Homebrew Bumpers
02-08-2012, 04:37 PM
#106
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Oregon
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline Six
If you are still interested in building a back bumper for yourself, Im in the middle of making one for my jeep. I am using 2x6 tubing to stretch the width of my jeep, I made end caps that go along with the body conture out of 1/8 inch plate, and then have 2x4x1/4 inch tubing traveling 16" inside the frame to fully secure it to my jeep. I mainly am doing this though because Im making a swing away arm to hold my spare tire, 5 gallon gas can, and farm jack. Ill try to get some better pics up soon for ya if your still interested.
02-08-2012, 06:22 PM
#109
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: kingston tennessee
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5
02-08-2012, 08:27 PM
#110
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Raleigh,NC
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
02-08-2012, 11:32 PM
#111
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Location: Oregon
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline Six
Thanks Zacks98! Its taken a bit to get her done and designed, but its looking good. So the process of how I made it. First I got a 2x6" piece of rectancular tubing that would stretch the width of my jeep. I then got schedule 80 piping and 1/4" plate and made metal pods to act as the punched out mounts made to secure the stock back bumper to my jeep. I copied the bolt pattern and then welded the pods all together(the pods push the rectangular tubing out about 2 3/4"). Once the pods were made I bolted them to my jeep and welded the 2x6" rectangular tubing to the pods. I then found some 1/8" plate and cut them so that the end of the plate would cover the end of the gray trim stretching from the front to the back of my jeep. I think the measurement was 6-8 inches in length. I then bent this plate to match the side body contour of the jeep. Once these were made I used the porta band and grinder to make those angles on either side of my rectangular tubing. Once the angles were made I welded the plates on. Once this was complete, I started working on the tire/jerry can/farm jack swing arm. To accomplish this I decided to go with a two pin system with rectangular tubing stretching in-between the pins. In this system, one pin would be stationary acting as the hinge and the other pin would be removable acting as the lock. To do this I made 4 3/8" tabs, located on either side of the rectangular tubing facing the back, and drilled a 3/4" hole in one end. I took these tabs and welded them, in pairs, to either end of the bumper. I then found about a 8" of 2 1/4" pipe with a inside diameter of 3/4". I then cut this in half and got some 3/4" round bar to act as my pins. Both of these components together would act as my hinge/lock. For the support arm I got some square tubing with a wall thickness of about 1/4" and then integrated the 2 1/4" piping into either end of the square tubing. Once this was done, put the support arm up on the bumper, put the pins in and started working on the tire carrier mount. For this I used square tubing, about 2" same as the support arm, and used it to come up and out as far as I wanted the tire. I tried to make it so the tire when bolted on would have the same angle as the glass of the hatch. Making it have that clean look. To make the mount where the spare tire would be bolted on I took 3/8" plate and traced the bolt pattern of my rims. I then went to NAPA and got 3 hub thread replacements and welded them onto the 3/8" plate. To attach the farm jack I took more of the 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and cut a piece of length of 6-8"( sorry I dont know off the top of my head, I can measeure if you really want, but its just the length of the farm jack base). I then drilled 2 1/2" holes in the 2x4 rectangular tubing in the bolt pattern the farm jack base had(top and back). Once I did this I put 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the holes and welded them in place. This acts as the mount for the farm jack. Then for the jerry can mount I made two 3/8" angle iron brackets and welded them to the support arm. this takes up most of the weight the jerry can will exert on the system. To attach the jerry can mount to the arm, I decided to tack the front base to the support angle arms and then make a back plate stretching the full entire length of the back. This allowed me to bolt the jerry can mount to the back plate through bolts instead of welding. the thought behind this was to eliminate stress cracks in welds due to the constant vibrations of off roading. Im still working on that. Anyways, once I got done with the tire carrier, like any guy would do I wanted to see how the tire looked! So I put it up on the mount and bolted it down. I then tapped on the tire and saw my newly fabbed bumper flexing up and down...Long story short the unibody frame was flexing because of the newly added load of all this steal. So to eliminate that I cut into the face plate behind the stock bumper so I had access to the inside of the unibody frame. I then took 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and ran it 16" into the unibody frame. From there I took 1/2" bolts and welded nuts inside of the 2x4 tubing. this allowed me to sandwich the rectangular tubing and the jeep unibody frame together, securing the bumper down. This took care of the flex the bumper was having. All in all this is how I did it. Sorry if it was more detail then what you wanted. If you want pictures to help understand what I just said then Ill be more then happy to get them. along with any questions you may have about what I did.
