LONGARM BUILD
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 1
From: Colorado...BAILEY,CO...BYATCH !
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Read my specs ...

I think i'll need to get some pics in my profile next week ,as I should have my new trans in tomorrow ,and some new pics as it currently sits next week .
Last edited by 1tonxj; Dec 31, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 1
From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
well the lowers got done tonight pics in the am...left my sim card at the shop....after much deliberating and discussions with buddies as well as you guys.. i chose the 2x2 3/16 wall square, it has been my expiriance that square tube will take a better hit vs round (i could be wrong) and after messing with the lenths of steel i just feel it is the best of what i have available to me...i read here i think 96 xj said something about customers......i'm not ready to start fabbing parts like this to sell i got good insurance but i have no intentions of using it
the design is my attempt at a bolt in for possible resale but far from ready.
the design is my attempt at a bolt in for possible resale but far from ready.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 545
Likes: 1
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Air Intake and TB Spacer
Sorry but I would have/am going to be using round tube for me 3 link. There is a reason why MOST people use tube.
Personally I would rather have 1/4 then 3/16 steel on almost anything that will be taking alot of force.
Also I may have missed it, but why the giant t-case drop? I am making a cross member for my 3 link and will be having it as close to frame height as possible. Since you can weld, it might be a good idea to either make an recess in the tube so that it will lower you t-case with out sacraficing your ground clearance.
If you decide to make a change you should do it before mounting your arms and I think that you could probably sell your cross member now for at least the price of the steel that you put in to it.
Personally I would rather have 1/4 then 3/16 steel on almost anything that will be taking alot of force.
Also I may have missed it, but why the giant t-case drop? I am making a cross member for my 3 link and will be having it as close to frame height as possible. Since you can weld, it might be a good idea to either make an recess in the tube so that it will lower you t-case with out sacraficing your ground clearance.
If you decide to make a change you should do it before mounting your arms and I think that you could probably sell your cross member now for at least the price of the steel that you put in to it.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 1
From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Sorry but I would have/am going to be using round tube for me 3 link. There is a reason why MOST people use tube.
Personally I would rather have 1/4 then 3/16 steel on almost anything that will be taking alot of force.
Also I may have missed it, but why the giant t-case drop? I am making a cross member for my 3 link and will be having it as close to frame height as possible. Since you can weld, it might be a good idea to either make an recess in the tube so that it will lower you t-case with out sacraficing your ground clearance.
If you decide to make a change you should do it before mounting your arms and I think that you could probably sell your cross member now for at least the price of the steel that you put in to it.
Personally I would rather have 1/4 then 3/16 steel on almost anything that will be taking alot of force.
Also I may have missed it, but why the giant t-case drop? I am making a cross member for my 3 link and will be having it as close to frame height as possible. Since you can weld, it might be a good idea to either make an recess in the tube so that it will lower you t-case with out sacraficing your ground clearance.
If you decide to make a change you should do it before mounting your arms and I think that you could probably sell your cross member now for at least the price of the steel that you put in to it.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 1
From: Colorado...BAILEY,CO...BYATCH !
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i have square tube for my links. they are 2x2x.250.
these things can support my jeep on a rock.
totally indestructible, i use them as rock sliders.
these things can support my jeep on a rock.
totally indestructible, i use them as rock sliders.
A square drive shaft makes about as much sense as this for a drive shaft..
And i do agree, sticks of square are killer for links. I may end up using square when i do my 3-link.
Last edited by Swamp Donkey; Jan 1, 2011 at 02:49 PM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
Likes: 1
From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
the corkscrew looks to be on an old skool monster...in deep water those can float i think the intent was for a prop. in deep water...hilarious
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
custom square driveshaft is perfectly fine on a trailered rig. i know a couple that run them. they do vibrate at speed, but damn near indestructible on the trail.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 1
From: Colorado...BAILEY,CO...BYATCH !
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Not a good comparison b/c square drive shafts are actually very good offroad ,and this pic illustrates...well I'm not sure what ?
But then again, being square, it might not twist like round would.
Last edited by Swamp Donkey; Jan 1, 2011 at 08:11 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 0
From: rogersville, tn
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0


