Buying an XJ
#1
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Buying an XJ
Going to begin the hunt for my first XJ sometime in the next 3 weeks or so. I think im pretty mechanically inclined but theres always that one thing that you miss when checking out a vehicle. I could search for all of this but I figure it would be easier to have it all in one place.
Im going to be going for a 91+ with a the 4.0 HO and preferrably a 5speed
My questions are
*What are some common/uncommon problems to look for with an XJ?
*Is there a big difference in axles?
*Have read they goto around 300k miles which alot of the ones around here have about 170k-220k for $1500-$3000ish, any insight on this?
*Is there anything with XJ that seems/looks bad but isnt really anything to worry about like loud lifters etc?
*Feel free to add anything else XJ related, this is all I can think of right now.
Thanks,
Kendall
Im going to be going for a 91+ with a the 4.0 HO and preferrably a 5speed
My questions are
*What are some common/uncommon problems to look for with an XJ?
*Is there a big difference in axles?
*Have read they goto around 300k miles which alot of the ones around here have about 170k-220k for $1500-$3000ish, any insight on this?
*Is there anything with XJ that seems/looks bad but isnt really anything to worry about like loud lifters etc?
*Feel free to add anything else XJ related, this is all I can think of right now.
Thanks,
Kendall
#2
Personally, if I could got back, I would choose a 1999 XJ, they still had the high pinion axle of the older XJ's but with all the the good stuff of the newer Cherokee's, plus the power and better looks (for women) of the newer XJ's. Either way, can't go wrong with an XJ. DON'T get a 2000 or a 2001, they like to crack heads, 1999 is by far the best choice possible IMO.
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Good to know, I figure since im going to be spending a decent amount (to me atleast ~$1600+) I dont want to just settle for whatever I find.
#4
Good luck finding a 5 speed, that's definitely the route to go if you can find one (less parts to break and easier to repair). For ~$1600 you're probably going to be looking at a higher mileage model which isn't a big deal for these motors you'll just want to take an extra close look at it.
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If I did it all over again... I would get a 98 or lower for the cheapest price you can find. Most anything wrong with it you can fix cheap just watch out for the rust if your in the north like me. Buy cheap and spend your money on after market parts. Go with a 4.5 lift with all the extras right away. Reliable lift with 33's
#7
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
I looked for months before I found my 95 5 speed. Totally worth it, I would never buy a Jeep without one, but prepare to look longer and spend more for a 5 speed in good condition.
Also, in those months I saw exactly one 98-99 4 door with a 5 speed that was worth buying (stock, good condition, good price), and he sold it in less than a day to someone else. Those are very hard to find.
Also, in those months I saw exactly one 98-99 4 door with a 5 speed that was worth buying (stock, good condition, good price), and he sold it in less than a day to someone else. Those are very hard to find.
Last edited by apac020; 02-22-2013 at 10:31 AM.
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#9
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cyl
rust on unibody i find to be a no go but rust on like the floor pans relativley easy fix and i agree on 5spd but if you want it def worth the wait and pre 96 all the way true box who needs rounded tailights for 2-3 is a good price to get something in good shape pretty rust free IMHO but keep us posted on what you find........
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So I can do a 4" lift for cheap, im not rich (come on lotto ) so what im looking at doing is;
(x2) 1.75" coil spacers $35 (pair)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...pn=R%2fERE1334
(x2) 2" Lift blocks $40 (pair)
http://www.jcwhitney.com/lift-block-...63y1995g26u0j1
Trying to find 2" spacers for the front and do 2 on each side so it would make the front 4". So without shocks it would be around $150 for this budget lift, if anyone has any better ideas for a 4inch lift please throw it out there. Possibly with websites too, all I know are the two following sites
My other question is, will I need to extend the brake lines for a 4"? I've read contradicting things, just want to make sure. As for tires, im looking at some either 31" or 33" super swamper ltb's
(x2) 1.75" coil spacers $35 (pair)
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits...pn=R%2fERE1334
(x2) 2" Lift blocks $40 (pair)
http://www.jcwhitney.com/lift-block-...63y1995g26u0j1
Trying to find 2" spacers for the front and do 2 on each side so it would make the front 4". So without shocks it would be around $150 for this budget lift, if anyone has any better ideas for a 4inch lift please throw it out there. Possibly with websites too, all I know are the two following sites
My other question is, will I need to extend the brake lines for a 4"? I've read contradicting things, just want to make sure. As for tires, im looking at some either 31" or 33" super swamper ltb's
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Ok I read some more about blocks with XJ leafs and it sounds like a bad idea so could someone please explain bastard packs to me like I was a 5 year old.
*Do bastard packs use the existing leafs along with the others
*Do they use the same leaf hangers
not understanding them for the most part
Just dont want to run into more problems down the road
(love how im talking about a jeep like I have one already lol)
*Do bastard packs use the existing leafs along with the others
*Do they use the same leaf hangers
not understanding them for the most part
Just dont want to run into more problems down the road
(love how im talking about a jeep like I have one already lol)
#12
Serious Offroad has 3.5" lift Rubicon Express coils for $110.36. Much better option than spacers, especially stacked spacers.
Blocks themselves are bad enough, stacked blocks are something you just shouldnt do at all. I'd do shackles and an AAL for the rear, or full replacement springs. If the stock springs are sagging, go ahead and put new leaves in it. I went with Quadratec HD leaves in the rear, to replace my sagging worn out springs, which gave me 1.5" of lift as well. Once I add my 2" shackles, I'll be at 3.5" in the rear, to match the 3.5" coils I'm putting in.
Blocks themselves are bad enough, stacked blocks are something you just shouldnt do at all. I'd do shackles and an AAL for the rear, or full replacement springs. If the stock springs are sagging, go ahead and put new leaves in it. I went with Quadratec HD leaves in the rear, to replace my sagging worn out springs, which gave me 1.5" of lift as well. Once I add my 2" shackles, I'll be at 3.5" in the rear, to match the 3.5" coils I'm putting in.
#13
And just to throw this out there, LTBs will wear out quick on the road. Ive had them before, and they were bald in about the same amount of time as my Boggers were, around 10k miles, maybe 11k tops.
Great performing tires, but TSLs seem to last a little longer, and they're close to the same price.
As far as the size, I'd stick with 31's unless you want to regear it. Sounds like you're not wanting to spend much money, so 33's plus regearing both axles might be a little more than you want to spend.
Great performing tires, but TSLs seem to last a little longer, and they're close to the same price.
As far as the size, I'd stick with 31's unless you want to regear it. Sounds like you're not wanting to spend much money, so 33's plus regearing both axles might be a little more than you want to spend.