Thanks man.. MY first gear ratio will only be 114:1... Wish I had done the 4 to 1 in the second case now.

As for the HOA... I have been fighting with them for yrs. Luckily the bylaws/covenants were written so losely back in the early 80's that I can drive a mac truck through them. That and to change the by laws they have to have 100% agree to change them and that wil never happen.



Back on topic.. here in a few minutes I wil be going back to the grind to put second t-case in.. this will be interesting since it was a biatch to do that even when the t-case wasnt in the rig

 

got some more work done today.. then it started to thunder. I used an emptey front case as a guide to see how much I had to cut. Then I tried to bench press the sye in place then realised I had to cut more. here is what it looks like




I hope to get more done this weekend..

 

Sounds good. I am building a trail rig, so far I have a 4.0l from a 2001 XJ (freebee), an AW4 ($175), I don't have a transfer case yet but saw a 231 at the JY sitting in the back of a 2000 XJ and the guy wants $60 for it, but I was thinking of going the 203/205 route. Dana 44 front driver side drop and an AMC 20 with drums, both with 3.31 gears. Im thinking of going 4.88's with welded spiders for the 20 and an OX for the 44. Im in so far for close to $400. I am throwing this drivetrain into a...wait for it... Suzuki Samurai body/frame. I am hoping i can get this thing wheeling for less that 3 grand.

Thoughts?

One more thing, if you really want to know your final drive ratio's go here:
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

Plug in all your info and see what you got.

 

I have a Samurai. That 203/205 setup is far too big for a Sammy, the 4.0 is far too long for it along with the AW4 by the time you get it all in you will have a 2 inch rear driveline, have moved the grill forward about a foot or the fire wall back that far and redone the entire floor board and widened the frame for the tcase. Far too impractical. If you want inexpensive axels for the Sammy go with toyota, retain the sammy tcase and use toy drivelines and if you want power use the 4.3L Chevy with 200R4. That is the proven set up.

 

Lookin good man, I'm curious why you didn't just chop up the floor more than needed and then sheetmetal over it after you knew where you did and didn't have clearance though.

 

okay i have been looking into running a doubler for a little while now and just thought of something. i have a dana 60 front axle and corporate 14 bolt rear from a chevy pickup both 4.56 gears so i have a question couldnt i run a 203/ d300 doubler but run the d300 normal instead of flipped so to have my front axle on the passenger side? idk its been a long night at work but right now in my head it seems do able.

sorry to thread jack btw but i was reading this and it got me thinking

 

Like 4.3 posted way too long.. get a 16v tracker motor, toy trans, and double t-case and call it good on some toy axles

I am trying to keep my roll cage in take. I prefer to take out the least possible. The plan is to cut the trans tunnel from a parts rig, and add/subtract sheetmetal where needed so I can make it look like a sleeper. Heck it take most ppl a lil while to look at my rig before they realize that it has a 3 link, a d44 on discs.. they normally see this when I best them on an obstacle they got denied on The best is when Tj's and JK's with larger tires, and triple the money in them get denied


THat is the exact setup I have for my mj truggy. Jeds maching make a 203/300 doubler. I paid 600 for mine. If I had to do it over again I would Keep the stock engine trans, and run a DD machine 231/300 doubler. Expect to cut a crap load of floor out on the passenger side to clear the t-case. And I mean a lot.

 

THat is the exact setup I have for my mj truggy. Jeds maching make a 203/300 doubler. I paid 600 for mine. If I had to do it over again I would Keep the stock engine trans, and run a DD machine 231/300 doubler. Expect to cut a crap load of floor out on the passenger side to clear the t-case. And I mean a lot.[/QUOTE]

thanks this is what im deciding between although i just had an offer on the axles. trade the d60 and corporate 14 for a ford 3/4 ton d44 and d60 and they will give me 200 bucks cash too. this is starting to sound like the better idea and run a 231/ d300 setup but with this setup would i still run a sye on my 231?

 

Yes, you would still probably need to. But it also depends on how much lift you are running. I can make a stock driveline work on a 4.5" lift.

 

I don't know if you guys got both the 1.0 and 1.3 samurais, anyway over here we fit the 1.0 TC on the 1.3 that has lower gear ratio and fit suzuki swift engine (1.3 16valve) or sidekick 1.6s. The suzuki axles are already very tough (in proportion to the weight of the vehicle) and yes toyota axles are the best choice as an upgrade.

 

okay yeah i wasnt really thinking on that one but yeah im running 6.5" of lift

 

Better put the SYE in while you have it apart then. If you run the D300 you merely have to change yokes the the CV style. If I am not mistaken they only come in 1310 and 1350 sizes.

 

yeah now im just trying to find a d300 around here im not having any luck so far but this week im going to a couple more jy around. i need to figure out exactly what one i need and how much this is all going to run me

 

If I could give you a word of advice, I would definitely go with the 231/300. And one more, flip the case and use the left hand version. Here is why. I put in an Atlas 4 speed and did my measurements carefully. I was fortunate in that I had a tranny that was 4" shorter than the AW4. So I got it to fit almost exactly with it hanging down about 3/4" lower than the 231 and clean linkage in the same spot as the 231. With that being said, if you were planning to go with the right hand version, you will hack up your interior a lot, have to redesign the passenger seat mount, end up with shifters on the far side of the console, which you will take out or hack up. In short, you will redesign your interior and end up doing a lot of welding and fabbing of the floor board and tranny tunnel. Yes it will cost more, but it will pay off in the long run with much less work and a much cleaner install. You will also save on the SYE so that will partially offset the flip case.

 

thanks the more i look into it the more the flipped d300 seems better so that is the way i will be going