No way in hell i'd run a street car with a half-assed piggyback tuning solution that lean. That's not a "safe" AFR. That's "Bleeding edge to get every last bit of performance" AFR.

 

My bike is tuned to run 12.1 @ 18psi. I've been told being a little rich also helps pull some of the heat out of the chamber, but I have no proof that it does.

 

We used to call it "tuned like a hand grenade".

 

I'm a bigger fan of Paris Hilton tunes for the street, myself.





(rich and retarded)

 

Still won't start and they found the manifold had a pool of fuel in it.

Ditching the AEM and ordering the FTC unit like I thought I should have initially.... and a new injector of course.

 

The speed shop vacuumed the IM, clamped the fuel hose for the 7th injector, and bypassed the AEM with a wiring harness. It now starts no problems. Why is AEM garbage for driving 1 injector? It's like since it wasn't running the other 5 it over-powered the one until it just stuck open.

 

What injectors are you using lb/hr? and 7th?

 

The only thing I know about the 7th injector is that it was 50lbs. 1-6 are 24lb injectors supplied by Golen. Not sure what brand those are.

 

I thought you were using bigger injectors like 30lb and tuning them with AEM.


Didn't realize you were going to use the 7th injector. The AEM sucks for controlling 1 auxiliary injector like the 7th.

 

It appears Split Second now makes the all new FTC1-201, which is a fully plug and play FTC-121 for jeep engines utilizing the 7th injector.

 

After all this money you've dumped into this truck, why not an actual standalone tuning solution, instead of trying to work around the stock ECU? It'll run better and be safer in the end.

 

I prefer simplicity. Maybe down the road I might change my mind, but for now 4-5 PSI is enough for me and this unit is adequate. Jumping in ***** deep on a standalone solution when I've never even owned a supercharged vehicle just isn't a good idea to me... especially for only 5 PSI on a very cold day in Florida.

I would only go that route after extensive reading and wanting to run more boost, but that's unlikely in my near future since I plan to be in South Korea by 2016 after I finish my first year of college here. I don't know if I'll ever come back. At that point, 4 years from now, I might have changed my mind and by then I will have investigated it enough to know exactly what I want since I will want to be able to drive it on the streets and it will need to pass emissions testing.

 

I must be broken after all these years haha. A standalone IS simplicity to me, vs trying to work around a maddening stock computer with all the extra wiring and BS it requires.

Last time i tried to tune my buddy's AEM FIC equipped turbo car, i wanted to burn it to the ground.

Anyways, good luck either way, i'm interested to see how this all works out in the end, considering stupidcharging my XJ as well. Will probably just go with Megasquirt though.

 

The problems with 'standalones' in DD street driven vehicles is numerous. Racecar- easy. Legal street cars more difficult.
OBD, smog inspections, emissions, able to run all the accessories, auto trans communications, etc. It is much easier said than done. Which one? What harness? Base tune? etc...


Yep, Split Second has been making that box for a couple years now. That was first designed by me for my Sprintex install. I had them combine 3 boxes in one which they had not done before. This is the basis for the M62 supercharger kits. Over 90 sold and in use today. Pre-programmed, plug-n-play, Done. I try and tell everyone. Been there, done that.


The split sec box controls the timing retard, controls the 7th injector, clamps the MAP sensor, has a true tach sensor and is only activated under boost. It is laptop programmable if needed. It is essentially a 'standalone' for the 7th injector. It uses maps based on rpm and boost to control timing and 7th inj pulse widths.

 

Fair enough.

I don't mess with automatic transmission vehicles because i'm convinced they're magic, and i live in a state with no emissions or inspection. Standalones on three of my vehicles. They would all either 1) flat out not run on piggybacks, or 2) explode quickly and violently on a piggyback. I've got too much money in them to want to chance it.

But yes... i suppose with low boost, should be fine. I'd be tempted to give an FMU/MSD BTM combo a shot on this build if we're trying to avoid going whole hog.