Ritter4.0

The winch is a good idea, but I think out of my budget once I get the steel. I think I will stick to shocks, and lift it a little myself until they engage like overland said.

And huntingman has a very good point, the stock hatch will catch it if it falls, giving a little bit of time to get out of the way.

Tankerblade

Why not use a hand winch thats used on boat trailers? just stick it on one side of the rack and have a couple pullies that will ensure nothing rubs on anything. Just my two cents

Ritter4.0

I have one of those laying around, but I kinda want it to have the same characteristics of the stock hatch.
-unlatch
-pull a little ( maybe alot with this)
-and the lift struts take over

Quick, simple, and hopefully efficient.

Tankerblade

i see what you mean. but the geometry for those shocks is going to be difficult to figure out.

But keep us updated. Looks like it'd be a really cool deal

builtnotbought89'

U might just want to mount it on the back latch, & replace ur factory shock struts with the monster ones u have!?!? Just another thought!

huntingman2706217

ha... i feel like an idiot now... this would only make sence... and work well... cheap... easy...

builtnotbought89'

Ya X1994J mounted his to the fiberglass lift gate, so that will hold! & then u'll just have to figure out to mount the beefy shock struts!!!

huntingman2706217

if i had a hatch... thats what i would do... lol

Ritter4.0

But his folds down, and does not utilize the factory hatch hinges, which would become the weak link.

But, I could completely flip his set-up. Instead of running a bar all the way to the bumper, make it latch to the hatch. This would cut off a few pounds.

This thing is still in the planning stage, so keep the input and ideas coming. Thanks so far!

builtnotbought89'

Mounting the tire rack to the lift gate, beefing up the lift shocks, & even beefing up the lift gate hinges is still easier/more practical than building the roof rack shock set up bro! Although the safest idea yet is gonna be the winch, but that's kinda to much going on at that point! Just my $0.02

1990cherokee

I love this idea, and when you make it work u can say its urs and it will be different..

huntingman2706217

the stock hatch fittings are beef... and the weight of a tire isnt gonna bother them i wouldnt think at all... alot of the weight sits on the latch when closed anyway... before i chopped my top i took the hatch off... only i couldnt get the bolts off so i cut the hinges off with a sawz all... that wasnt no joke... im pretty sure it would be fine to support just a tire and couple tubes to hold it... no problems at all...

Ritter4.0

I believe that the hinges are strong enough, but the pins holding them together don't look beef enough. Their only like 1/8th inch. I really want to try making my own hatch type deal. I'll figure it out and post how so anybody else who wants to can copy.

huntingman2706217

yeah but a metal pin 1/8in thick sheer strength is really really strong... the doors pins arnt much larger and you can hang from it and itll be alright... well i can and im 200pounds... dont know about any more... but i know i weight more then a tire and some tube... you would be suprised... im not arguing the fact of what you should do... you do what you want... im just saying i think u would be fine...

Ritter4.0

I haven't started building this yet, I need to get a job to buy the steel. I'm just bumping this thread to see if any newcomers or anybody has any input on the idea.

So far it will be tied into the gutters and roof rail holes. Latch to the back of the hatch. And have a roof rack built as low profile as possible with removable sides. At the front of the rack will hopefully be some of those 2"x6" or whatever they are fog lights.

I don't want the rack to stick up off the roof more than 4" when the sides are removed.the bottoms crossrails will probably only be 1" off the roof itself. I already have a plan in my head.