I have always loved XJ's. Ever since I can remember I have wanted one. Now I am about to get my license and need some suggestions to help me out. I know (For the most part) what I want. I want a black 1998-01 XJ (I need help with trim), with a 4.5 inch lift from rough country. I also want some smoked taillights, instead of the stock ones. I wold like a new-ish radio in my XJ too. If that is possible without ruining the duct work in it. Really I have thought about this non-stop for the past months. Can someone help me?

 

Haven't gotten a quick response cause this isnt quite in the right section but thats ok! A new radio install will be just fine without messing anything up. If i were you i would be careful on the RC 4.5 lift cause the leaf springs are short and cause a terrible shack angle. You would be better off with a 3 inch full leaf pack and a 1.5 adjustable shackle from them. Anymore questions just search or give us a holler in here https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f40/an...3160/index133/ thats the GA thread with all of us in it. I'm in Carrollton, GA on the west side of the state. PM me or whatever if you ever need anything. Might could help you do a lot of it

 

Just getting your licence? How old are you? Naw just kidding I got my licence 7 months ago, I agree up here ^^ a radio install wont ruin anything just make sure to stop at autozone and pick up and install kit and a wiring harness, it is very easy to install. And I would look into different types of lift such as Rubicon express and stuff because I have seen many people complain about rc products (doesn't mean it doesn't work and you wont like it) but others seem to have better reviews. Also 4.5" lift is an excellent choice you can fit 33"s with a little trimming to have full flex. But make sure to get full leafs or a bastard pack and full springs, you will see better results with full springs but 1" shackle is ok or relocated shackles, I dont remember. Just make sure to do so much research on what else is needed like extended brake lines and stuff. 98-01 models are a great way to go I love my 98 but be careful with 00-01 because their heads are prone to cracking.

 

Yup. The 00-01 head issue SHOULDN'T ever be an issue if the cooling system is working

 

If you intend on wheeling your Jeep, PLEASE BUY RECOVERY POINTS FIRST !

I suggest joining a local club affilaited with United Four Wheel Drive Association, Blue Ribbon Collation. They are Usually great clubs who have events to help out new people and show you tools you should have and driving techniques that can help save you from a roll over .

Wheel your rig stock so you can get used to it and go with another vehicle never go wheeling alone Then lift it !

 

Just some things to keep in mind:

A 4.5 inch lift will require a slip yoke eliminator, axle shims, t-case drop, or some combination of the three to avoid driveline vibes. More money.

You'll greatly increase your likelihood of death wobble on a lift that high, so having all your front suspension components in top shape will be a top priority. More money.

I'm not sure, but you're also probably looking at some modifications to the brake line set-up to allow for the longer drop distance from the lift. No point in jacking that thing in the air if you can't stop it. More money.

If you are going to outfit your rig with 33" tires or larger, you're going to have some issues with stock 3.55 gears. Lots more money.

You'll also have much higher rotational mass from those big meats, so a brake rotor/pad upgrade may be in order. More money.

I'm not trying to discourage you from doing anything, I just want you to go into this aware of the things you need to consider in order to do it RIGHT. Your safety, as well as the safety of those around you is always important. If there is one thing that there is NOT a shortage of, it's jacked up rigs done half-assed. Unless you plan on doing it right, you'll likely create more headaches in the long run, severely dampen your enjoyment of your ride, and miss out on the true well-rounded performance benefits of a properly planned and executed build.

All that being said, I hope you choose to march forward with your plans. There are a ton of people on here that are very generous with their time and knowledge that are always glad to help a new guy out.

 

a 4.5 does NOT always require an SYE or transfer case drop or shims or anything... but it is about time to start thinking about an SYE. Don't bother with a transfer case drop.

Why 98-01? Why not 97? The body style you want without the other downgrades.

RC lift is a good choice if you're on a budget. I wouldnt' consider it a final lift though, you'll be changing stuff out as you get to know more about it. There is no perfect prefabbed lift kit. You want what's best for you, you'll be doing some mixing and matching.

