Jesus, you all always jump on people with negativity. Like I said welding would be a better approach, I know this. And as I said, I'm kicking the idea around

 

You are wanting a DD/trail rig? if you want a pick up, go buy a ****ing pickup....Dont hack up an xj

 

Kma. Its my xj. you have no idea what it will turn out like, neither will i till it happens.

 

Hey man, you're getting negativity due to the fact it's honest to everything green and good a straight up bad plan. To be honest you were actually told this in a pretty nice manner.

Let me ask you a serious question here, are you really willing to do something like this then risk your life and countless others down the road every time you get behind the wheel?

If not done properly it's flat out dangerous, not only to you but others as well. Glue, silicone, nor any other type of adhesive or sealant is going to make this work in an acceptable fashion.

I for one don't wanna be in and or around an xj when it's poorly crafted mod fails and the unibody folds in on itself. Imagine that at highway speed...or an accident, you really wanna be counting on glue and silicone to save your life? That's not even including any offroad stress...

Bottom line, you've nicely gotten "negativity" because it's a terrible unsafe plan. Let it go.

 

There is also chop top threads going in the fab section. If look over there you will find a lot of good info

 

Look at my build among the many others that have chopped and ask them.
Most if not all will say you will need at least a welded back wall and a roll bar
The rest will say you need all that and frame stiffeners.
Then there are two dudes that say no welding or window or roll bars but its their trail rig only.

You can not, and I stress this part, can not!!!! Find any adhesive that will be even half as strong AND/OR long lasting as a weld.
One can be had for $40 on craigs and runs flux core wire so no need for gas.
Just be prepared to grind a lot of ugly welds down smooth.
You will spend more on a good mask (pay the extra $10 for auto darkening!!!!) gloves, slag/chipping hammer, arm leathers, shoulder apron, and maybe even a flash blanket.
Small extinguisher is not a bad idea either lol
Get some scrap metal from anywhere and practice on it before you even cut the top.
YouTube vids help alot.
Simple really.

 

 

you can spend a few hundred on some crazy high tech glue or a few hundred on a welder. and the welder will allow you to make a nicer finished product that wont fall apart. and you can keep using the welder for future projects

 

hahahah this has to be one of the funniest threads

 

I say rivets. Get the small aluminum ones. Spit on the metal first and then use the rivets. The spit will harden and the rivet will hold it in place. Report back once you do these steps.

On second thought, just use duck tape. That **** will hold anything together

 

Guess i should've clarified, If i Would actually do this, it would be a trail Rig only With a roll bar.

 

it will still fall apart, make horrendous noises and you will wish you listened to the people on the internet.

 

KTM is right.

There are 10 people telling you its not a good idea and your the only one still trying to justify it. (and getting mad because the are telling you so....I mean, you asked right?)

There is no justifying it. Build it right, or keep it off the roads that me, my family, and everyone on here drives on.



So even though I think its a terrible idea, you may still run with it. I will suggest using fiberglass instead of super glue.......

 

Again as I and many others have stated
If u want a trail rig just leave it open
If you want a back window WELD ONE IN
Its simple
And as dude above stated,
If you absolutely can not justify getting a welder and u still want a back window, use fiberglass over wire mesh.
It will hold, for now, but not like metal.
AND PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE
post up pics of it when finished and then post pics a week later when its cracked in half like an egg over rocks on a trail.

 

this is a properly built chop.. and i still get stress cracks.

reinforced back wall with cross brace.


plated U channels


complete cage... which im now extending into the bed to help make it a little more ridgid.