At 5.5" lift I have zero issues with the truss hitting the oil pan. Plenty of room. I can drop the pan with the truss there at ride height and its no problem.

 

Why not just get one from rusty's, I think its like $25 and will more than handle 33's

 

And how much up travel do you have? When I didn't bump stop I had my upper hit the oil pan all the time. It didn't look good. lol That was at 4.5 with 33's though. Now with 5.5 and 36's the tires will hit long before the arm.

 

Cause if he dose it himself it will be stronger and cheaper.

 

Because 1 it says rustys..I perfer to not have that! And 2 it doesn't really do much, it looks cool but doesn't look functional at all.

And I'm at 3" so thats good to bring up with clearence and stuff guys.

 

I am bump-stopped, I'm running 35's on 5.5" lift and trimmed so I need bumpstops!

 

I bought one of those and gave it as a "gag gift" last Christmas at our local clubs party.

Trust me that piece of crap does nothing to strengthen your axle.

I like the tube trusses but at the time i had rectangle stock and no DOM. You make use of what you have cause its cheap!

 

And usually stronger when done correctly. And it always has that rugged look..like nope I'm not bolt on and no one bought me. I'm homemade!
That look it just..not buyable?

 

I had 1/8" laying around so thats why I used it. It depends on how good of a welder you are. Welding 1/4" to .120 wall isent easy, if you can do it then go ahead and use the 1/4" 1.5" .120 wall should be more then plenty. Just make sure to brace up the stock pass mount, as thats where your weak link becomes. Thats why I tied it all into eachother.

Never even had a problem with clearance, not one. It was super cheap to do, and worked great.

Because it rustys! All theres is, is a little plate attaching the diff to the control arm mount. Junk. Why pay to get something thats junk, when you can spend the same money, build it yourself, and make it beef!!

 

why waste time and money on a dana 30?

 

Because its plenty for most common trail rigs (not full rock crawlers)... Cheap... Party readily available used or new... HP... Many gear options... Bolt in for several model jeeps and alnist all jeep lifts bolt right up...

 

A D-44 is only slightly stronger than a built D-30, D-60's require 36" tires+ and a shave to clear most stuff.

If I had to do it all over again I might go with a 60 but I'm not hard core crawling my rig since its not a trailer queen yet. I can make a 30 live if I'm easy on it.

 

30's and 44's share the same axle joints... so whats the point if the power wont make it past the axle joints who cares if anything in the housing is stronger right? no point in the wasted money... ive built my 06 F250 Dana 60 for cheap... heck i only paid like $250 for the axle by itself and its now labeled as strong as the kingpins... only probly is all the cast on it make it kinda tricky to build off of...

 

so what techniques are you guys using to weld to the center section with all of those trusses? Or are you just welding like its normal mild steel and hoping for the best? Wondering because this is something I ought to be doing but havent figured out how best to weld to the center section yet

 

HEAT... i use my mig welder all the way up with flux wire because flux wire burns hotter... on a axle this isnt a huge deal... some dont even touch the center section... connecting the tubes on either side is all thats needed really... it still keeps the axle from flexing... i dont plan to even truss mine as the fronts to much of a pain and pretty much impossible and the rears plenty strong... my little XJ isnt gonna bend giant axle tubes...