My stroker couldn't match numbers on it's best day.
After $2200 in machining, balancing and blue printing, weight matching all the pistons, CC'ing the head, etc. This doesn't include the head work that I did, my time, or the additional costs incuured while building the motor. 3 failures including a cam lobe flattening out, a busted valve spring dropping a valve into the #6 cylinder, etc, etc,etc.

Going with a bone stock motor that produced better Tq and HP without any mods (other than a set of headers) right out of the box 9so to speak) was a complete no brainer.

The old axiom of "There's no replacement for displacement" is oh so true.

A bone stock 4.0L is a great motor, there's no argument there. If you want or need more power, a V8 is an incredible option.

A 4.0L didn't cut it for me. Added weight from armor, big rubber, camping gear and food for the 4 occupants and mountain passes made for long slow, underpowered drives. No longer an issue with more cubes under the hood.

As far as wheeling and off-idle response, 5.3L produces more power, more quickly than a stock 4.0L or stroked 4.0L.
That's my real world, Butt Dyno result. Print-outs available for a nominal fee...

10-4!!

 

help !
looking all over the forums and i am going crazy already .
starting an MJ project and i need to know how to get the LSx engine to work without a pcm .. will go carburetor and MSD box , but what else do i need ?
looking at two kinds of engine mounts . novak adapters and advanced adapters, anyone knows which is better ?

if anyone knows a build thread ? please point it out.

 

There is a video on youtube about converting Miata to 5.0 Mustang engine + some bodywork conversion.
As a result they got $15-20K car.
I was thinking: Why not to buy 95 Mustang GT for about 3K?
I bought 84 Corvette for $800. It needed some work, but engine and transmission were good.