02-09-2012, 02:13 AM
#112
Thanks Zacks98! Its taken a bit to get her done and designed, but its looking good. So the process of how I made it. First I got a 2x6" piece of rectancular tubing that would stretch the width of my jeep. I then got schedule 80 piping and 1/4" plate and made metal pods to act as the punched out mounts made to secure the stock back bumper to my jeep. I copied the bolt pattern and then welded the pods all together(the pods push the rectangular tubing out about 2 3/4"). Once the pods were made I bolted them to my jeep and welded the 2x6" rectangular tubing to the pods. I then found some 1/8" plate and cut them so that the end of the plate would cover the end of the gray trim stretching from the front to the back of my jeep. I think the measurement was 6-8 inches in length. I then bent this plate to match the side body contour of the jeep. Once these were made I used the porta band and grinder to make those angles on either side of my rectangular tubing. Once the angles were made I welded the plates on. Once this was complete, I started working on the tire/jerry can/farm jack swing arm. To accomplish this I decided to go with a two pin system with rectangular tubing stretching in-between the pins. In this system, one pin would be stationary acting as the hinge and the other pin would be removable acting as the lock. To do this I made 4 3/8" tabs, located on either side of the rectangular tubing facing the back, and drilled a 3/4" hole in one end. I took these tabs and welded them, in pairs, to either end of the bumper. I then found about a 8" of 2 1/4" pipe with a inside diameter of 3/4". I then cut this in half and got some 3/4" round bar to act as my pins. Both of these components together would act as my hinge/lock. For the support arm I got some square tubing with a wall thickness of about 1/4" and then integrated the 2 1/4" piping into either end of the square tubing. Once this was done, put the support arm up on the bumper, put the pins in and started working on the tire carrier mount. For this I used square tubing, about 2" same as the support arm, and used it to come up and out as far as I wanted the tire. I tried to make it so the tire when bolted on would have the same angle as the glass of the hatch. Making it have that clean look. To make the mount where the spare tire would be bolted on I took 3/8" plate and traced the bolt pattern of my rims. I then went to NAPA and got 3 hub thread replacements and welded them onto the 3/8" plate. To attach the farm jack I took more of the 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and cut a piece of length of 6-8"( sorry I dont know off the top of my head, I can measeure if you really want, but its just the length of the farm jack base). I then drilled 2 1/2" holes in the 2x4 rectangular tubing in the bolt pattern the farm jack base had(top and back). Once I did this I put 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the holes and welded them in place. This acts as the mount for the farm jack. Then for the jerry can mount I made two 3/8" angle iron brackets and welded them to the support arm. this takes up most of the weight the jerry can will exert on the system. To attach the jerry can mount to the arm, I decided to tack the front base to the support angle arms and then make a back plate stretching the full entire length of the back. This allowed me to bolt the jerry can mount to the back plate through bolts instead of welding. the thought behind this was to eliminate stress cracks in welds due to the constant vibrations of off roading. Im still working on that. Anyways, once I got done with the tire carrier, like any guy would do I wanted to see how the tire looked! So I put it up on the mount and bolted it down. I then tapped on the tire and saw my newly fabbed bumper flexing up and down...Long story short the unibody frame was flexing because of the newly added load of all this steal. So to eliminate that I cut into the face plate behind the stock bumper so I had access to the inside of the unibody frame. I then took 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and ran it 16" into the unibody frame. From there I took 1/2" bolts and welded nuts inside of the 2x4 tubing. this allowed me to sandwich the rectangular tubing and the jeep unibody frame together, securing the bumper down. This took care of the flex the bumper was having. All in all this is how I did it. Sorry if it was more detail then what you wanted. If you want pictures to help understand what I just said then Ill be more then happy to get them. along with any questions you may have about what I did.
