Best travel shocks.
I haven't used them myself so I don't know from experience but Detours makes some pretty good stuff. Most guys will say to just get the longer shocks but this is the cheaper alternative. I don't see why it wouldn't work. They are just really large BPE's if you think about it. I'm running 3 inch lift shocks on a 4.5 inch lift right now and the ride is ok but it does limit the down travel. I just got shock extenders from JEGS for the front and it rides alot softer. But you're not supposed to use them for offroading. I'm ordering Zone Nitro Shocks next week in the correct size.
You can get longer shocks and not have to worry about bottoming them out if you bump stop correctly. You should have some sort of bump stop on the front anyway. The problem with really overly long shocks is that when you get the down droop you have the chance of the springs leaving the tower at the top and if you have short arms, the wheels will come down and and come towards the rear of the Jeep. This could be a concern for fender clearance.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I haven't used them myself so I don't know from experience but Detours makes some pretty good stuff. Most guys will say to just get the longer shocks but this is the cheaper alternative. I don't see why it wouldn't work. They are just really large BPE's if you think about it. I'm running 3 inch lift shocks on a 4.5 inch lift right now and the ride is ok but it does limit the down travel. I just got shock extenders from JEGS for the front and it rides alot softer. But you're not supposed to use them for offroading. I'm ordering Zone Nitro Shocks next week in the correct size.
You can get longer shocks and not have to worry about bottoming them out if you bump stop correctly. You should have some sort of bump stop on the front anyway. The problem with really overly long shocks is that when you get the down droop you have the chance of the springs leaving the tower at the top and if you have short arms, the wheels will come down and and come towards the rear of the Jeep. This could be a concern for fender clearance.
You can get longer shocks and not have to worry about bottoming them out if you bump stop correctly. You should have some sort of bump stop on the front anyway. The problem with really overly long shocks is that when you get the down droop you have the chance of the springs leaving the tower at the top and if you have short arms, the wheels will come down and and come towards the rear of the Jeep. This could be a concern for fender clearance.
Apparently the ones from JEGS (the little ones that go on top) are only made of aluminum and can crack just like using aluminum blocks under the rear leaf packs. Atleast this is what I was told. I'm hoping there is another trail ride soon so I can try them out like this. If they work, I'd keep the shocks I have now and save a little money for other stuff. I'll post what happens when I finally go out. Those ones from Detours do look really strong. Their other stuff is why not them? I almost bought them but they have to make them to order. They don't stock them. I'm tired of waiting 4 weeks for Jeep parts so I purchased the JEGS ones. Got em in 2 days.
Dude, that XJ Flexes SWEET!!! I see what you mean about the rear though. And you even have the extended shackles on there to help it out. Unfortunatley, you're only gonna droop down in the rear as far as the rear leaf will stretch. You can't take it any further. The only other thing I could think that you could do is blocks (which is another debate all together) or Teraflex shackles. Only thing is, apparently you get a lot of "body roll" during turns with them. I almost bought a set before doing ALOT of searching on them. Most guys took them off after a very short time. I figured it was someone elses expensive mistake to make.
You're other alternative is going with a coil spring rear setup and doing a long arm for the rear. But that gets costly. If someone knows of another way to get more droop from the rear, I'd love to hear it because I'd like to try it myself.
Fellas,
Keep in mind that no matter what you add to the top or bottom of a shock, you'll still have the exact same amount of piston travle.
Think long and hard before decidiing to use any type of extension. Measure your rig then compare the results with what you really need vs. what you get by adding an adapter of some sort.
Keep in mind that no matter what you add to the top or bottom of a shock, you'll still have the exact same amount of piston travle.
Think long and hard before decidiing to use any type of extension. Measure your rig then compare the results with what you really need vs. what you get by adding an adapter of some sort.
[QUOTE=FrankZ;978486]Fellas,
Keep in mind that no matter what you add to the top or bottom of a shock, you'll still have the exact same amount of piston travle.
QUOTE]
This is true but the travel starts at a different spot giving you more down droop. You do lose uptravel though. Like I said they are a cheap alternative but I'm still going with the correct shocks that are needed.
Keep in mind that no matter what you add to the top or bottom of a shock, you'll still have the exact same amount of piston travle.
QUOTE]
This is true but the travel starts at a different spot giving you more down droop. You do lose uptravel though. Like I said they are a cheap alternative but I'm still going with the correct shocks that are needed.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,097
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
This is true but the travel starts at a different spot giving you more down droop. You do lose uptravel though. Like I said they are a cheap alternative but I'm still going with the correct shocks that are needed.
Last edited by 89whiteXJ; Apr 28, 2011 at 07:38 PM.
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
Dan. for your long arms. It is not so much extention. as compressed length.
When ever I tell anyone to measure for shocks. find out what compressed length you need then get the longest shock you can with that compressed length.
you can always limit down travel with a strap if need be. But when you go off compression length you will get the longest travel shock for your set up.
(generally it is about 5" of up travel at ride height).
as far as rear leaves go, you need to look into shackle relocation box's. allowing the shackle to be at the perfect angle during ride hight will not only help with ride quality but it will also help with droop and flex.
and here is my proof on my short arm kit: 13" travel front, 10" travel rear and I use all 13"/10" and the shocks are not limiting straps or bump stops
When ever I tell anyone to measure for shocks. find out what compressed length you need then get the longest shock you can with that compressed length.
you can always limit down travel with a strap if need be. But when you go off compression length you will get the longest travel shock for your set up.
(generally it is about 5" of up travel at ride height).
as far as rear leaves go, you need to look into shackle relocation box's. allowing the shackle to be at the perfect angle during ride hight will not only help with ride quality but it will also help with droop and flex.
and here is my proof on my short arm kit: 13" travel front, 10" travel rear and I use all 13"/10" and the shocks are not limiting straps or bump stops
Last edited by 96_xj; Apr 30, 2011 at 09:34 AM.
Honorary Moderator
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 16
From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
and a note on bili's shocks vs white body shocks.
bili's have been THE shock that has been unsurpassed as far as being able to specifically valve your shocks, ride quality and longevity.
there is nothing better you can do than to pick up a set of 5150's or even 5100's
bili's have been THE shock that has been unsurpassed as far as being able to specifically valve your shocks, ride quality and longevity.
there is nothing better you can do than to pick up a set of 5150's or even 5100's
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
i got billis on mine and i deff say there worth it i love em! granted i had craptech on mine b4 and they were about as usefull as..... well nothing haha they were horrible :P
Thread Starter
CF Veteran



Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 18,786
Likes: 14
From: CT.
Year: 88
Model: Comanche (MJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
Yea I have the shocks that came with the 6.5 rc lift right now.
I think they are more suited for a 4.5 lol
I'm gonna go with what Frank recommended.
Pricey Yes but you get what you pay for is how I aways looked at it.
I just gotta pay off a couple bills and then I'm ordering.
I think they are more suited for a 4.5 lol
I'm gonna go with what Frank recommended.
Pricey Yes but you get what you pay for is how I aways looked at it.
I just gotta pay off a couple bills and then I'm ordering.



