Well my jeep is 2wd and i just got a rebuilt divorced dana 24 with 3:1 low and hardend steel gears with under 100 miles on it! I have a plan to put it in and wanted yalls input.
Sense it is devorved i can use my 2wd trans due to the fact that it has a yoke output. I would move the crossmember back and add some sort of suport under the trans right where it connects to the motor.
Ill move the cat back a bit to acomidate for the moved crossmember. Also I would have a longer front drive shaft and a short rear, but thats ok? I have a custom rear i would cut to fit up front and id get a stock front to put in my rear.
Only issue is it doesnt have a lever through the floor system so id have to get out and get under to drop into 4wd by hand, but thats a ton better than 2wd. But this way i wont have to get a trans from a 4wd that has a shaft output.
What yall think?

 

I think your rear shaft is going to be really short and if you lift it it'll prob bind.

 

Isnt the front drive shaft on a cherokee have some slide thingy like a cv shaft? Thatll be my rear shaft so im not worried about up travel.
Becide it would still be longer than the rear shaft of a Wrangler, my buddies is short as hell and his is lifted 4 inches with no vibe problems

 

There is not enough room for a divorced t-case, jack shaft, and drive shaft. Not worth the headache in my opinion.

 

I'll line stuff up an see how much room I have when I get home next weekend. I dint mind fab, that's free. A different t-case and trans needed for it is not though.
Think if I go straight from the yoke on my 2wd trans to the one on the Tcase then I may be fine.

 

You'll need to knock your jackshaft working length down to about an inch, and you'd do a good deal better if you use a 4WD version of your transmission anyhow - that's going to knock 4"-6" off of the OAL of the assembly as well. May as well marry 'em up.

The problem is that you've only got a 101" wheelbase to work with, and the front axle is only a few inches behind the front of the engine. You're going to lose a lot of space that way.

As far as the driveshaft - it's not just articulation. The rear driveshaft won't bind because it's too long or too short, it will bind because you're going to exceed the operating angle of the Cardan joints in the first place. This is why a driveshaft package needs to be kept fairly short - the operating angle range of the Cardan joint is fairly limited (the Double Cardan is used to improve that - it will not-quite double the available angle,) but the DC assembly is a big knuckle that is more complex than you'd want everywhere (which has much to do with why it's not used very much - typically, just the front output on the transfer case.)

 

Well in the moc ups the front angle is going to be fine, i may look more into the double cardin joint for the rear, the angle will be kinda steep but like i said ill measure it out next weekend an see how much room i have to work with.
If there isnt enough i can easly trade this suped T-case for a 231 and possible a little on a 4x4 trans. I just really like the 3:1 low gear i has

The rear drive shaft from a wrangler might be even better, its short and looks like it has a DC.