Confused with electric window problems -_-
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Hay guys so I was driven the jeep yesterday coming home from work. I put both front an rear left windows down for the ten minute ride home.
Got home an all but the rear window would go up, I called my buddy an he said the rear did roll down till about a week ago it started to work. It worked fine for me fora week , I popped the panel off an cleaned all the connection, but I'm not sure what to do now any ideas?
Got home an all but the rear window would go up, I called my buddy an he said the rear did roll down till about a week ago it started to work. It worked fine for me fora week , I popped the panel off an cleaned all the connection, but I'm not sure what to do now any ideas?
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 389
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Inline 6
Could be the window motor.
BUT....Before you drop money on a new motor, try this two step fix -
Disassemble the driver's door, pull the switch box out, open it up, again, and pull ALL the switches apart COMPLETELY! (Yes, for each switch, pull off the switch, the metal rocker, and even the support pins. Get a small file, some emery cloth or even some light sandpaper, and sand every flat metal surface on the rockers and the contact points on the switch plate. (Don't use a dremel, you'll take off too much material (ask me how I know
)). Then wipe EVERYTHING down with acetone, yes, acetone specifically (it evaporates in about a second, so you leave behind NO residue to create a continuing electrical connection that could short stuff out (again, ask me how I know
). Reassemble the switch box, plug in to the connectors test it out. (Make sure you test ALL the windows!)
If that doesn't work, it is on to step two -
. Instead of soldering the short, you can just use an inline wire tap connector (blow out the wall on the end with a small drill bit so both wires will lay inside.) I prefer to use connectors rather than soldering, as the soldering creates a strong point the wire can flex against and eventually break. (I know there are a lot of guys who swear by soldering and refuse to use connections, and they have their reasons, too!) But hey, do it however you want.
For an hour or two of your time, and $5 bucks, you should have the problem licked. If you test it again, and it STILL doesn't go up (but the rest of the windows do) you're probably looking at a window motor.
(The other place to check, since you are pulling the door apart, is the boot cover at the bottom front of the driver (or rear) door, when you pull it open. Pull the boot back into the door, cut the black fabric tape (carefully) around the wire bundle, and check all the wires to make sure they aren't broken. Truthfully, this a colossal PITA and should be avoided if it can be. Not only do you then need to make sure to retape the wire bundles really well or else risk CAUSING a wire to break, I've only seen it be a broken wire there a couple times. Usually the first two methods get it, or it is a motor, issue.)
Good luck
BUT....Before you drop money on a new motor, try this two step fix -
Disassemble the driver's door, pull the switch box out, open it up, again, and pull ALL the switches apart COMPLETELY! (Yes, for each switch, pull off the switch, the metal rocker, and even the support pins. Get a small file, some emery cloth or even some light sandpaper, and sand every flat metal surface on the rockers and the contact points on the switch plate. (Don't use a dremel, you'll take off too much material (ask me how I know
)). Then wipe EVERYTHING down with acetone, yes, acetone specifically (it evaporates in about a second, so you leave behind NO residue to create a continuing electrical connection that could short stuff out (again, ask me how I know
). Reassemble the switch box, plug in to the connectors test it out. (Make sure you test ALL the windows!)If that doesn't work, it is on to step two -
For an hour or two of your time, and $5 bucks, you should have the problem licked. If you test it again, and it STILL doesn't go up (but the rest of the windows do) you're probably looking at a window motor.
(The other place to check, since you are pulling the door apart, is the boot cover at the bottom front of the driver (or rear) door, when you pull it open. Pull the boot back into the door, cut the black fabric tape (carefully) around the wire bundle, and check all the wires to make sure they aren't broken. Truthfully, this a colossal PITA and should be avoided if it can be. Not only do you then need to make sure to retape the wire bundles really well or else risk CAUSING a wire to break, I've only seen it be a broken wire there a couple times. Usually the first two methods get it, or it is a motor, issue.)
Good luck
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the info I'll have to try these tomorrow . I wonder why it randomly came on for a week then went out kinda weird. I'm gonna check the wiring more cus they might have swapped this door onto it, cus they did the passenger side one an some other pieces on the jeep
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