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LONGARM BUILD

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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 06:56 AM
  #1  
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From: cape cod ma.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 i6
Default LONGARM BUILD

stock w/t-case drop:



2x6 3/16 wall tube cut:



top of main crossmember drilled:



bottom main drilled for socket clearance:



test fit drops drilled and sleaved:



test fit in truck and tack weld:



side plates i had cut from diamond plate:



test fit 2 side plates drilled out rail for nut and bolt tack it together:



crossmember all welded up..had to go home last night thats as far as i got:

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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:17 AM
  #2  
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Looks good n beefy. What kind of joints and what tubing do you plan to use?
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 09:43 AM
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From: cape cod ma.
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1.75 DOM .120 wall with poly bushings

Last edited by alloutperform; Dec 31, 2010 at 12:49 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:08 AM
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thats some thin tubing...
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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x2. you want 0.25 for your uppers and 0.25 for your lowers minimum. i wouldnt even hesitate one bit to run 0.375 lowers.....
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #6  
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1/8 wall tube is more than enough...to start stock we run on 16 guage stamped steel and if the tubing is good enough for nhra cage and chassis specs in a 9sec. car it's good enough for my jeep..if i bend it i'll make new ones.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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but there is a difference. in the 9 sec car you probably do not have a span of 32"-35" of ungussetted strait tubing.

it is the length of the tubing that requires the thicker tube. The reason being with that thin wall you nail a rock in the center (and you will) it will bend. I can promise you that now. and I suggest you play safe and run atleast 0.25" minimum.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:29 AM
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its not if they bend, they will bend. yeah NHRA may use it but all of there stuff is triangulated and what not. not just one long stick of it.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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and just to reiterate some more. my short arms are 1.5"x0.25 DOM and i have gouged, slid, banged them up. and they are fine, but if it was 0.120 tubing they would have been bent already. that is with a short arm. the long arm again i would not hesitate to run 0.375 tubing. the cost difference is not that much.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:52 PM
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one other really important detail..i don't have rocks..and this is for dd use ride quality and wooded trails if i were to go for rocks i would use thicker tube.

also it's 1 3/4 that was my typo
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #11  
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hey eliminator: off topic do mj's have frames or are they 1/2 unibody never had one and was just wondering i know the beds come off
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by alloutperform
one other really important detail..i don't have rocks..and this is for dd use ride quality and wooded trails if i were to go for rocks i would use thicker tube.

also it's 1 3/4 that was my typo
wooded trails even still. i strongly suggest 0.25 or 0.375. you can do what you will, but please stay off the roads if you do use 0.120.

and MJ's are unibody on the cab side then go to frame rails directly after the cab
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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well i'm not gonna be one of the idiots that don't listen, i'm gonna run to my steel shop see if he has 6ft of 1/4 wall around.. i plan to build the lower arms tonight..


and as far as the MJ that would explain my confusion
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 01:34 PM
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yup. its unibody from the cab forward. and the portion that is unibody is stronger than the XJ.
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 96_xj
wooded trails even still. i strongly suggest 0.25 or 0.375. you can do what you will, but please stay off the roads if you do use 0.120.

and MJ's are unibody on the cab side then go to frame rails directly after the cab

Why stay off roads ?...it would be fine for driving just not bashing . Not advocating it but it would not be a highway safety issue.
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