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steering box brace

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Old 08-08-2011, 07:40 PM
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i made this today out of scraps, if there is enough interest i would like to make these to sell, but the cuts will be cleaner and more precise. it is made of 3/4 cold rolled steel and 3/16th plate in the end. it ties into where your tow hooks attach you only need to drill one hole in the unibody right next to where the tow hook attaches. let me know what you think. they would be shipped with all grade 8 hardware and with a black rattle can paint job. i am thinking about 35 bucks plus shipping?



Old 08-08-2011, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dfm_13
i made this today out of scraps, if there is enough interest i would like to make these to sell, but the cuts will be cleaner and more precise. it is made of 3/4 cold rolled steel and 3/16th plate in the end. it ties into where your tow hooks attach you only need to drill one hole in the unibody right next to where the tow hook attaches. let me know what you think. they would be shipped with all grade 8 hardware and with a black rattle can paint job. i am thinking about 35 bucks plus shipping?




I like it..I would go $35 on one...shipped?

Last edited by DaveD; 08-08-2011 at 10:11 PM.
Old 08-08-2011, 10:11 PM
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I like that your trying to make your own parts but you have a big design flaw. you need a bolt on the other side of the steering box cone. this will keep the box from flexing away from the brace and also keeping the brace from bouncing up and down and interfering with the pit. arm.
Old 08-09-2011, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by white91
I like that your trying to make your own parts but you have a big design flaw. you need a bolt on the other side of the steering box cone. this will keep the box from flexing away from the brace and also keeping the brace from bouncing up and down and interfering with the pit. arm.
x2
Old 08-09-2011, 12:22 AM
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x3 . the box side should be a little bit more beeef cake
Old 08-09-2011, 02:16 AM
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I agree with this^ if it had a bolt on the other side like others that are marketed and was just a little beefier than I would be up for one!
Old 08-09-2011, 05:53 PM
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yea i welded another tab on the other side after the pics were taken with another bolt. thanks for pointing that out but i got it covered lol. like a said this was quickly done with scraps. a more complete nicer one will be posted soon.
Old 08-09-2011, 06:03 PM
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also tubing will be stronger then solid as far as bending. might even be cheaper. but i dont know how much force the steering box has. good idea though.
Old 08-09-2011, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dfm_13
i made this today out of scraps, if there is enough interest i would like to make these to sell, but the cuts will be cleaner and more precise. it is made of 3/4 cold rolled steel and 3/16th plate in the end. it ties into where your tow hooks attach you only need to drill one hole in the unibody right next to where the tow hook attaches. let me know what you think. they would be shipped with all grade 8 hardware and with a black rattle can paint job. i am thinking about 35 bucks plus shipping?



If you got the beefcake on the other side as well then count me in, I was just about to order me one. Let me know what's up man.
Old 08-09-2011, 09:55 PM
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Yup! Id be down!
Old 08-09-2011, 10:13 PM
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i have work off tommorow so i am gonna get the final design down. would you guys prefere to mount to the tow hook, which requires to drill a hole or mount to where the sway bar mounts like some of the store bought ones go? the plus is no holes to drill.
Old 08-10-2011, 03:44 PM
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I vote for sway bar mounts
Old 08-10-2011, 04:01 PM
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What kinda angle would we be looking at with the sway bar one vs the other is just straight on
Old 08-10-2011, 04:26 PM
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By his pictures, It looks almost straight across...
Old 08-10-2011, 04:30 PM
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Sway bar mounts !


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