I think that my throttle cable was tight going on the F+B and I had to slightly file the ball mount on the F+B for the throttle cable. Tool enough off so the cable would easily spin on the ball mount.

Yella Terra makes 1.6 and 1.7 roller rockers. I have a set of YT 1.7 installed. Since then I can not find any YT 1.7 and have had no luck tracking a set down.
Harland Sharp makes a set of 1.6 only and I have a set of these installed and they work great. I called HS and had them make me 2 sets of custom 1.7:1 roller rockers based on their 1.6s. It just moves the pushrod hole a little closer to the pivot. THey can be used with stock diameter pushrods. Larger diameter pushrods might hit the hole in the head for the pushrods. I have 1 set of HS 1.7:1 roller rockers available $500.

I think I see what you are saying about the bypass valve plumbing. It seem that the bypass valve is small diameter and doesn't flow enough air to feed the 4.6L so the intake manifold is always seeing vacuum. And the transition from 0-1 vacuum to 0-1 boost is ?delayed because the bypass valve is not closing to allow all the air to go thru the SC and build boost. That bypass valve is only like ?30mm and is acting like a restrictor plate for the engine and the intake will never see 0-1 vacuum. Makes sense. At 3 pounds boost you won't overcome the spring of the bypass valve to open it slightly and leak boost.

Sounds like you are really close and done.

 

After I get a pulley made and delivered I'll find a dyno to what see the difference between the two is.

.... before I do that... I'm curious to see what amount of boost would be generated with the BPV constantly closed.... ...

... or maybe just take a needle and ***** a few tiny holes in the BPV line until I get it building boost at part throttle...... yes... that oughta do nicely.

Edit #1. I now get 1.5lbs when I throttle it hard at idle vs. .2-.5 previously. At idle there is no boost, and the vacuum reads in the green for an NA engine. Let's see what boost I make on a quick test drive.

Edit #2. It jumps up to 2.7 at 3000 RPMs on full throttle and is above 3.0 by 4000 and slowly increases to 3.2/3.3 before it shifts into the next gear. At the next gear it starts a 2.7 psi and repeats the process as well. It no longer jumps up to 3~ and tapers down to 1~ quickly now. Part throttle response is noticeably improved. It takes less throttle to accelerate now.

I have vacuum caps on the BPV and the TB nipple that it went to.

I shall report my findings to the Sprintex and Golen masters on Monday.

 

So you have no vacuum going to the BPV?
No vacuum to the BPV will leave the BPV closed all the time.

Throttling it hard at idle is not any test of boost, you should just see the BPV close then open it it is plumbed to vacuum.

Take a pic if that is easier.

 

That's the point of not having it connected. Keeping it closed.

I throttle it hard at idle to see if if there is any difference from before, and there was.

Take a picture if it's easier for what?

 

BPV. With the BPV closed all the time, all the air goes thru the SC and will heat the air and cause a drag due to the SC working. With the BPV open under vacuum, air then bypasses the SC and enters the engine unheated and the SC is free wheeling and has less drag, like 2-3hp, for when cruising, and uses 25-30hp when under boost.

Are you going to hook up the BPV somewhere? Did you say under the TB?

Isn't that 3-3.3 pounds boost about what we predicted with the stock sprintex pulley?

Do you get any more boost if you test drive it with the TB just open, no air filter or hose, no inlet restriction?

 

The purpose of the BPV is to get rid of excess boost while at an idle. I don't have boost, therefore there is no reason to have it in use. If anything, the fact that it's not boosting and getting the extra air flow will help keep it cool. In my mind anyways. I can test that with a heat-laser a couple of times this week and see if the theory holds up.

Sprintex said between 4 and 5 on a stroked engine is what I should expect, but expectation and reality are never exact anyways.

I haven't tried it without the intake hooked up. I know previously it didn't matter, but I have a new can of worms. I'll give it a try tomorrow at first light like I did today. All the numbers I got and posted today were before it had a chance to heat up.

I almost forgot, where did you get your pulley and did it require any modification or was it a direct bolt on. ??

 

That is not correct.
The BPV is to bypass the SC. Not a boost vent valve.
At idle and cruise it bypasses the SC and allows air to go directly into the engine without going thru the SC and getting heated up and when this BPV is open, no air is going thru the SC so the SC is just free wheeling and spinning without doing any work like compressing air and using HP.
Sometimes without a BPV, the engine will surge with SC surging.

They don't know. They actually have very little SC application knowledge. They know about their kit but no theory beyond. Ask them why or how they come up with 4-5 pounds on a stroker. It is a guess, no more. Duh less than a 4.0. There are too many variables to give a blanket guess.

Rimmer and it bolted right on. IIRC I needed a shorter belt.

 

It idles just as good as it did before so I'm not worried about it. There's no boost at idle therefore no reason to be worried about the use of BPV.

SHorter belt? Hmm... which one at the auto parts store? The one that matches what's on there now is the same one a 2007-2014 patriot and something else jeep uses. One of their other little "SUV's" who's many names I can't remember. Commander? Compass? Who knows. They all look the same to me.

 

Pulleys are available.
What size SC pulley is on there now?
What size do you want?

Shorter belt is at the auto parts store.
What is the number on your pulley now?
xx61045 = 6 rib 104.5 inches. Might need next smaller like xx61037. I like gatorback.

 

The stock-aftermarket 58mm default of course.
50mm~

I didn't know my pulley had a number. Whatever sprintex put on it is what's on it.

