No issues now. But I did before with rubber bushings. At this point I am running some really solid stuff with a super solid track bar. It steers better now than ever. The key is getting everything, especially the one upper bushing on the axle really solid. I used the one on the diff housing.

 

i should add that my lower links are still running poly bushings at the axle end. i have the hiems for them but havent gotten around to it yet. the bushings are probably whats causing my castor difference, thanks 4.3, hadnt thought about that

 

I have poly bushings too. On the bottom, I bought them with the links. They are large and tough. On the top however, I had some extra DOM tubing turned down and used a bushing for the front spring of a Blazer. Seems to be tough. One thing I noticed is that if the housing rotates on bumps, the steering can change a little. Also, the castor change may be due to factory "defect". Mine has it. It is designed in to make your rig pull to the right. Generally it is 1.5° more negative on the passenger side.

 

negitive is tilted forward correct?

 

also if you look at the second pic i posted yesterday, the guys legs in front of me, he's standing level. that pic makes my eyes hurt but i dont know how to rotate it so it looks correct

 

Yes. Many times when a rig has a lift of 4.5" or greater the passenger side front coil will hit the sway bar because it is bowed forward. There is an upper ball joint you can get to fix this, but it is spendy.

 

I too run a 3 link.... I have bushings on my lowers, andA krawler joint on the upper axle.. everything frame side is a hiem joint. MY tavel through out the travel arc stays just about the same except at full drop. Also my steering anlges stay the same too


here is a pic of my angles at full drop

 

your track bar is why you stay the same thru the cycle. i need to get rid of my stock style and fab a higher mount to go along with better steering. its on the list, along with 20 other things

 

Here is mine

 

ok, question. why did you outboard the frame mount? better angle to match the drag link?

 

I am currently running a high steer that puts the end of the drag link about 5" higher than the stock one. If you move the end of the track bar up that high the end of it is inside the coil. I ran a shortened track bar to try to have one that was at the same angle as the drag link, but this caused me to have a little bump steer and some death wobble. So I said screw it, and made this one to be the exact angle and length of the drag link. No more problems with this stuff. However I had to move the whole thing over about 4" which put it outboard of the frame. Sway bar is unfortunately gone for good. I am working on a design that will not require any disconnects etc.

 

gotcha. because the shorter track bar geometry does not match the drag link geometry. so your setup works good then? i guess i should think about this when doing the new track bar. i was going to use my current frame mount. my drag link may not get raised as much as yours is though, as it looks like you have that teraflex knuckle and flat pitman arm

 

That is correct. When I started mocking it up the new track bar would have been too low for this set up. The bump stops would have to be really long. So I got a wrecking yard pitman arm that was longer and flat. I ended up bending it down about an inch. My turning radius is tighter now. All the one piece high steer setups have an upper arm that sticks out farther than the stock one diminishing turning radius. Now I raised everything up 4" on the frame end.

 

what vehicle did you rob the pitman arm from? not that i will ever use it but wondering none the less

 

I didn't rob it personally, but bought it at a local 4X4 shop for $200. I was told it came off a late Camaro. One nice thing about it is that it will put less leverage on the bottom of the steering box than the stock 4" drop arm