The Homebrew Jeep Mod Thread
No, I don't lick fish.
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Will definitely keep updates going on it. Comically, its a old daybed frame I cut so I could get the width I needed, ( cut about 6 inches off each side of the folding section) the remainder that I cut will be the sides of the rack and I'll have a open front and back. I'm also using more of the bed frame to brace the rack itself.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
Does this count as homebrew ??
The idea kinda came from a similar item made for ATV's that gave you the storage rack, but didn't kill your ground clearance as bad as straight out would, and I had some metal, and needed to learn how to weld (or at least practice)....so I went to town.
You can open the rear hatch with a full size cooler on the rack, and it is made of 1" square tubing.
The rack is removable from the z bar, reason being, I had planned on making a stand to use the rack itself inside the jeep for a shelf, but never got around to it.
I used some 1 1/4" tubing as the sleeve and 1" as the insert to let you remove the rack from the bar for more compact storage.
I also put a 4-5 deg angle on the rack so when loaded it didn't sag so bad.
I did learn one thing form this tho.......the extra weight and length of the z bar, combined with really bumpy & rough hunting roads, as well as driving around with a full grown deer on it, really did a number on the frame where the hitch mounts up.....it cracked the frame on the lower inside corner of both sides from the bumper forward about 12". I found this when I noticed the rack felt 'squishy' and started trying to figure out why.
Still works good on my 96, but the 88 (pictured) won't support it now.
It is kinda heavy too compared to the ones you buy thee days, probably in the 50 lb range.
I did have to modify it from these pics, as the insert into the hitch in the pic was only 1 1/4"...that lasted 3 days on the hunting property, so when I got home, I moved up a regular 2" receiver and thick wall insert, and added some extra triangular bracing at the 1st bend, and it has been fine ever since.
The idea kinda came from a similar item made for ATV's that gave you the storage rack, but didn't kill your ground clearance as bad as straight out would, and I had some metal, and needed to learn how to weld (or at least practice)....so I went to town.
You can open the rear hatch with a full size cooler on the rack, and it is made of 1" square tubing.
The rack is removable from the z bar, reason being, I had planned on making a stand to use the rack itself inside the jeep for a shelf, but never got around to it.
I used some 1 1/4" tubing as the sleeve and 1" as the insert to let you remove the rack from the bar for more compact storage.
I also put a 4-5 deg angle on the rack so when loaded it didn't sag so bad.
I did learn one thing form this tho.......the extra weight and length of the z bar, combined with really bumpy & rough hunting roads, as well as driving around with a full grown deer on it, really did a number on the frame where the hitch mounts up.....it cracked the frame on the lower inside corner of both sides from the bumper forward about 12". I found this when I noticed the rack felt 'squishy' and started trying to figure out why.
Still works good on my 96, but the 88 (pictured) won't support it now.
It is kinda heavy too compared to the ones you buy thee days, probably in the 50 lb range.
I did have to modify it from these pics, as the insert into the hitch in the pic was only 1 1/4"...that lasted 3 days on the hunting property, so when I got home, I moved up a regular 2" receiver and thick wall insert, and added some extra triangular bracing at the 1st bend, and it has been fine ever since.
Last edited by TRCM; Dec 17, 2017 at 04:42 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Almost everything on mine has been fabricated since I am cheap 
But here is my ultimate cup holder that holds every size from soda can to 1 liter pop bottle. Started out with the standard cup holder from Jeep
But here is my ultimate cup holder that holds every size from soda can to 1 liter pop bottle. Started out with the standard cup holder from Jeep
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 449
Likes: 5
From: Schenevus, New York
Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee(WJ)
Engine: 4.0/4.7
Very nice. I want to find the ones my dad's old motor home had that kept your drink level at all times lol
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 35
From: Colorado
Year: 1991 2-Door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f2...g-sasha-14721/
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,029
Likes: 35
From: Colorado
Year: 1991 2-Door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Does this count as homebrew ??
The idea kinda came from a similar item made for ATV's that gave you the storage rack, but didn't kill your ground clearance as bad as straight out would, and I had some metal, and needed to learn how to weld (or at least practice)....so I went to town.
You can open the rear hatch with a full size cooler on the rack, and it is made of 1" square tubing.
The rack is removable from the z bar, reason being, I had planned on making a stand to use the rack itself inside the jeep for a shelf, but never got around to it.
I used some 1 1/4" tubing as the sleeve and 1" as the insert to let you remove the rack from the bar for more compact storage.
I also put a 4-5 deg angle on the rack so when loaded it didn't sag so bad.
I did learn one thing form this tho.......the extra weight and length of the z bar, combined with really bumpy & rough hunting roads, as well as driving around with a full grown deer on it, really did a number on the frame where the hitch mounts up.....it cracked the frame on the lower inside corner of both sides from the bumper forward about 12". I found this when I noticed the rack felt 'squishy' and started trying to figure out why.
Still works good on my 96, but the 88 (pictured) won't support it now.
It is kinda heavy too compared to the ones you buy thee days, probably in the 50 lb range.
I did have to modify it from these pics, as the insert into the hitch in the pic was only 1 1/4"...that lasted 3 days on the hunting property, so when I got home, I moved up a regular 2" receiver and thick wall insert, and added some extra triangular bracing at the 1st bend, and it has been fine ever since.
The idea kinda came from a similar item made for ATV's that gave you the storage rack, but didn't kill your ground clearance as bad as straight out would, and I had some metal, and needed to learn how to weld (or at least practice)....so I went to town.
You can open the rear hatch with a full size cooler on the rack, and it is made of 1" square tubing.
The rack is removable from the z bar, reason being, I had planned on making a stand to use the rack itself inside the jeep for a shelf, but never got around to it.
I used some 1 1/4" tubing as the sleeve and 1" as the insert to let you remove the rack from the bar for more compact storage.
I also put a 4-5 deg angle on the rack so when loaded it didn't sag so bad.
I did learn one thing form this tho.......the extra weight and length of the z bar, combined with really bumpy & rough hunting roads, as well as driving around with a full grown deer on it, really did a number on the frame where the hitch mounts up.....it cracked the frame on the lower inside corner of both sides from the bumper forward about 12". I found this when I noticed the rack felt 'squishy' and started trying to figure out why.
Still works good on my 96, but the 88 (pictured) won't support it now.
It is kinda heavy too compared to the ones you buy thee days, probably in the 50 lb range.
I did have to modify it from these pics, as the insert into the hitch in the pic was only 1 1/4"...that lasted 3 days on the hunting property, so when I got home, I moved up a regular 2" receiver and thick wall insert, and added some extra triangular bracing at the 1st bend, and it has been fine ever since.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 458
Likes: 9
From: Apache Junction, AZ
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee(ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
Nice! My factory cup holders will be getting modified soon as the cup I normally use barely fits and will fall out when the bumps get to bumpin'.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 81
Likes: 2
From: Long Island
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Finished my front bumper it's 2x6 rectangle tube with 1.75 hrew and 1" schedule 40 pipe for the little slants. The top corners will tie into the cage when it's done but for now I have a cool bumper. All the material was free and I used my bottle jack pipe bender.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
I made mine like 9 or 10 yrs ago I'd guess.
.
Last edited by TRCM; Dec 17, 2017 at 06:52 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,242
Likes: 41
From: Newport News, VA
Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees