Bogs down inoverdrive?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 746
Likes: 3
From: here today gone tomorrow
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I need more details.
I can tell you that there are (3) solenoids. S1 and S2 are shift solenoids and the trans shifts 1-2-3-4 depending upon which solenoids are on or off. S3 is the lockup solenoid for the TC. On my '96 Sport you can watch the tach as it shifts 1-2-3-4 and then locks up. At light throttle 1-2 is 20mph, 2-3 is 30mph, 3-4 is 40mph and lockup at 45mph. 4th is a .75 OD on the post '91 AW4s and the earlier are .70 OD.
Is it not unlocking? Is it not downshifting consistently? Are there specific gears where it doesn't seem to downshift?
Have you adjusted the kickdown cable?
When my S1 was going and then finally quit, it would intermittently not downshift when stopping, and later wouldn't downshift and required manually selecting 1-2 to pull out. At the same time it would not downshift to 2nd automatically, and lockup was erratic at best.
Does it always shift 1-2-3-4 properly?
I can tell you that there are (3) solenoids. S1 and S2 are shift solenoids and the trans shifts 1-2-3-4 depending upon which solenoids are on or off. S3 is the lockup solenoid for the TC. On my '96 Sport you can watch the tach as it shifts 1-2-3-4 and then locks up. At light throttle 1-2 is 20mph, 2-3 is 30mph, 3-4 is 40mph and lockup at 45mph. 4th is a .75 OD on the post '91 AW4s and the earlier are .70 OD.
Is it not unlocking? Is it not downshifting consistently? Are there specific gears where it doesn't seem to downshift?
Have you adjusted the kickdown cable?
When my S1 was going and then finally quit, it would intermittently not downshift when stopping, and later wouldn't downshift and required manually selecting 1-2 to pull out. At the same time it would not downshift to 2nd automatically, and lockup was erratic at best.
Does it always shift 1-2-3-4 properly?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 746
Likes: 3
From: here today gone tomorrow
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
By the time its shifted 1-2-3-4 both shift solenoids have been on and off, so it doesn't seem logical to be a shift solenoid problem. You could unplug the TCU or pull its fuse and try shifting manaully. 1-2 will get you 1st unless you exceed 4500 rpm, 3 will get you 3, and D will get you 4th. I wouldn't shift into 4th until 40mph minimum.
If you were to shift from 3 to D at 50-55mph manually and it still bogged, I would be inclined to think it some internal trans issue.
Did you regear to compensate for the tires?
PM me for the AW4 manuals if you want 'em
If you were to shift from 3 to D at 50-55mph manually and it still bogged, I would be inclined to think it some internal trans issue.
Did you regear to compensate for the tires?
PM me for the AW4 manuals if you want 'em
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 746
Likes: 3
From: here today gone tomorrow
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
PM your email address for the manuals.
The problem just started, eh? How is your voltage? Timing is set by the ecu. I'm thinking it has something to do with driving under load at lowish RPMs, but not likey the trans.
The problem just started, eh? How is your voltage? Timing is set by the ecu. I'm thinking it has something to do with driving under load at lowish RPMs, but not likey the trans.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
From: Newport News,VA
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 H.O.
When was your last tune up? Gap, and plugs look ok?
After I did a full ignition tune up, I noticed a lot more power and usefulness out of OD. Went from barely having power to being able to accelerate from 40mph in OD like a boss.
Old plugs were Accel, new ones are NGK.
After I did a full ignition tune up, I noticed a lot more power and usefulness out of OD. Went from barely having power to being able to accelerate from 40mph in OD like a boss.
Old plugs were Accel, new ones are NGK.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 587
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From: Barney Georgia
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Do your RPMs climb but your speed drops? If this happens, odds are your trans is slipping. I had a 1987 Toyota Corolla 4 speed auto that would do that on the OD upshift. It would hit 4th (OD) then I would lose wheel speed but engine speed would continue to climb. Check your trans fluid. If it is a brownish color and smells bad, your trans is toast.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 746
Likes: 3
From: here today gone tomorrow
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If its workin' with the TCU out, its an electronic issue rather than internal. Items in play are the TCU, TPS, VSS, NSS, and the brake pedal switch. The brake pedal switch will cause the TC to UNLOCK, so that probably isn't the issue.
Now that you have the manual, unplug the 8 pin connector (black?) near the trans dipstick. The end going towards the trans goes to the NSS. Follow the chart in the manual to make sure you have continuity where you need it, and not where you don't want it. If the NSS proves OK, then its probably the TPS or VSS. I would suspect the TPS even if you just replaced it.
You can test the TPS with a VOM, but its easier to see a continuous sweep with an analog meter than with a digital. You should have 3 wires. 5v input, ground and an output. With the ignition ON, but engine not running, see which wire is which. Verify that your ground is very low resistance. My '96 showed 5-5.1v input, .76v with the throttle closed and 3.76v with the throttle wide open. The transition from closed to wide open should be a smooth, linear increase without flat spots or spikes.
If you have access to another known good TCU of the '92-'96 variety, try swapping it in and see if your TCU is the culprit.
If you need to drive the XJ prior to getting this resolved, use 3 instead of D. You'll be turning more revs and using more fuel, but it won't shift to 4th and bog.
Now that you have the manual, unplug the 8 pin connector (black?) near the trans dipstick. The end going towards the trans goes to the NSS. Follow the chart in the manual to make sure you have continuity where you need it, and not where you don't want it. If the NSS proves OK, then its probably the TPS or VSS. I would suspect the TPS even if you just replaced it.
You can test the TPS with a VOM, but its easier to see a continuous sweep with an analog meter than with a digital. You should have 3 wires. 5v input, ground and an output. With the ignition ON, but engine not running, see which wire is which. Verify that your ground is very low resistance. My '96 showed 5-5.1v input, .76v with the throttle closed and 3.76v with the throttle wide open. The transition from closed to wide open should be a smooth, linear increase without flat spots or spikes.
If you have access to another known good TCU of the '92-'96 variety, try swapping it in and see if your TCU is the culprit.
If you need to drive the XJ prior to getting this resolved, use 3 instead of D. You'll be turning more revs and using more fuel, but it won't shift to 4th and bog.


