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DOM roof rack/platform

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Old 09-07-2016, 11:00 PM   #46
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You might be surprised by how much weight that back window can support. I scrapped cars for 2 years, broke many windows. Once swung a sledge hammer at the middle of the back window of a 1980 Camaro, it bounced! Watched the glass flex in about an inch or so. Don't think I would test the theory on my own car though.
The curvature of that back window is to a more severe degree than the XJ rear windows. I assure you, it would NOT withstand such shenanigans with a sledgehammer.
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Old 09-11-2016, 01:58 AM   #47
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Your rack reminds me of mine. I used a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" aluminum. I'm honestly really happy with it! Makes it really easy to slide things across it and it isn't course like expanded metal can be.
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Old 09-11-2016, 02:11 AM   #48
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Your rack reminds me of mine. I used a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" aluminum. I'm honestly really happy with it! Makes it really easy to slide things across it and it isn't course like expanded metal can be.
Interesting design. I like it. What made you decide to leave the back open?
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Old 09-11-2016, 11:33 AM   #49
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Interesting design. I like it. What made you decide to leave the back open?
It makes it easy to slide things up from the back. It works out well when something is heavy.
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Old 09-12-2016, 01:45 AM   #50
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It makes it easy to slide things up from the back. It works out well when something is heavy.
Nice.
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:29 AM   #51
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Your rack reminds me of mine. I used a 4x8 sheet of 3/8" aluminum. I'm honestly really happy with it! Makes it really easy to slide things across it and it isn't course like expanded metal can be.
That looks fresh! Aluminum sheet isn't off the table yet...
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Old 03-20-2017, 11:03 AM   #52
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Warm weather brings updates!

I'm sorry, but I am just not the type to freeze my *** off on something I don't HAVE to finish and then can't exactly paint - well, without bugging my neighbor to use his booth. Beside the point, I really hadn't yet figured out what I was doing for a latch... We'll call that done now. On with the pics!

Here is the bracket setup I came up with. I found this latch off CarParts.com. It's a pretty simple/compact latch that's conveniently yellow-zinc plated. I wasn't thrilled about the play in it, but once you have a sure-enough rigidly mounted pin for it to strike against, it's all good. the other two holes are for some rubber bumpers that cushion the strike and as well take up any rattly play.

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Here it is installed, all welded up and latched. It hits like a Mosler safe - so happy with it - zero rattle and you have to drop it from a few inches out to overcome the strike bushings. I wouldn't change a thing. The picture doesn't look like the bushings compress much, but it's actually perfect. I'll also be able to shim them out as they take a set over time. I'm a little worried the latch level might be vulnerable but that's too be seen I guess. I may trim it back or make a guard of sorts. Just relishing in the fact that it works at the moment though; lol.

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I'll get some better pictures of everything once it's all painted up. Getting there!!!

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Old 03-20-2017, 12:25 PM   #53
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Lookin' real good man!
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Old 03-24-2017, 09:21 AM   #54
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Thanks bro. ^

So I've yet to paint the thing b/c I'm trying to decide what I'm going to do about supporting the ladder while the hatch is open. Originally I thought of maybe a rub pad mounted to the hatch and just rely on the hatch's lift struts to hold everything up. Surprisingly a new pair of lift struts will hold both the hatch and the ladder up, but I fear someone pulling the hatch down and forgetting about this thing. I know that I can blame myself for knocking my head from time to time, but not the wife. Nor do I want to hear about it actually; lol.

So I think the new plan is to add some lift struts at the top, laying flat across the roof and applying pressure to a bracket at the base of each hinge. As I think about the motion of it, there should be good support holding the ladder up, once it's past about half of it's sweep. I also think I can make that bracket stop against the main hoop up there to prevent it from rotating up out of reach... Trying to knock this out over the weekend - weather permitting. More to come but I'm in love with this look.
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Old 03-24-2017, 05:51 PM   #55
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If the hatch will hold it with no issue, then I would suggest a fluorescent warning label on the interior panel of the hatch. I hear ya on not wanting to hear the wife if she wacks her head, but I think a large warning label would draw enough attention to avoid the issue.
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Old 03-26-2017, 02:10 PM   #56
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It's probably a little late, but I think securing it to the rear hatch near the bottom on some swiveling arms / upgrading the hatch struts would be the way to go. It would be more convenient if it opened up with the hatch.
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:34 AM   #57
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If the hatch will hold it with no issue, then I would suggest a fluorescent warning label on the interior panel of the hatch. I hear ya on not wanting to hear the wife if she wacks her head, but I think a large warning label would draw enough attention to avoid the issue.
Yeah.... a fluorescent warning label doesn't exactly go with the whole scheme of the Jeep. I peel warning labels off almost everything I'm around, lol.

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It's probably a little late, but I think securing it to the rear hatch near the bottom on some swiveling arms / upgrading the hatch struts would be the way to go. It would be more convenient if it opened up with the hatch.
I had thought about that but I just don't want the hatch involved with the assembly. I kind of like that it's "hands off" so to speak. Although, there may be a compromise in there...


Looking at it over the weekend, the struts across the roof are a bust. The linkage won't behave how I'd want it to and it would protrude through the eventual floor too much. Since it's so close to the rear hatch I'm thinking I may could mount some struts directly to the hatch, near the top, and then add stops to the hinge. I'm betting that even though the hatch anchor points will move around, the ladder should stay pressed up against the hinge stops. Might make for a cool looking assembly too... I'm going to try that.
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:41 AM   #58
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You know what you might be able to do, is some of those spring and cable setups that they make for drop ramps on large trailers. Basically just puts resistance on whatever you attach it to for the down stroke so it gets gently let down instead of slamming down... similar to garage door springs or whatnot.



https://www.zoro.com/buyers-products...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 03-28-2017, 10:35 AM   #59
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^ There's an idea... I bet there is an extension spring laying down in the tube that the cable is pulling on. Neat. Honestly I want the aesthetics of the gas cylinders just b/c I think they would look cool. In the meantime, it's painted and on the back of the truck.
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:20 PM   #60
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^ There's an idea... I bet there is an extension spring laying down in the tube that the cable is pulling on. Neat. Honestly I want the aesthetics of the gas cylinders just b/c I think they would look cool. In the meantime, it's painted and on the back of the truck.
Looks good man! Yeah, the gas struts would look pretty cool. Do they make them with a negative effect like that? Wanting to "pull shut" instead of "push open"?
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