I'll stick to rubber belts. I don't trust animal skins on my serpentines (pun intended).

 

Doing some pie/circumference math in the difference between the harmonic balancer and the current SC pulley (assuming 7.5" is the diameter at the ribs on the HB, according to various aut-parts web sites' measurements) I get:

(FYI, I chose 4500 as a reference number because I'm positive the transmission shifts before the engine gets that far, and the top rating of my cam is 4800)

58mm Sprintex Pulley:
4500 Engine RPMs = 14780 SC RPMs

54mm Sprintex Pulley:
4500 Engine RPMs = 15875 SC RPMs

49mm Sprintex Pulley:
4500 Engine RPMs = 17495 SC RPMs

I don't know which HB is the correct one out of the two for sure so here's the other one (6.72", which might be for the 2.4 turbo diesel, or might be the actual size diameter of the ribs --- and not the outer pulley dimension --- of the 7.5" HB)

58mm Sprintex Pulley:
4500 Engine RPMs = 13243 SC RPMs

54mm Sprintex Pulley:
4500 Engine RPMs = 14224 SC RPMs

49mm Sprintex Pulley:
4500 Engine RPMs = 15675 SC RPMs


Now the questions remaining,
1. What is the precise measurement of the HB diameter at the ribs
2. What is the long-term risks of running the SC a few hundred RPMs over its max?

Without knowing anything I would assume extra heat in the SC itself would be a concern, and therefore oil changing frequency. Considering I run water injection and the fuel injection of the SplitSecond box can also be increased for a little added cooling as well I would be as concerned myself.

The fact that it would actually attain boost faster would mean my methanol injection would actually turn on and do more cooling than it currently is. As of right now I only get methanol injection, and therefore 7th injector usage, under full WOT conditions because the boost only happens at that time.

I personally think the smaller pulley would be more advantageous in the stroker situation. Otherwise it's an added set of rotors that's always spinning but rarely getting the added Meth/Fuel injection that is intended to keep it running cooler as it otherwise would in a normal 4.0 setup.

Given the lack of boost I'm wondering if there is an alternative method to fool the Snow unit into turning on fast besides setting it for EFI and solder-wiring from 1 of the 6 stock injectors.

Then there's always the question of when to turn it on based off of EFI settings. What's considered a WOT amount of injection per the stock ECU? Does anyone know. ? I imagine they only address how to wire it in properly for an injector reading. It's a universal gasoline application and the way one system operates its injectors will be different from another leaving a big giant-variable in the equation. Even after I punch in the numbers, how do I know what it's doing and if I have it where I want it?

Hence the reason I would rather spoof the boost reading so that any time I give it throttle it reads off at 1 PSI automagically. If I had some sort of positive-pressure/boost-assist device that'd be great. Or maybe I can find a voltage controlling unit that runs off of the TPS and outputs a custom variable voltage reading into the Snow unit so I have easier complete control. I'd have it turn on at 1100 RPMs at 25% and scale up to 100% at 5000 (which it will never reach I know, but injection duty cycles that aren't 100% means longer lasting hardware so that's how I will have it for safety reason).

...I await the conventional wisdom rebuttals that are generalized and not specific to my application.

Edit: How long have you been running the 49mm pulley? (rough mileage estimate)

Edit: Doing the math, the decrease from 58 - 49mm's = a 15.51% increase in airflow according to ... math (theoretically). That means when I floor it and get 2.7psi I would instead start at 3.12 and instead of topping out around 3.5~ it would instead be 4. I have a feeling I would still be in a condition of no-boost at part throttle with this setup and at the risk of some SC longevity.

I think it might just be best to wire in the Snow unit to the EFI and start experimenting

Concern: even though WOT'ing it at idle and seeing 1.5psi pop up on the Snow unit... when I open the throttle from the engine WOT with the nozzle out it's not injecting anything. I have the 375ml nozzle on there and set to start spraying 15% at 1PSI. I'm no methanol-injectionologist... but I think I should see something coming out of that nozzle. The little red light flashes red when it's under boost when I'm driving which is supposed to be an indication that it's injecting. Maybe it requires consistent pressure to turn on...? that means I have to leave my hood partially open with it hanging out the side taped facing upwards so I can see if it's doing anything at all I guess.. ???

 

crank pulley - 6.375" at the ribs
30,000+ miles
for pulley contact rimmer directly at rickrimmer.com tell him what you have and want. Not sure, buy 2.

 

58mm = 2.28" 6.375" = 2.79:1 x2 x59CID = 329CID /280CID stroker x14.7 = 2.57 pounds boost

49mm = 1.93" 6.375" = 3.30:1 x2 x59CID = 389.7CID /280CID x14.7 = 5.75 pounds boost

That is ignoring efficencies, losses, etc. Compares are relative.

If you see with the 58mm you see 3.2 pounds boost, with the 49mm you will probably see 6.5 pounds boost,

 

SC RPM auto trans shifts WOT at 4850rpm
58mm 2.79:1 x 4500 and 4850 = 12,555 and 13,532 rpm
49mm 3.30:1 x 4500 and 4850 = 14,850 and 16,005 rom

 

Those numbers look fairly safe. 30,000 miles on an engine running way more boost than me is certainly eases my mind.

I'm about to give him a ring and see what happens. I was partially thinking about seeing about swapping out the compressor for the larger 335 altogether, but then the amount of boost in relation to pre-existing DCR would be too much. The 49mm pulley in tandem might be pushing it, but we'll see. Timing can always be mentally handicapped further if needs be if it comes to that.