Aaron N.S.

You should ditch the Shocks and Cables and look into a linear actuator, you can get a 400 lbs force actuator with up to a 40" stroke for $130 and wire it to a 3 way switch that is wired to the back of the truck or get the remote with 2 key fobs for $65 more

http://www.firgelliauto.com/default.php?cPath=93

TANK

i agree with aaron running a air actuated lift would work the best and most reliable. the problem is cost...i dont know what your budget is but thats prob. the safest and most reliable way of doing it just my 2 cents.

-tank

Aaron N.S.

the ones I posted are all electric, although air would work if you have onboard air and don't mind the plumbing.

Ritter4.0

I do have OBA......would 160psi be enough do you think?

Those are both great ideas, but I think I will try the shocks first (already have them) There aren't any cables by the way.

Aaron N.S.

the pressure required is figured by your angles, the way you have it drawn you will need alot of force to overcome the weight because you have little leverage, thats why I don't think just the shocks will work. your lifting 100LBS from less then 1/4 the distance from the pivot point. I don't remember the math to figure out how much force you need to lift that but I'm sure its exponentially more the closer you get to the pivot point.

Ritter4.0

I didn't mention it yet, but the shocks are only going to assist me raising the tire. I'm not sure if you have seen how a driveway basketball hoop locks every few inches that it is raised. I'm gonna use a locking mechanism like that, and it will double as a saftey to prevent it from falling down.

A few days ago, I took one of my old 31" tires on a stock alloy wheel. I used a rachet strap to "mount" it in the position I want a tire. I tried raising the hatch, and the shocks made the tire seem weightless, but couldn't support it. Thats how the shocks on mine should work, while the locking mechanism locks it.

ktmracer419

wow you guys are overcomplicating things.

in my experience i cant keep the fiberglass hatches together with nothing bolted to them nevermind a tire.

and this winch and actuator talk is just silly.

im planning on a swing down that will tie into the roofrack/roof halo when the jeep is in use. should be pretty solid.

another idea is to make a swing out that will bolt to some 1/4 panel armor, should also be plenty solid for ANYTHING.

i'm just not a fan of conventional swingouts that put LOTS of stress and leverage on the factory 8 bumper holes and even with reinforcing, running it along the rails it still doesnt sit well with me. and they can be noisy.

Ritter4.0

The end idea is really simple. It's just gonna be a swing down turned upside down with shocks to help push it up

Aaron N.S.

I really like the idea, don't let the others bring you down

I just don't want to see you put a bunch of work into it just to have to redo it, or worse have it break. What ever you do you will most likely want to mount your pivot point and your shocks and locking mech. to that same plate or you will put alot of strain on your sheet metal, I would definitely avoid mounting anything to the Fiberglass.

Ritter4.0

I'm gonna put as much backplating as possible on the inside of the hatch. Hoping for atleast 3 square inches of plate per bolt. I also plan on using epoxy or some strong glue to hold it on the inside to prevent shifting too.



I still have plenty of time to keep planning this, till I get a job atleast.

posjeepxj

I dont want one but i am thinking about building one now just becase of this thread. im guna do some measuring tomorrow and get back to you with what i think. The only problem that i think i might have is my spare is a maxxis mudzilla. it is one heavy tire

Aaron N.S.

I'm wondering where you can source those lift gate shock, and what kind of tension ratings they have?

Schmoozer

Okay, first off, I LOVE your idea. Second, you're going to destroy your hatch, I believe around 97 (?, please someone correct me) they went back to steel hatches, you may want to go to a pull and pick and find your self a good metal hatch. Third, the hinges will be fine. Four, I agree winches and pulleys are ridiculous. Five, I really don't like the idea of an actuator, it takes away from the whole: pop the hatch, watch it rise; feeling. Six, not sure what background you have in physics, if you haven't had it sign up for it next year (college, highschool, whatever, it will help you out so much). You need to understand moment arms and consider their placement for gas struts. Unfortunately the stock location won't help you much as they are designed to keep the hatch up, in place, more than raise it (SAFETY!) but if your XJ is pre-97 they can be easily upgraded from almost any fullsize mini-van at your local JY. I also bet it wouldn't be hard to add another set above, below, or both around your current struts. Using a couple of assumptions and measurements it wouldn't be hard to figure out the capable weight (assuming you know how much your struts can handle). Seven, I think attaching the whole deal to the hatch is a great idea, I mean when are you going to want to raise the tire but not the hatch? Eight, you're going to need shackles some where should you decide to connect your roof rack to the whole arrangement, different pivot points and all... Nine, PLEASE keep us informed, I would love to recreate this.

Schmoozer

http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-struts/=5kbmvq

DEVILSTOY

you could probly mount it like this ladder is mounted