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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:15 PM
  #16  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Sounds practical, and the XJ will be far more comfortable on the road. The 8" longer wheelbase makes a dramatic difference in stability when going over bumps, potholes, expansion gaps, and around turns.
If you're interested in 37s, plan on an axle swap in the future. A Ford 8.8 rear would serve you well, and the swap can be done cheaply (compared to other options).
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Sounds practical, and the XJ will be far more comfortable on the road. The 8" longer wheelbase makes a dramatic difference in stability when going over bumps, potholes, expansion gaps, and around turns. If you're interested in 37s, plan on an axle swap in the future. A Ford 8.8 rear would serve you well, and the swap can be done cheaply (compared to other options).
I've always liked the 37s but they only look right under certain vehicles. And like I said 33s make look just fine. It ain't gotta be huge I just want ground clearance, and a good ability to go where I want. Thanks for the help
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:48 PM
  #18  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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No problem. I'm happy to help with any other questions you have
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:52 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
No problem. I'm happy to help with any other questions you have
one more quick question. As far as the transmission goes. Does the a/t or manual trans make a difference. I always heard it did, if so is it a big difference?
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Old Feb 28, 2015 | 09:59 PM
  #20  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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What you buy with determine what gears you have. Gears will make a big difference once you change tire size, but the problem will be about the same either way, relative to where you started.

Offroad, most honest people will tell you automatic is astoundingly easy. Manual can be wheeled, but it is a lot more work, and there are certain tricks you can't do. On the other hand, folks with manuals like to install a thumb throttle on the shifter to assist with those deficiencies.

In the end, it comes down to what you want. Like driving stick? Buy one. Not your thing? Buy an auto. Don't care? Buy whatever you get a deal on.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 07:29 AM
  #21  
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
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i have both. i wheel both.

the xj is definitely a more comfortable ride with a lot more room for gear.

as far as the axles, engine and transmission goes, they're the same as what comes offered in the wrangler, with the exception of the sahara (rear 44 optional) and the rubicon (front and rear 44/lockers).

one good thing the xj has offered is the 8.25. stronger than the 35.


as for wheeling, i like both. they each have their pros and cons.
tight trails, i would take the tj over the xj, but with ruts and off camber, i prefer the xj.

driving on the street, i like the xj. it is much smoother, but i'm sure with the proper setup in the tj, that could improve.

as far as top and doors off, i rarely do that anymore. i leave the hardtop on all the time and hardtop on with doors off is like an xj with doors off, kinda like clown shoes, or socks with sandals, or a belt with suspenders...

top and doors off the tj is more of a girls thing.
...so yeah, tj's are more of a girls jeep.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 07:50 AM
  #22  
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I think Im the only person that actually doesnt like the fact that you cant have the Wrangler with a solid , metal, non removal roof.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 07:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by helmut
I think Im the only person that actually doesnt like the fact that you cant have the Wrangler with a solid , metal, non removal roof.
? Mail jeep?
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 08:29 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by caronaxtr
? Mail jeep?
Like a TJ unlimited or a 4door JK with a tin top, and no factory cage inside so you could have room inside for transporting stuff (or weld a real cage if you choose) Just saying it would suit me better. I never took the roof off of a wrangler I had. I did however crack the plastic hardtop and tore the softtops into rags on trees while wheeling. The xj roof just dents a bit and in many cases gets no damage at all when you rub it against trees.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 10:46 AM
  #25  
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From: Monett, MO.
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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When looking for an XJ shop for a 97-99 models as they have a the strongest rear differential a Chy 8.25 29 spline axle you don't want the D35. They also have the HPD30's in the front 00-01 had a LPD30 as a lot of other problems so avoid if possible. Engines the 4.0 I6 is the best with the AW4 auto trans (IMHO) and the NP231 TC.


The 99 had the best of all the improvements before the XJ's hit the newer models that had issues.


I have both a 99 Cherokee and a 04 Grand Cherokee "Overland" its my DD and the XJ is mostly all off road. The GC does ok with mild of roading and has all equipment for it from factory it is stock.
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Old Mar 1, 2015 | 12:59 PM
  #26  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by caged
as far as the axles, engine and transmission goes, they're the same as what comes offered in the wrangler, with the exception of the sahara (rear 44 optional) and the rubicon (front and rear 44/lockers).
Any TJ with the Tow Package or the 30" Wheel & Tire Package got a rear D44 and 3.73 gears. All LJs have a D44 and 3.73s. Rubicons have 4.10s and a rear D44, but the front axle isn't a real D44; it's a hybrid with D30 parts in it.

D44 wasn't an option on any YJ to my knowledge.

