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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #31  
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Well the hub failures were from abuse and a ZERO finesse driving style ...I did snap the long tube in half on same ZJ's d30 .
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 1tonxj
Well the hub failures were from abuse and a ZERO finesse driving style ...I did snap the long tube in half on same ZJ's d30 .
Well there's your problem.

Sounds like you need 37s and a locked 60 with .500 wall tubes
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 10:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ZachsXJ
Well there's your problem.

Sounds like you need 37s and a locked 60 with .500 wall tubes

Read my specs ...

I think i'll need to get some pics in my profile next week ,as I should have my new trans in tomorrow ,and some new pics as it currently sits next week .

Last edited by 1tonxj; Dec 31, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 10:55 PM
  #34  
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well the lowers got done tonight pics in the am...left my sim card at the shop....after much deliberating and discussions with buddies as well as you guys.. i chose the 2x2 3/16 wall square, it has been my expiriance that square tube will take a better hit vs round (i could be wrong) and after messing with the lenths of steel i just feel it is the best of what i have available to me...i read here i think 96 xj said something about customers......i'm not ready to start fabbing parts like this to sell i got good insurance but i have no intentions of using it the design is my attempt at a bolt in for possible resale but far from ready.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 03:23 AM
  #35  
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Sorry but I would have/am going to be using round tube for me 3 link. There is a reason why MOST people use tube.

Personally I would rather have 1/4 then 3/16 steel on almost anything that will be taking alot of force.

Also I may have missed it, but why the giant t-case drop? I am making a cross member for my 3 link and will be having it as close to frame height as possible. Since you can weld, it might be a good idea to either make an recess in the tube so that it will lower you t-case with out sacraficing your ground clearance.

If you decide to make a change you should do it before mounting your arms and I think that you could probably sell your cross member now for at least the price of the steel that you put in to it.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 08:16 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 94xjstud
Sorry but I would have/am going to be using round tube for me 3 link. There is a reason why MOST people use tube.

Personally I would rather have 1/4 then 3/16 steel on almost anything that will be taking alot of force.

Also I may have missed it, but why the giant t-case drop? I am making a cross member for my 3 link and will be having it as close to frame height as possible. Since you can weld, it might be a good idea to either make an recess in the tube so that it will lower you t-case with out sacraficing your ground clearance.

If you decide to make a change you should do it before mounting your arms and I think that you could probably sell your cross member now for at least the price of the steel that you put in to it.
yeah i know......measurement wise i only lose 1/4" over what i was running but i looks far lower...probably gonna do another cross member or revamp that one..i'm gonna run it for now this is getting done because of handling issues....sye will get done with the added lift i'm planning and new crossmember
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 94xjstud
Sorry but I would have/am going to be using round tube for me 3 link. There is a reason why MOST people use tube.

.
Square tubing is just fine for links ...It does suck for drive shafts if used at highway speeds .
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 12:29 PM
  #38  
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i have square tube for my links. they are 2x2x.250.
these things can support my jeep on a rock.
totally indestructible, i use them as rock sliders.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 02:47 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 1tonxj
Square tubing is just fine for links ...It does suck for drive shafts if used at highway speeds .

A square drive shaft makes about as much sense as this for a drive shaft..


And i do agree, sticks of square are killer for links. I may end up using square when i do my 3-link.

Last edited by Swamp Donkey; Jan 1, 2011 at 02:49 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #40  
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I think I saw on extreme 4x4 they made a 2 piece driveshaft with square tubing. One half fit into the other half so it could extend and compress.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #41  
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the corkscrew looks to be on an old skool monster...in deep water those can float i think the intent was for a prop. in deep water...hilarious
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #42  
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custom square driveshaft is perfectly fine on a trailered rig. i know a couple that run them. they do vibrate at speed, but damn near indestructible on the trail.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 05:02 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Swamp Donkey
A square drive shaft makes about as much sense as this for a drive shaft..


And i do agree, sticks of square are killer for links. I may end up using square when i do my 3-link.

Not a good comparison b/c square drive shafts are actually very good offroad ,and this pic illustrates...well I'm not sure what ?
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by caged
custom square driveshaft is perfectly fine on a trailered rig. i know a couple that run them. they do vibrate at speed, but damn near indestructible on the trail.
What i have against a square drive shaft is, ive seen the usual round twist up like a pretzel when scraped across a rock, well square has 4 edges to catch and hit on as it spins.

But then again, being square, it might not twist like round would.

Last edited by Swamp Donkey; Jan 1, 2011 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by DeathWobble
1.5x.250 DOM is about as small of a tube I would use. I just wouldn't feel safe with anything less
i built mine outta 2in .250 wall and they are hella strong, i wanna see some pics soon
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