home made long arms?
#1
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home made long arms?
how hard is it really gonna be to make some, how difficult is it gonna be to get the angles right
#2
Do you hear banjos?
Just use an angle finder as you fab them, and you can keep the angles in check. I don't think they would be hard at all to make, and plan on building some down the road...maybe this winter.
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#5
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It is not hard and the angles are easy if you make your uppers or lowers adjustable. In other words, put some threads in there and you can adjust the length once you start putting it together. I put mine together, had a death wobble and then added more castor and cured it in just a few minutes. That easy if they are adjustable. The advice to get an angle finder is good. I have one and they are invaluable for curing driveline vibes as well as setting up front castor. If you do much fabing, you will use it again and again.
#7
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well that settles it then im gonna build em once i get an angle finder hopefully i can put em on this winter before i deploy again
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#8
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Clay
The toughest thing about long arms is not the arms, but how you are going to attach them to the frame. You will have to answer some questions first. Are you welding or bolting to the frame? Are you making a removable crossmember, or will you have to take everything loose to drop the tranny or transfer case? Or maybe you want to make a combination pan and cross member. This is the difficult stuff to figure out. Also, what kind of lower link? Y link, three link, four link?
The toughest thing about long arms is not the arms, but how you are going to attach them to the frame. You will have to answer some questions first. Are you welding or bolting to the frame? Are you making a removable crossmember, or will you have to take everything loose to drop the tranny or transfer case? Or maybe you want to make a combination pan and cross member. This is the difficult stuff to figure out. Also, what kind of lower link? Y link, three link, four link?
#9
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Clay
The toughest thing about long arms is not the arms, but how you are going to attach them to the frame. You will have to answer some questions first. Are you welding or bolting to the frame? Are you making a removable crossmember, or will you have to take everything loose to drop the tranny or transfer case? Or maybe you want to make a combination pan and cross member. This is the difficult stuff to figure out. Also, what kind of lower link? Y link, three link, four link?
The toughest thing about long arms is not the arms, but how you are going to attach them to the frame. You will have to answer some questions first. Are you welding or bolting to the frame? Are you making a removable crossmember, or will you have to take everything loose to drop the tranny or transfer case? Or maybe you want to make a combination pan and cross member. This is the difficult stuff to figure out. Also, what kind of lower link? Y link, three link, four link?
i was thinkin about basically copying the rusty's design im not sure about the cross member yet, i saw one set of long arms that the guy just made a c channel that went around the unibody, he didnt use a crossmember i dont think
#10
Do you hear banjos?
Tying in a X-member will increase structural integrity through out. It will "bridge" the gap, and tie everything together, thus making the whole thing stronger. I will be welding plate to the unirails and attatching the X-member that I fab to that for even more strength. The vehicle was not designed with that in mind, so I assume that it is weak there, and needs to be beefed up to take the forces that will be applied to it.
#11
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Tying in a X-member will increase structural integrity through out. It will "bridge" the gap, and tie everything together, thus making the whole thing stronger. I will be welding plate to the unirails and attatching the X-member that I fab to that for even more strength. The vehicle was not designed with that in mind, so I assume that it is weak there, and needs to be beefed up to take the forces that will be applied to it.
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just an idea for you, here are my long arm mounts that i just made. I'm doing a 3 link. To do it right (correct separation at frame end) the upper arm needs to go up into the floor area. the radius arm setup like rusty's sells is fine for mild articulation but will put everything in a hard bind when twisted up good.
here is the pic, i still have to make my crossmember and drill 3 holes all the way through the frame and plates to finish tieing it in but you get the idea.
here is the pic, i still have to make my crossmember and drill 3 holes all the way through the frame and plates to finish tieing it in but you get the idea.