Lift height does NOT increase your "chances" of death wobble. If you have death wobble it's because something is worn or out of alignment/balance. Lifting it may make it more noticable, but it is not the cause and whatever it is needed to be fixed anyway.

Try to refrain from the myth spreading, lol.

I will say this... DO NOT buy one that's already modified. Find something stock, clean, untouched and build it how you want it. Trust this is by far the better route.

 

With all due respect, I'm not "myth spreading." There is a good number in our group that have experienced driveline vibration with only a 3" lift. And there are more than just a few threads on these forums about people with the RC 4.5 that have reported driveline vibrations, and also reported that they had to use one or several of the three things I mentioned to cure them.

I never said the lift would cause death wobble. I said it would increase the likelihood of it. Yes, DW is ultimately caused by worn or incorrectly adjusted suspension components, but there is ample example on these forums of someone relaying that they never noticed any DW symptoms on their XJ UNTIL they lifted it. The height of lift exacerbates and amplifies the effect.

I suppose my main point is, if we all start filling this guy "yeah, I never had any issues" stories, we are doing him a disservice and setting him up for disappointment. And a young guy like him is probably on a budget that isn't easily stretched at a moment's notice. Much better we have him go into this project fully aware of all relevant points and prepare him for issues that are in fact highly likely than to paint a picture through rose-colored glasses for him.

Just trying to help the guy out and keep him from being surprised when things come up. And, not to paint with too broad a brush, but young guys with their first rig that get all excited tend to jump in feet first, only to find out their initial "Pie in the Sky" plans didn't exactly work. These forums are full of those people and their pleas for help.

 

If you think you need a boost right off the bat think again, plenty of fun in a stocker:

ETA: Don't be afraid to pay a trusted mechanic for an hour or two to look over your prospective new purchase. It is unfortuneately not unheard of for some loser to ask top dollar for a vehicle that requires a serious amount of work. A major bonus is you will get to learn to drive twice, on road and off.

 

My lift cured my death wobble. Happened all the time at 65. I can go anywhere from 0-max speedo and get nothing now.
Probably another reason that full lift kits are the way to go. They replace more worn parts with new ones.

 

What do you need help with? You sound like you're on the right track. Rough Country is a great kit to get started with and a 1999 is the best year Cherokee to look for. I did a lot of research prior to buying mine and the year 1999 reported the least amount of recalls/issues out of the newer series Cherokees.

As far as trim packages, go with Limited for luxury, Sport, Classic, or regular for everything else.

 

If I could pick any year XJ it would be a 99. Older style head, older style emissions (1 cat not 3), and the newer 99+ intake. IMO the most well-rounded cherokee you can have.

If you're on a budget I'd strongly recommend a 3" lift to start. Enough room to easily clear 31x10.50s and have plenty of fun with. Anything over 4" will be lots more $$$. Also stay away from add-a-leaf kits, they will sag in less than a year.

As somebody stated before, RECOVERY POINTS! The first thing you should get for an XJ is atleast a hitch receiver on the back. For the front you can buy tow hooks with brackets that mount way back on the frame, I'm currently waiting on my Iron Rock Offroad front d-ring crossmember in the mail.

Basically, owning a lifted Jeep isn't cheap. Prepare to have empty pockets.

 

Lifting does not increase the liklihood of death wobbly. If parts are worn or out of alignment, they are worn or out of alignment, has absolutely nothing to do with the lift.

If someone has driveline vibes at 4.5" and it takes shims, an SYE, AND a transfer case drop to make them go away... something is wrong. Those guys on 8" must be having their teeth rattled out of their head! Or they fix the actual problem without throwing bandaids over it. Not saying the increased angle in the driveshaft absolutely won't cause vibes, just saying you're going a little overboard on it. if a 1" t-case drop doesn't get rid of it at 4.5, you have other problems contributing.

If you are already thinking about 4.5", don't go 3", you'll just want to go bigger later and you'll regret it. Every jeep is different, you don't know what you're working with until you get into it. That's half the fun. If what you want is a black xj on 4.5, build a black xj on 4.5". Don't let someone talk you out of it.

Macgyver... this forum is full of those pleas for help because it's a forum that is here for just that purpose. To help the ones who need it.