CowboyXJ

So I'm making my fender flares. And all welds have been ok. But as I'm welding the sheet metal it melts away. I've found a way to weld it. However I'm more then positive that when I go to weld the sheet metal to the body its just going to make holes.
I have the welder as low as I can with wire speed set at 4, on a scale of 1-10.
I know my welder is crap but its all I have. Its a Chicago Electric from Harbor Freight.
Is there a trick to welding the sheet metal to the body? Or any other means?

Bob98Classic

You need more speed..

Juan4you

Same issue here, I'm learning. I tried it on low and it worked for me. On high it was just burning the sheet metal

gpXJ

How thick is that sheetmetal? It looks like aluminum foil! Anything smaller than 16g is tough to weld for anyone not experienced, especially with a lower quality welder.

CowboyXJ

Its 22ga and I'm thinking the body it about that.
I'll have to do super short bursts.

wiggles

With bodywork in general it's all tack welds otherwise it burns through

Grayguy

That's SUPER thin, your better of using thicker stuff, then weld more with your wire pointed at your thicker metal and roll it up onto the body. It is gonna be ridiculously hard with that cheap welder, and your gonna want to run the smallest wire you can.

JandDGreens

I have found that the best way to weld thin metal is a technical called stitching were you weld for a very short period and then move to a spot where it is cool enough that you won’t get blow though. Then return back to the other area after it cools of. It also helps so that you can stay on the seam. The other thing that would help would be to tack some metal to back it. That is how we are going to weld my son’s quarter panel on.

Bob98Classic

I start with my patch panel on the back side of the repair area.
If my welder burn through a little, I add a little more wire speed.
Too much wire speed, I would get too much build up, and more
grinding to do later.
I start at the centers, and spot weld in an outward direction,
criss-cross pattern. I go a slow pace, and often dab with a cold
wet cloth to keep the area cool.
After spot welding, and some time for the panel to cool down,
I fill in with more welds, and cooling, so to not distort the panel.

Thin medals are difficult to weld. I try to use the same thickness
as my panel, or a thicker patch panel..
I clamp on angle braces also to help to not get warpage...

94xjohio

Been having same problems. Good tips by all, will have to remember them when I go to do my floors

Outlaw Star

Yes. Stitch welding is the best way to do thinner gauge metals. Not only does it not want to burn through, but it helps keep the metal from warping.

94xjohio

What is stitch welding, from what I seen when welding sheet metal, looks like you just do spot welds in the gap between the pieces

Outlaw Star

With thin gauges instead of running one long steady bead, you make a short bead, then move down a little, repeat. Then go back to end of first bead, repeat process over again. Kinda like looking at the stitching on your clothes. Notice the gaps between the stitches? Now imagine going back and filling those gaps. That's stitch welding.

CowboyXJ

Thanks for the tips. I had a chance to play with it today and it did good. Increased wire speed with stitch welds. Still have a little grinding to do but at least it didnt melt thru. I'll get it done tomorrow and post pics.
My Harbor Freight welder is not as bad as I thought.
Dont get me wrong first chance I get it'll be replaced with a Gas welder.

Bht911sc

Are you using a shielding gas (argon/co2?) or flux wire. The shielded method mig is very clean and you get more control. As the others said you want to do spots no more that 1/4 or less, keeping the tip moving from one area of the panel to the opposite area. This method will keep your warp age low,also keep a hammer dolly handy to keep the metal where it should be as you weld. I was a body man for 12 years as well as a auto body instructor. Your project looks good!