02-09-2012, 04:47 PM
#118
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Thanks Zacks98! Its taken a bit to get her done and designed, but its looking good. So the process of how I made it. First I got a 2x6" piece of rectancular tubing that would stretch the width of my jeep. I then got schedule 80 piping and 1/4" plate and made metal pods to act as the punched out mounts made to secure the stock back bumper to my jeep. I copied the bolt pattern and then welded the pods all together(the pods push the rectangular tubing out about 2 3/4"). Once the pods were made I bolted them to my jeep and welded the 2x6" rectangular tubing to the pods. I then found some 1/8" plate and cut them so that the end of the plate would cover the end of the gray trim stretching from the front to the back of my jeep. I think the measurement was 6-8 inches in length. I then bent this plate to match the side body contour of the jeep. Once these were made I used the porta band and grinder to make those angles on either side of my rectangular tubing. Once the angles were made I welded the plates on. Once this was complete, I started working on the tire/jerry can/farm jack swing arm. To accomplish this I decided to go with a two pin system with rectangular tubing stretching in-between the pins. In this system, one pin would be stationary acting as the hinge and the other pin would be removable acting as the lock. To do this I made 4 3/8" tabs, located on either side of the rectangular tubing facing the back, and drilled a 3/4" hole in one end. I took these tabs and welded them, in pairs, to either end of the bumper. I then found about a 8" of 2 1/4" pipe with a inside diameter of 3/4". I then cut this in half and got some 3/4" round bar to act as my pins. Both of these components together would act as my hinge/lock. For the support arm I got some square tubing with a wall thickness of about 1/4" and then integrated the 2 1/4" piping into either end of the square tubing. Once this was done, put the support arm up on the bumper, put the pins in and started working on the tire carrier mount. For this I used square tubing, about 2" same as the support arm, and used it to come up and out as far as I wanted the tire. I tried to make it so the tire when bolted on would have the same angle as the glass of the hatch. Making it have that clean look. To make the mount where the spare tire would be bolted on I took 3/8" plate and traced the bolt pattern of my rims. I then went to NAPA and got 3 hub thread replacements and welded them onto the 3/8" plate. To attach the farm jack I took more of the 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and cut a piece of length of 6-8"( sorry I dont know off the top of my head, I can measeure if you really want, but its just the length of the farm jack base). I then drilled 2 1/2" holes in the 2x4 rectangular tubing in the bolt pattern the farm jack base had(top and back). Once I did this I put 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the holes and welded them in place. This acts as the mount for the farm jack. Then for the jerry can mount I made two 3/8" angle iron brackets and welded them to the support arm. this takes up most of the weight the jerry can will exert on the system. To attach the jerry can mount to the arm, I decided to tack the front base to the support angle arms and then make a back plate stretching the full entire length of the back. This allowed me to bolt the jerry can mount to the back plate through bolts instead of welding. the thought behind this was to eliminate stress cracks in welds due to the constant vibrations of off roading. Im still working on that. Anyways, once I got done with the tire carrier, like any guy would do I wanted to see how the tire looked! So I put it up on the mount and bolted it down. I then tapped on the tire and saw my newly fabbed bumper flexing up and down...Long story short the unibody frame was flexing because of the newly added load of all this steal. So to eliminate that I cut into the face plate behind the stock bumper so I had access to the inside of the unibody frame. I then took 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and ran it 16" into the unibody frame. From there I took 1/2" bolts and welded nuts inside of the 2x4 tubing. this allowed me to sandwich the rectangular tubing and the jeep unibody frame together, securing the bumper down. This took care of the flex the bumper was having. All in all this is how I did it. Sorry if it was more detail then what you wanted. If you want pictures to help understand what I just said then Ill be more then happy to get them. along with any questions you may have about what I did.
