I'm looking to buy a Cherokee in the next several months. Will be my first non passenger car, so as I look through this forum I'll also go ahead and just ask for the info im after.

Would like to hear some experts' (you) advice on what aspects of a Cherokee I need to pay particular attention to when buying a new one. I'm a bit concerned due to this being a vehicle more prone to a rougher use profile, though as I understand they are very durable.

What areas or parts are the weak points to check when determining the shape and quality of the vehicle? Points prone to failure or that may show the signs more obviously if it's been ridden harder than usual.

Any particular year or trim level have anything compelling over the pack? If not I'll be looking for a 2001 of any trim level with the 4.0 that's in good shape.

Anything else I am not thinking to ask that should be a consideration?

Thanks for any advice you share, I'm really looking forward to this!

- chad

 

'00-'01 have the 0331 head cracking issue and as with most any 11+ year old vehicle, previous owner neglect is always an issue. Pop the rad cap (motor COLD, what color is coolant), shine a flash light in the oil fill hole (look for sludge), check other fluids, and wipe dip sticks (motor & tranny) clean. Do the dip sticks appear stained/caked on crud? Good luck and presume the PO did nothing regarding maintenance......git 'er done bumper-2-bumper.

 

In my opinion 1997-1998 Are the best years. Also be sure to check for rust. I don't know where you live so that may not be an issue, but check the floors, rockers, and other parts under the vehicle for rust. Some surface rust is expected but be sure to make sure that there aren't a lot of holes due to rust.

 

+1 or early-mid '99 years.... '99 years made after 6/99 had the 0331 heads and you can tell if it has ignition coil.

 

Check the floorboards for rust. Evan in Texas my 87 had floor board rust

 

Honestly the main ways I've looked at how a PO treated the vehicle is fluids (like DJB said) and look at the shocks. Are they original? I'm amazed at the number of XJ's still running factory shocks 13+ years after the vehicle was made.

 

Along with the above mentioned, I would check all the connections, terminals and grounding points. If you buy one and raise it, check your brake line length for articulation. Even if it's not perfect, you can go through and fix or replace things along the way and you'll be pleased with the result. My 89 is about to hit 240k miles, still runs good and I still love it.

 

This is important. Be sure to carefully inspect the underbody.

I've looked at classic cars before that the seller said had been stored inside, never saw rain or snow... Well, the top side was mint, but the underbody was COMPLETELY rusted out because of the moisture in the concrete floor. Any vehicle stored inside or left sitting on one spot will rot out from the bottom up over time.

 

If it's a 4x4 be sure to make sure it works, check all the buttons, *****, windows doors and lights, if you find that something dose'nt work properly it may not be a big deal to fix but could help you negotiate a better deal.

 

This!

When I was looking I crawled under everyone I went to inspect.
I kept a screwdriver in my pocket so I could poke around at the undercoating to be sure there weren’t any hidden surprises.
I passed on a few rust buckets until I found a relatively clean XJ will very little surface rust.

 

Look for Mickey Mouse wiring and hacked up electrical repairs. If the PO didn't take the time to do a clean install for stuff like lights and winches, chances are pretty good he didn't take care of the rest of the vehicle. Duct tape should not be holding stuff together either.

 

Thanks everyone for the tips. Any particular spots other than floorboard area that tend to rust underneath? I.e. statistically more common here than there?

With the 00-01 having a gasket problem...

Any major differences in parts or performance between the 2dr and 4dr? Or is it just preference and one being a bit longer?

 

AVOID AT ALL COSTS 1984-1986 Cherokees, and I would recommend against 88-90 Cherokee because they had issues with overheating and they have closed cooling system. 1990-1994 did not have airbags. 1984-1996 had issues with rear main seal leaking at high mileage, this was fixed on the 97-01 model years. 1996 and earlier had fiberglass rear hatches too, which can crack. Shoot for a Cherokee with a trans cooler(tow package) if you can too. 1998-1999 are the best years and the most common year owner on this forum is 1999, second most is 1998, and this isn't just ironic, it's becaus they are the most reliable yeas.

 

^ Most 4.0s at high mile age are going to leak from the rear main seal check floors even do a car fax if you need to and ask alot of questions and what were telling you on here now like if its a 2000 or a 2001 ask has it ever over heated or had the head replaced little things like that

 

Look under the driver side fender well and see if you can see the fuel filler neck, if so, the cover that is there or isn't is usually the first thing to rust away on late model cherokees. its really not that important unless you do some extreme wheeling in the woods or around some really jagged rocks.