btw when wiring the amp seperate the power and signal wire's.

I ran my RCA cables down the driver side and then the power down the passenger side. the washer fluid hose is on the passenger side just as a heads up as well (i punctured mine and had to fix it).


also for the amp make sure you fuse off the battery within 12" (6-8" is convient) and then your ground needs to be as short as possible and mounted to the body (no longer than 18" max)

 

Thanks for the info. I got and the plan right now is to mount the back to the bench. No way to mount the amp on it, but I can mount them side-by-side.


Two questions I keep forgetting to ask:

• Is there a way to mount the amp inside the bench? From the back, it feels hollow, but I don't know how much open space is in it.
• Where should I expect rattles? It doesn't need to be perfect, but I don't want it to sound like garbage.

 

well, thats a *****... just typed my response, accidently clicked to another page and now its all gone... lets try this again...

the reason i like putting the amp into a false floor idea is cause it keeps it safley away from grit and sleazy punks... ya know, outta site, outta mind... but the heat is an issue... so just like mounting it to the seatback, there will be extra heat generated/trapped. getting spacers to keep amp raised is an option. i like the look of it mounted where spare tire is.. but its total advertisement for crooks... idk, i make a concerted effort to be stealthy with my stereo when going into parking garages and the like, so mouting amp there is iffy, to me... but what evs... its preference...
now... whats all this about sub firing direction, 96_xj? my understanding is that a sub produces its sound by firing it backwards. what would a front firing sub look like? i do like the nondriectional (downfiring) subs, that design is quite effective. i am genuinely curious, no sarcasm here!!

 

more good advise! idk what was up with my xj when i got it: the PO new enough to do a really clean wiring job, but not enough to know that the rca's and power wire run together will get you feedback. so i had to separate all that stuff. also, soldering the wiring from headunit harness is good. really helps to clean up sound!

 

it is not necessarily the "sub" they are all non directional (sorry If i worded that weird the first time). it is how it is tuned. here is a good article to read up on:

http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html

and 5% tinted windows. no one can see in, and even when doors off they would have to look look to see it.

 

interesting article. some pretty techy stuff well explained (pics help ) but know let me ask this: you said, in retraction, that all subs are essentially non directional (i get that part), but what i dont get is where you said its in the tuning? can you elaborate on this? i know different subs have different frequencies, ranges, etc., but do you mean design wise? like using materials w/ different qualities; flexy vs. stiff, thick vs. thin material? a competition sub wont give you SQ, but you will blow the doors off with db's, that kinda deal?

 

I think he means you need to match the sub, the box, and the amp if you want to get the right sound. And then you need to find the right place to mount the box.

And again, what's gonna rattle?

 

heres why im skeptical about mounting stuff where visible: my buddy back in HS had a nice little civic hatch, rear windows (professionally) tinted out, and i do mean tinted out! ya couldnt see thru with x ray vision... but he went into the mall parking garage bumpin and when he returned, returned to a sad state of affairs... a broken front window and no subs... i think the amp was screwed to seatback, so it survived, but the easy part was the unbolted subs... so idk, it was enough to make me think twice about these things... lucky for him, he was up and bumpin in like a day or two cause he never had to pay for **** himself... (cant help but hate a little... i swear its not jelousy... haha..)

 

Subs require air to work right? well each sub requires a specific amount of air (normally specified online or with mine i got a printed out spec sheet from when they test it). how much air your box has will determine what the best frequency is. you can tune the subs by changing the air volume, say you listen to lower frequencies you can tune to that, higher frequencies, you can tune to that as well.

here is a good test to see what they are tuned to right now:


then also the way the box is shaped it will throw the sound waives accordingly as well as what you have in your jeep/car. a trunk will use a different box and firing angle to get the same effect as in a "station wagon"

 

like my system specifically will hit all notes and well,

the "prime" range for my music is between 80-55hz and i padded the box to make those more prominent.

my jeep doesnt really rattle but 45hz will shake up the rear seat belt hangers and that is it.

and yes you are correct your amp will need to be dialed in as well to match the subs n box. it is all a trial n error and learning how to do it, read up and learn and you will like the way it sounds.

such as I run Diamond audio components with a 4 way amp and they are tuned as well to the subs and visa versa to where nothing is over powering or under powering and most all music is well balanced. the amp does come with a 18db adjustable controller to where I can turn them down or up if need be from the drivers seat tho

 

in a jeep, nothins gonna rattle!! haha.. but yea, as for matching the sub to an amp and having the right size/ported box is crutial.. too big or small with any of these components bad news... funny to think you can fry a sub by underpowering it...
one night we took one of my alpine s-type 10's and took it down to (possibly) under an ohm... wow! thought my headlights were gonna cut out all the way, but damn did she slam!! wooh! (kinda the opposite of underpowering, but ya know...)

 

btw a sealed box will hit tighter, a ported box will do sustained notes better (air flow concept again)

and dont look at other "styles" not worth it

 

there was a kid whos parents gave him a chunk of their settlement and he went right out and got a sick w7 but also got a 1000w mono amp... well, the 1000w is twice what he needed, so he went thru like 2 subs... he also didnt know that ya need to break a sub in, so im sure that helped... oh, if only i had someone elses money to squander...

 

seen some really nice homebrew slot vented boxes, which are my preference over ported..

 

I read the fender flares rattle and it's annoying outside, but I pulled mine already. Just wondering if there would be any issues. And I got the Kicker 10" boxed so I wouldn't have to worry about matching the box to the sub.

My head unit pushes 22W RMS/50Peak per speaker with a dedicated sub line.
Front speakers are 45RMS/90Peak
Rear speakers are 40RMS/240Peak
Sub is 400RMS/800Peak
Mono Amp matches the sub