home made long arms?
#46
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Hmm.. I'd still like this method, since it's more hands on and I can take more pride in it. I was thinking of buying Rusty's cross member, would that work?
Bushing, joint, etc wise, what should I look for?
I was thinking of these for the frame links: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html
Bushing, joint, etc wise, what should I look for?
I was thinking of these for the frame links: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html
Last edited by 92XJGuy; 09-16-2012 at 07:39 PM.
#47
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Hmm.. I'd still like this method, since it's more hands on and I can take more pride in it. I was thinking of buying Rusty's cross member, would that work?
Bushing, joint, etc wise, what should I look for?
I was thinking of these for the frame links: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html
Bushing, joint, etc wise, what should I look for?
I was thinking of these for the frame links: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html
ive heard using a combo of rubber bushings at the frame and heims at the axle works well. but id like to hear what others have to say on this cuz this is my winter project most likely. if weather cooperates.
#48
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Ok, sweet. I might buy a decent pair of adjustable short arms for the time, then work on a good set of long arms. I'd like to do this right and take my time, and I'm running out of room to store my lift parts. Already have my large coils and leafs in my room lol. Don't ever move to a small apartment. Are these on the cheaper end, or do bushings go for this? http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...63_p_1646.html
I've just never heard of Ballistic before, but then again, I've never fabbed my own arms, so.. And if it's not too much trouble, could someone give me a brief run down of what I'll need for arms? I feel like I'm overlooking a few things, and I've been up since 5 so I'm running on empty lol. I'll research places that sell all the parts, just need to double check.
Thanks
I've just never heard of Ballistic before, but then again, I've never fabbed my own arms, so.. And if it's not too much trouble, could someone give me a brief run down of what I'll need for arms? I feel like I'm overlooking a few things, and I've been up since 5 so I'm running on empty lol. I'll research places that sell all the parts, just need to double check.
Thanks
Last edited by 92XJGuy; 09-16-2012 at 07:56 PM.
#49
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Hmm.. I'd still like this method, since it's more hands on and I can take more pride in it. I was thinking of buying Rusty's cross member, would that work?
Bushing, joint, etc wise, what should I look for?
I was thinking of these for the frame links: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html
Bushing, joint, etc wise, what should I look for?
I was thinking of these for the frame links: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html
#50
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#51
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Ok, sweet. I might buy a decent pair of adjustable short arms for the time, then work on a good set of long arms. I'd like to do this right and take my time, and I'm running out of room to store my lift parts. Already have my large coils and leafs in my room lol. Don't ever move to a small apartment. Are these on the cheaper end, or do bushings go for this? http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...63_p_1646.html
I've just never heard of Ballistic before, but then again, I've never fabbed my own arms, so.. And if it's not too much trouble, could someone give me a brief run down of what I'll need for arms? I feel like I'm overlooking a few things, and I've been up since 5 so I'm running on empty lol. I'll research places that sell all the parts, just need to double check.
Thanks
I've just never heard of Ballistic before, but then again, I've never fabbed my own arms, so.. And if it's not too much trouble, could someone give me a brief run down of what I'll need for arms? I feel like I'm overlooking a few things, and I've been up since 5 so I'm running on empty lol. I'll research places that sell all the parts, just need to double check.
Thanks
for arms, you need to decide first whether you want to both ends to be adjustable so you dont need to unbolt the arm to fine tune the alignment. it will cost a little more upfront, but it is WELL worth it when it comes time to dial everything in.
also, decide on the size of tubing you will be using, and whether or not you will need weld in bungs or be able to tap the ends for the right thread.
but here is what you would need for regular 2x.250 DOM arms with adjustable joints on both ends. Each arm will need 2 joints, 2 bungs, and 2 lock nuts.
#52
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ballistic is good, i use them pretty frequently for builder parts. cant beat the prices on alot of stuff, and their shipping has been awesome lately. very quick to the door.
for arms, you need to decide first whether you want to both ends to be adjustable so you dont need to unbolt the arm to fine tune the alignment. it will cost a little more upfront, but it is WELL worth it when it comes time to dial everything in.
also, decide on the size of tubing you will be using, and whether or not you will need weld in bungs or be able to tap the ends for the right thread.
but here is what you would need for regular 2x.250 DOM arms with adjustable joints on both ends. Each arm will need 2 joints, 2 bungs, and 2 lock nuts.
for arms, you need to decide first whether you want to both ends to be adjustable so you dont need to unbolt the arm to fine tune the alignment. it will cost a little more upfront, but it is WELL worth it when it comes time to dial everything in.
also, decide on the size of tubing you will be using, and whether or not you will need weld in bungs or be able to tap the ends for the right thread.
but here is what you would need for regular 2x.250 DOM arms with adjustable joints on both ends. Each arm will need 2 joints, 2 bungs, and 2 lock nuts.