02-09-2012, 06:43 PM
#120
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Dayton, Ohio
Posts: 2,460
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Year: 1992
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0
Thanks Zacks98! Its taken a bit to get her done and designed, but its looking good. So the process of how I made it. First I got a 2x6" piece of rectancular tubing that would stretch the width of my jeep. I then got schedule 80 piping and 1/4" plate and made metal pods to act as the punched out mounts made to secure the stock back bumper to my jeep. I copied the bolt pattern and then welded the pods all together(the pods push the rectangular tubing out about 2 3/4"). Once the pods were made I bolted them to my jeep and welded the 2x6" rectangular tubing to the pods. I then found some 1/8" plate and cut them so that the end of the plate would cover the end of the gray trim stretching from the front to the back of my jeep. I think the measurement was 6-8 inches in length. I then bent this plate to match the side body contour of the jeep. Once these were made I used the porta band and grinder to make those angles on either side of my rectangular tubing. Once the angles were made I welded the plates on. Once this was complete, I started working on the tire/jerry can/farm jack swing arm. To accomplish this I decided to go with a two pin system with rectangular tubing stretching in-between the pins. In this system, one pin would be stationary acting as the hinge and the other pin would be removable acting as the lock. To do this I made 4 3/8" tabs, located on either side of the rectangular tubing facing the back, and drilled a 3/4" hole in one end. I took these tabs and welded them, in pairs, to either end of the bumper. I then found about a 8" of 2 1/4" pipe with a inside diameter of 3/4". I then cut this in half and got some 3/4" round bar to act as my pins. Both of these components together would act as my hinge/lock. For the support arm I got some square tubing with a wall thickness of about 1/4" and then integrated the 2 1/4" piping into either end of the square tubing. Once this was done, put the support arm up on the bumper, put the pins in and started working on the tire carrier mount. For this I used square tubing, about 2" same as the support arm, and used it to come up and out as far as I wanted the tire. I tried to make it so the tire when bolted on would have the same angle as the glass of the hatch. Making it have that clean look. To make the mount where the spare tire would be bolted on I took 3/8" plate and traced the bolt pattern of my rims. I then went to NAPA and got 3 hub thread replacements and welded them onto the 3/8" plate. To attach the farm jack I took more of the 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and cut a piece of length of 6-8"( sorry I dont know off the top of my head, I can measeure if you really want, but its just the length of the farm jack base). I then drilled 2 1/2" holes in the 2x4 rectangular tubing in the bolt pattern the farm jack base had(top and back). Once I did this I put 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the holes and welded them in place. This acts as the mount for the farm jack. Then for the jerry can mount I made two 3/8" angle iron brackets and welded them to the support arm. this takes up most of the weight the jerry can will exert on the system. To attach the jerry can mount to the arm, I decided to tack the front base to the support angle arms and then make a back plate stretching the full entire length of the back. This allowed me to bolt the jerry can mount to the back plate through bolts instead of welding. the thought behind this was to eliminate stress cracks in welds due to the constant vibrations of off roading. Im still working on that. Anyways, once I got done with the tire carrier, like any guy would do I wanted to see how the tire looked! So I put it up on the mount and bolted it down. I then tapped on the tire and saw my newly fabbed bumper flexing up and down...Long story short the unibody frame was flexing because of the newly added load of all this steal. So to eliminate that I cut into the face plate behind the stock bumper so I had access to the inside of the unibody frame. I then took 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing and ran it 16" into the unibody frame. From there I took 1/2" bolts and welded nuts inside of the 2x4 tubing. this allowed me to sandwich the rectangular tubing and the jeep unibody frame together, securing the bumper down. This took care of the flex the bumper was having. All in all this is how I did it. Sorry if it was more detail then what you wanted. If you want pictures to help understand what I just said then Ill be more then happy to get them. along with any questions you may have about what I did.
Um I'm looking at making tube bumpers, So I was wondering if you could get me pictures of the mounts and swing arm?
Edit: more of just the mounts actually. I like the bumper a lot. Easy and functional. Looks good too.
Last edited by Zack92MJ; 02-09-2012 at 06:46 PM.