yeah but both are doing the same thing, keeping the axle centered. With your setup, you'll need lower and upper arms plus the hydraulic pistons. With the traditional triangulated 4-link, all you need is four arms.

The idea is cool though. I applaud your brain for coming up with something like that Maybe I can implement it into one of my RC's and see if it works. I got an idea how to convert two mini shocks into "one" that work together like your picture shows. Hmm....

 

Thank you, your RC's are amazing!
What i am trying to do before i build my jeep is to find out the best configuration that gives me movements the most linear as possible and stiffness.
What i don't like in the triangular upper arm is the enormous lever and stress applied on the center link.
It might be fine for RC purposes because the masses in play are not so big.
On a jeep the side hits may cause some serious damage, no matter how big that uniball can be.
I am now studying the geometry of a four bar linkage to keep the pinion axis parallel to the ground, and this is achieved calculating the correct length of the control arms.
If the control arms are wrong dimensioned the axle will rotate around it's axis, this is still fine when both wheels move together, but when u have a twist situation on one side the arms will keep the axle straight and on the other side they will rotate trying to twist the tubes and the diff housing.
The result is bad articulation and quickly worn bushings.

 

This is very interesting too:
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/4link.shtml

 

Wow!
http://www.muddtanks.com/4LinkSuspArticle.htm

 

its fine on fullsize rigs

people have been running it for quite some time now. almost every buggy in the competition i go to runs it and the only failure i have seen was from an aluminum lower arm.

some people even run 1 link front ends, and it works

 

Don't buggys have the engine on the rear and are two wheel drive with very light front axles or independent suspension?

 

You are thinkin Dune Buggies. There are rock buggies too...

Most of these are triagulated.

 

Ok what i will do is buy one of these and fit a fiberglass cherokee body on it and that's it!

 

Ehm... how much money do i need?

 

brand spankin new? i would say about 70 to 100 grand.

 

 

Let's step back a little and build something realistic on my chkee. Has anybody ever seen or used tractor linkage?
http://www.unispares.com/top-link-assemblies.html

 

When you build a suspension for a vehicle that is a daily driver, you want to have a bushing of some kind on one end of the link to absorb the road noises. Those agriculture arms would work but wouldn't be ideal for our jeeps unless it is an off-road only rig. Skyjacker used to make their long arm kits with arms similar to those agriculture arms. They had heims at both ends and they were nothing but trouble. I kept hearing about how the arms transmit so much road noise and wear out to the point where they are clunking. Skyjacker has changed some of their kits to include poly bushings at one end or rebuildable and stronger johnny joints.

There are many aftermarket long and short arms out there to choose from so there's no real need to use agriculture parts.

For example:


Those are rough country arms. Adjustable, flex joints, and poly end to absorb road noise. I have them too $179

 

Of course, the problem is that i am in europe and it's difficult to purchase stuff from the states, so i was just wondering to buy the johnny joints and bushings from another machine cathegory and build the stuff my self.

 

Sounds good. I wasn't aware of your location. Alot of online stores here can ship overseas.