I'm leaning more towards .250. Since it'd be more than capable, and it's cheaper than the .375 which would be more than enough. Sound like a good plan?
If I do one end adjustable, is that 1 of each then? I feel stupid having to ask these questions seeing as how I'm about to tackle this project, but I learn as I go a lot when I work on my Jeep, and more importantly, when it comes to welding, I'll be getting it done right.
Thanks again for this help. Wish we had rep buttons lol.
#53
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I'm leaning more towards .250. Since it'd be more than capable, and it's cheaper than the .375 which would be more than enough. Sound like a good plan?
If I do one end adjustable, is that 1 of each then? I feel stupid having to ask these questions seeing as how I'm about to tackle this project, but I learn as I go a lot when I work on my Jeep, and more importantly, when it comes to welding, I'll be getting it done right.
Thanks again for this help. Wish we had rep buttons lol.
Thanks again for this help. Wish we had rep buttons lol.
here is a quick parts list i would use if i were ordering the stuff from ballistic.
for a 3 link i would suggest this setup for each arm.
for the frame end
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1636.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ut_p_1274.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1406.html
for the axle end
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1226.html
#54
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it wont really make any difference during installation, but for adjustments like castor, or wheelbase, you will need to unbolt one end of the arms. it will still work just as well, its just a little easier to adjust with both ends.
.250 is plenty for most XJ's, unless you're doing more of the more extreme rock crawling you will likely never bend it.
with one end adjustable you will only need the 1 locknut and 1 bung. but you will still need 2 joints.
here is a quick parts list i would use if i were ordering the stuff from ballistic.
for a 3 link i would suggest this setup for each arm.
for the frame end
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1636.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ut_p_1274.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1406.html
for the axle end
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1226.html
.250 is plenty for most XJ's, unless you're doing more of the more extreme rock crawling you will likely never bend it.
with one end adjustable you will only need the 1 locknut and 1 bung. but you will still need 2 joints.
here is a quick parts list i would use if i were ordering the stuff from ballistic.
for a 3 link i would suggest this setup for each arm.
for the frame end
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1636.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ut_p_1274.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1406.html
for the axle end
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1226.html
Again, highly appreciate this!
Last edited by 92XJGuy; 09-16-2012 at 09:05 PM.
#55
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Originally Posted by 92XJGuy
Wow, thanks a lot! I don't know why I can't comprehend this lol, one of those days. I'm a little confused. Is it a total of 2 front end joints for both arms? Then 2 jam nuts and 2 bungs, total for both arms? Then 2 joints for axle end? Is what you posted pretty much a complete list of what I'll need for the arms? Aside from the DOM, arm links, and cross member? I'm sure this will all click tomorrow and I'll look silly, but maybe this will help someone who comes across this thread in the future lol.
Again, highly appreciate this!
You would need 1 of each for each arm
#56
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Makes perfect sense. 1 of each link for one arm. So for one arm, it's like $107. Perfect! I'm talking to a friend who apparently gets a good discount on .250 DOM, so we'll see how that works out. Then these http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1511.html and the Rusty's crossmember should be fine, right?
Last edited by 92XJGuy; 09-16-2012 at 09:33 PM.
#57
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Just so I could get an idea, what should I use if I wanted to fab my own crossmember? Trying to compare the price between making one and buying it. Also, what shocks do you guys recommend? I was going to go with Rusty's for the time being, since I don't want to drop $400 on Bilsteins right now. But I also don't have to off road until I get proper shocks, so..
#58
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Just so I could get an idea, what should I use if I wanted to fab my own crossmember? Trying to compare the price between making one and buying it. Also, what shocks do you guys recommend? I was going to go with Rusty's for the time being, since I don't want to drop $400 on Bilsteins right now. But I also don't have to off road until I get proper shocks, so..
you can wheel with cheap shocks if you want, just make sure they have the right amount of travel for your suspension.
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I'm debating on picking up cheap short arms so I can do this long arm build properly. I'm getting a good price on some LCAs, and UCA off an eBay store aren't that much. I just want these big lift parts out of my room lol. But I should be able to properly fab up the arms before winter. I'll make it my next project after the lift. This isn't something I want rushed haha. And I'll see how much metal is for me, and I'll decide on making my own crossmember or modifying Rusty's.
Cheers
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