LONGARM BUILD
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
stock w/t-case drop:

2x6 3/16 wall tube cut:

top of main crossmember drilled:

bottom main drilled for socket clearance:

test fit drops drilled and sleaved:

test fit in truck and tack weld:

side plates i had cut from diamond plate:

test fit 2 side plates drilled out rail for nut and bolt tack it together:

crossmember all welded up..had to go home last night thats as far as i got:

2x6 3/16 wall tube cut:

top of main crossmember drilled:

bottom main drilled for socket clearance:

test fit drops drilled and sleaved:

test fit in truck and tack weld:

side plates i had cut from diamond plate:

test fit 2 side plates drilled out rail for nut and bolt tack it together:

crossmember all welded up..had to go home last night thats as far as i got:
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
1/8 wall tube is more than enough...to start stock we run on 16 guage stamped steel and if the tubing is good enough for nhra cage and chassis specs in a 9sec. car it's good enough for my jeep..if i bend it i'll make new ones.
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
but there is a difference. in the 9 sec car you probably do not have a span of 32"-35" of ungussetted strait tubing.
it is the length of the tubing that requires the thicker tube. The reason being with that thin wall you nail a rock in the center (and you will) it will bend. I can promise you that now. and I suggest you play safe and run atleast 0.25" minimum.
it is the length of the tubing that requires the thicker tube. The reason being with that thin wall you nail a rock in the center (and you will) it will bend. I can promise you that now. and I suggest you play safe and run atleast 0.25" minimum.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
and just to reiterate some more. my short arms are 1.5"x0.25 DOM and i have gouged, slid, banged them up. and they are fine, but if it was 0.120 tubing they would have been bent already. that is with a short arm. the long arm again i would not hesitate to run 0.375 tubing. the cost difference is not that much.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
one other really important detail..i don't have rocks..and this is for dd use ride quality and wooded trails if i were to go for rocks i would use thicker tube.
also it's 1 3/4 that was my typo
also it's 1 3/4 that was my typo
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,135
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From: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
and MJ's are unibody on the cab side then go to frame rails directly after the cab
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,140
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
well i'm not gonna be one of the idiots that don't listen, i'm gonna run to my steel shop see if he has 6ft of 1/4 wall around.. i plan to build the lower arms tonight..
and as far as the MJ that would explain my confusion
and as far as the MJ that would explain my confusion
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Colorado...BAILEY,CO...BYATCH !
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Why stay off roads ?...it would be fine for driving just not bashing . Not advocating it but it would not be a highway safety issue.


