http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1007477 I have been flowing this one really good,

 

The problem with running AA v-8 mount kit if you plan on running a passenger drop axle. is the AA kit moves the engine over 1.5"s which makes running front driveshaft

 

here it is

 

Been following that one too. Makes me really want to drop one in

 

I have a chev v8 in one of my old xjs.. its an eazy swap and hooking to the jeep tranny is a joke just buy the adaptor from advance adptors or run a 5speed and t-case from a jimmy or blazer if you want. they bolt up the the 350 and the t-case is almost the same as what came in the old v6 jeeps anyway... (chev 2.5v6)
people say its a big motor for a small engine bay, but the real dimentions of the 2 engines are not that far off from each other. to be truthfull with you, the v8 has more weight but is the same size as the stright 6. more or less. ( with alt ac, pullys, ect)
use a early 90s dodge mini van rad and fans. it fits right in and works great. advace adaptors sells the motor mounts aswell if you do not want to make them.
hell I had a 454 in a Xj before and a friend has a 454 in a Yj pushing 825hp. now
I am also putting an amc 360 in one of my cherokees now. its going to be hooked up to a ax15... anyway I will take a pic or 2 for you tomorrow and post them. then you can see that is not that big of a job to put a v8

 

If you're going to drop in a Chevvy V8 or a V6-262, just throw a THM700R4 or a GM manual in behind the thing, and the NP231C.

The THM700R4 is actually a decent slushbox (1988 and up. 1987-older should just be broken down for scrap out of hand,) and can be found easily in 4WD configurations in the K10/1500, K10/1500 Suburban, and the K5/S10-4WD Blazer with the V6-262. (the K5 may also have the SBChevvy.) The V6-2.8/3.1/3.4L uses the "metric" GM bellhousing pattern, and will not bolt directly to the V8 (but I do believe that the THM700R4/4L60 bellhousing is removable, so you can swap them. You can get a V8 RWD bellhousing from any pickup, Suburban, van, RWD Pax car, or F-body, same transmission.)

The THM350 and THM400 (the latter became the 3L80/3L80E, then added overdrive for the 4L80/4L80E, and then the gear ratios were played around with and two overdrive ranges added to make the 6L80E) are the stuff of Legend, and are usually classed in with the Chrysler A727, Ford C6, and early Chevvy Powerglides (especially the iron case.) I don't have much experience with the 6L80E, but the 3L80 is every bit the THM400, and the 4L80 is just what I expected when a useful overdrive was added to the THM400. Both will readily accept the NP transfer cases with the proper input gear (I'm just not sure of spline count,) although the NP231C and NP241 are both common.

NB: The NP231C has a wider drive chain than the NP231J we have in our Jeeps, is comparable to the NP231D used in Dodge BR-series and Dakota, and not quite on par with the NP231HD or NP231DHD - but it is an improvement. All New Process cases use a mounting pattern derived from the later Dana 300 case (the round six-stud mount, not the earlier goofy IHC pattern,) and that makes the swaps easy. Novak can handle getting conversion input gears for a number of NP applications, if you need them, as I recall.

Yes, I've seen a V8-454 in an XJ - it was a tight fit. I almost bought a truck in Pacifica shortly after I first came out here - it was a 1972 Datsun with 1988 Corvette running gear in it - the only modification was that a custom driveshaft was made and the rear end was shortened. If you didn't know what you were looking at, and the bonnet and wings were on, it looked stock.

I went to look at the truck - it was a lot of work, and a nice job! He lifted the bonnet to show me the engine, and I was impressed with the fabrication. Then I realised I couldn't see the spark plugs, so I asked him about how I'd do a tune-up.

He reached down the front and rear corners of the engine bay on the side we were on, I heard a "pop" after each reach, and then he grabbed the wheelhouse and liften. The wing came right off, and there were access ports cut into the inner liner to access the plugs and wires. Nicely rolled edges as well - you wouldn't cut yourself on them!

The only problem is that I couldn't negotiate down to something I could afford on an E-5's pay. But, I did put him in touch with someone who could afford the truck, and who did buy it (and he let me drive it after I'd picked it up. The mechanical work complemented the fabrication work neatly - I had that sucker up to 160 before I decided to slow down before I got busted. Glass-smooth ride, too.)

A fully-dressed 6-242 comes in somewhere around 650-700#. A fully-dressed V8 is, I believe, slightly less than that (there are more "common walls" in the V8 casting than in the I6, and the crankshaft is considerably shorter. This helps greatly! If you're building for performance around town, you can throw on aluminum heads and save even more weight - but if you're building for "out in the blue," I'd suggest sticking with iron heads and throwing V8 ZJ springs up front - I've gone into why on a thread elsewhere, and I think it was even on this board.) The nickel content of the AMC alloy is rather higher (by empirical examination. I haven't had the opportunity to have a chemical assay done...) which contributes to the weight of the thing as well. And, especially if you have an earlier 6-242, you'll have a much heavier casting (the first NVH revision by ChryCo managed to shed about #50 from the basic castings, just in thinning the walls and webs.) However, inline sixes are invariably heavy bastards - especially the seven-main blocks (the AMC, probably the Ford Cleveland six, and maybe the Chevvy Stovebolt six - I'd have to check.) Recall that each main bearing means a web down the block - and while the seven-main is considerably stronger than even a five-main (more crank support,) figure you're adding about 15-20# in basic weight for each main cap/web/screw combination you're dealing with. ChryCo managed to save weight by using less material - thinner castings - rather than re-engineering the engine and cutting down on the number of mains used. This keeps bottom-end parts commonality up, fortunately for us.

 

white ford has 460 in van dog house between driver and passenger & cherokee on chevy frame with 454 (mean) cooler in real life!!

 

yes you can go to Novac for the adaptor shaft but i prefer the advance adaptor kits the staff is much nicer to deal with and will help you out as much as they can online through emails. also I have done this a few times. the blazer jimmy tranny and t-case bolt up to old v8s you do need a mounting plate if you are going to put the jeep np231 on to a no jeep tranny. anyway the kits are out their and if you buy the engine and tranny you want after taht you just email advance and they will just send you the part #'s and prices to the parts you need.
one of the reason I am going with hte 360 this time is that I do not need different shafts and adapting plates...I just need to go into my yard of jeeps and pull the parts I need.
the ax15 bolt right up the the 360 block with out any problems at all.

 

Yes.

 

hahhahaaaahhaaaaaa

 

When my 4.0 is down and out it will be 5.3 time out of my truck and 6.2 upgrade in the truck!!!

 

wow great post. i would love to see v8 power under a xj hood.

 

will they all fit?

 

I've got one in my '85. And yes, I have had overheating problems on trails before...electric radiator fans are definitely your friend (especially working ones).

 

my buddy had an XJ with a dodge 318, T727, and NP229. It had nonstop overheating issues, but it was a bad b***h in the mud... that is when it wasnt snapping axleshafts. 40'' boggers, a V8, and stock D30/D35 axles dont mix well