remove one upper link, you have actually built a swing arm almost every company out there does it wrong also try adding plate in the unibody and install welded nuts like you were fixing a rotted wrangler frame to give yourself some added mounting structure thats how i do it .. otherwise top knotch stuff guy incredible fit and finish

 

Been working out of town for the past month, so getting out has been a little bit of a challenge, but I was able to make it today for a little trial run. The kit did well, the only issue I had, was my front shock maxing out too soon. Ill be buying new longer shocks, and giving it another run. Here's a couple pics of today's run.

 

Took the Cherokee out to Big Bear last weekend, and ran Gold Mountain, and Little John Bull, and hand ZERO issues. Adding the frame stiffeners this weekend.

 

Did this ride well? and did you drag your arms on any rocks? Ive been thinking of doing a long arm build but Im not sure which type I want to go with.

 

oh, and your sandrails are bad ***.

 

3 link

 

The ride was great, and it didn't drag at all. I would highly suggest a long arm kit, and it honestly doesn't matter which you decide to go with. A
y-link/radius, 3-link, or 4-link will be dramatically better than your stock arms. You'll have guys that will try and tell you that one is better than the other, and they would be right, if you were building a purpose built crawler. But for the average wheeler, any of these types of kits will perform just fine.

I'll be headed up to Big Bear to run Gold Mountain and John Bull in August
(I believe 8-24-13), and I'll give you a update as to how things go. I'll have my lockers installed by then (7-27-13), and with the frame stiffeners it should be an awesome ride.

 

awesome, your kit looks great. I live in the desert so my jeep will see a lot of high speed driving through whoops and stuff to get to trails. Do you think the y link would take too much of a beating with only two frame mounting points? I can use the lathe and the mill and weld all I want so is there anything you would change? Thanks for the info, and sorry for thread jacking lol.

 

I don't see a reason as to why it wouldn't be able to stand up to the abuse of that style of driving.

 

Just ran across this thread. Con someone explain why 3 or 4 link is better than radius?

 

Anti-squat and binding

 

What happened to the Pingpong vs Venom showdown.... fight fight fight!
Ha ha nice work though everybody. I live half hour away what'd your stuff cost to get some.

 

Venom i like your work i have seen your your stuff on minibuggy web. i sooooo wish i had the skill and cash to build a bad *** buggy like yours. its cool to see you here on this page. i like your rig. i have two cherokees my jeep is a 1990 on a 4in lift. my sons that we picked up for cheep is a 1991 stock hight. we plan on doing a lift on his after we fix the engine it has a bad lifter or flat cam lobe? we are going have some fun Dad and son time builing it. any ways thanks for your build and pics

 

I haven't experienced any of that.
As for binding, I believe that to be false, or a misconception.
2 pivot points, and the pinion angle is constant throughout the suspension cycle. The only place that binding could be an issue would be the track bar hitting the bracket on the axle. I haven't had that issue, but that "issue" is easily solved with a little trimming.

If I'm wrong, please feel free to elaborate. I am not an "expert", and would like to hear real experiences.

 

a radius rod set up does bind when flexing.The upper links try to twist the lowers, like i said they create i swingarm, your flex is almost all just the bushings at the housing stretching and twisting.. if you remove one upper link off of a radius rod it helps but is not a free as a true 3 or 4 link.. just hard on bushings and replacing those points with a joint will cause even less movment