I ride with no doors or windows (just a Safari top) most of the year. I just put my metal doors on two weeks ago because I was driving in sub-zero (°F) to and from work every day. I still haven't put the plastic windows in the top. You couldn't pay me to use a hardtop, but that's why there are so many different options and accessories.
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 12:13 AM
  #27  
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
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not all true. my tj came with tow package, 30 inch rubber and 3.73, but with a d35 trac-lok (lsd).

and yeah, i know the tj rubi front 44 was a 44 with d30 outers/unit bearings, but all the rest was 44 innards. still a whole lot better than just a d30.
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 12:17 AM
  #28  
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From: Fort Bliss, TX
Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0L I6
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I think the cherokee is a good mix of function and fun, but if you're just looking for an off-road toy, I'd lean towards the Wrangler. Just my two cents.
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 01:51 AM
  #29  
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From: Missoula, MT
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
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This is my experience based solely on my family's rigs and other people I wheel with. I dont know enough about CJs/YJs to comment on them. I haven't been a part of building any.

First off, In stock form, A Rubicon JK is the most capable stock vehicle Jeep ever made. Hands down.

My grandfather has a 2003 TJ. He has a 3.25" Rough country lift, 33" tires, Rubicon D44 rear with locker, XJ HP d30, Smittybilt hardtop+bumpers+fenders. Winch/cb etc. I helped him build it the entire way. Here is my take.
+ Doors and roof come off easily.
+ Look cool and you almost always get the Jeep Wave
+\- Short wheelbase- Sometimes it helps him, sometimes it hurts him. All the 2door wranglers Ive wheeled with have gotten high centered more than everyone else.
- Due to short wheelbase, higher lifts are costly and loose effectiveness. Driveshaft angle gets worse and worse the higher you go as control arm angles.
- Ride quality. Every TJ I have ever ridden en (even those with longarms/expensive shocks) ride worse than my XJ/families JKs.
- If you don't have a Rubicon, More than likely you'll have a LP30/D35C.
+ you can fit fairly large tires without much trimming compared to an XJ.
- Usually overpriced to begin with
- Bumpers mount low
- Tiny inside

I have a 1999 XJ, 6.5" LA Bilsteins, stroker, XJ D44 W/ARB, Bumpers sliders etc. 35" tires
+ Very cheap initial cost
+ Parts are cheapest for XJs of the 3
+ Very light- Actually lighter than a TJ in stock form
- Unibody in stock form is weak
- Have to lift high or trim substantially to fit larger tires
+ Once lifted, Impressive amounts of ground clearance
+/- Narrow/long footprint- Helps in some hurts in some. Being long and narrow makes it the most sketchy at high speeds in a wind with lift.
+ Decent amount of interior space.
- Leaf Springs in the rear.
+ D44/8.25 came rear and can be found much cheaper than the Rubicon axles can be, HPD30 front on most.

My father/Uncle both have lifted 4 door JKs. Both have 35" tires, 4.5" mid-arm Rock Krawler lifts. Dad has king shocks, Uncle has bilsteins. With have bumpers, armor etc. Lockers
+ The JK D44 R+P are significantly larger than the XJ/TJ D44 and an estimated 30% stronger.
+ Rubicrawler is Awesome
+ Tons of parts available, more being developed.
- Parts are the most expensive of the 3.
- Initial cost is much higher than an XJ.
+/- Widest track- Usually beneficial, occasionally not. COG is great.
- The minivan engine the used to come with made them a pig... New one is better but they are heavy.
+Doors/roof come off
+Most spacious interior
- Engine is not as reliable as 4.0
+ They both had 35s without trimming at 2" of lift.

My sister has a lifted Liberty but no one cares about that haha.

Heres my take... I have wheeled with a bunch of all of them. I would not personally buy a TJ. The initial cost is way more than you get out of it. (at least here) The interior is miserably small unless you are miserably alone They ride pretty rough.

I really like the 4 door JKs. Say what you will about them but they are easily made great... if you have the cash. I honestly think they are the best of the 3 all around and think you can probably make them the best if funds were unlimited.

The reason I have not bought a JK is the cost. Not that I don't have the money, just that you can build an awesome XJ for the cost of bare bones JK let alone a Rubicon. If you completely destroy your XJ, you can buy another with a blown engine for a couple hundred and swap your parts over. On top of that, I like the way a lifted XJ looks the best.

When it comes to wheeling, I can easily outdo my grandfathers TJs in almost every scenario. I can take harder routes and get through the stuff he struggles with easily. We have about the same total investment. I know there are some out there that are substantially more capable but most have alot of cash in them.

Occasionally, the JKs will get the best of me. The Rubicrawler really is nice as is the wide stance. With the stroker/light weight, I am probably the best in snow/mud. I have the best departure/approach angle ad my bumpers are much higher. Since mine was much less of an investment, I am probably also the most aggressive which gets me through some things they wont.

Sorry for the novel haha. Just my opinion but the XJ is the most cost effective option. TJs should be avoided. JKs are great if you have an expendable income.

Last edited by Ianf406; Mar 2, 2015 at 02:04 AM.
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 11:12 AM
  #30  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Good list, but one point I'd like to make: I'm tired of everyone talking about how overpriced Wranglers are. They're obviously more expensive, but the market determines the value. They hold their value extremely well, so I don't understand what the problem is with cost.

If you can't afford it or don't want to pay for one, that's fine. But you can't tell me a YJ is overpriced when you can resell it in ten years for the same amount or possibly more
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