Need to replace the outer pinion bearing and race in high-pinion Dana 30. That exact location heats up quickly to 120F, while the rest of pumpkin remains at 85 F. Also making a groaning noise, sounds a bit like mud tires.

According to the FSM, it can be done without removing the differential cover!
The preload is measured before removal. Then match that measurement when reinstalling.
Has anyone done this? Did you replace the race also? Seems like the race would have to be punched outward from inside the differential, or a special puller tool.

For reference, here are the instructions;
COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
REMOVAL W/PINION INSTALLED
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assemblies.
(3) Remove brake rotors and calipers. Refer to
Group 5, Brakes, for proper procedures.
(4) Mark the propeller shaft and pinion companion
flange for installation reference.
(5) Remove the propeller shaft from the pinion
companion flange.
(6) Rotate the pinion gear a minimum of ten times.
Verify that the pinion rotates smoothly.
(7) Measure the amount of torque necessary to
rotate the pinion gear with a (in. lbs.) dial-type
torque wrench. Record the torque reading for installation
reference.
(8) Using a short piece of pipe and Holder 6958 to
hold the pinion companion flange, remove the pinion
nut and washer.
(9) Use Remover C-452 and Wrench C-3281 to
remove the pinion companion flange.
(10) Use Remover 7794-A and slide hammer to
remove the pinion shaft seal (Fig. 14).
(11) Remove the front pinion bearing using a pair
of suitable pick tools to pull the bearing straight off
the pinion gear shaft. It may be necessary to lightly
tap the end of the pinion gear with a rawhide or rubber
mallet if the bearing becomes bound on the pinion
shaft.
(12) Remove the collapsible spacer

 

I'm really curious to see if you try this. Seems like a LOT of specialized tools.

I just rebuilt a junkyard HP 30, and it took a pipe, a 4lb sledge and about 20 minutes to get the outer race out. (The pinion literally pushed out of the bearing with hand pressure!) And, because it was a high pinion, it completely wrecked the baffle.

 

I'm really curious to see if you try this. Seems like a LOT of specialized tools.

I just rebuilt a junkyard HP 30, and it took a pipe, a 4lb sledge and about 20 minutes to get the outer race out. (The pinion literally pushed out of the bearing with hand pressure!) And, because it was a high pinion, it completely wrecked the baffle.

 

Thanks for the reply. I researched those tools and instead of purchasing I would fabricate something similar out of other gear/seal pullers and material. Besides the race, getting the yoke off the pinion seems like the tricky part.

I could risk attempting to not replacing the race if it is acceptable, just the bearing and new seal. But that would be last resort, just to get by. And I would guess that a bearing and race would be a matched set.

Other option is replace it with a salvage axle.

 

I would imagine that pulling the yoke would be alright with a

 

As I'm currently rebuilding my newly acquired Dana 30 and 44, couldn't imagine trying to remove the outer pinions bearing and race without opening the pumpkin and removing the carrier. Really isn't bad. I just removed my front pinion to assess why I couldn't get any preload friction, and found that the outer bearing slides easily off and on. Did the same with the new bearing as well so I'll be shopping for a new 4.56 ring and pinion set

 

I need to do this at some point, easy to do in a driveway? I would think a simple punch will knock the races out and a rubber mallet to tap the new races in. My time has a good amount of play.