Custom rock rail/slider pics anyone?
#32
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Yeah, but bolting them works well enough. Not everyone has a welder, knows how to weld, or is competent enough to weld thick metal to thin. When I get frame stiffies I'll weld them, but until then they've got like 12 bolts holding them on each side. Its just easier for the average wrencher/wheeler to bolt em on.
#33
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I also like the idea that they're still easily removable if I decide to do rocker replacement or modify them down the road. I also have frame stiffeners ready to be welded in and plan to take them for line-x when my rear bumper is finished.
#34
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Year: 1990
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Ok because I welded my stiffies in and it was a challenge for me that thick to thin stuff but they are in and hold not pretty but functional. I'm going to build some and weld them on
#37
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Year: 1989 Laredo
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
Some very nice work in this thread.
My rockers (and much else) were rotted anyway. 3/16 x 2 x 6 tube, lots of cutting discs, lots of all position welding. I can lift either side of the Peep by jacking on the rocker, really stiffened up the truck (new floor didn't hurt either).
So if your rotted and going to cut out your rockers, weld in your slider as an integral part of your new structure.
Alternatively there are some great bolt and weld options in here. As a redo I'd go for more stickout as better protection to the lower door skins.
My rockers (and much else) were rotted anyway. 3/16 x 2 x 6 tube, lots of cutting discs, lots of all position welding. I can lift either side of the Peep by jacking on the rocker, really stiffened up the truck (new floor didn't hurt either).
So if your rotted and going to cut out your rockers, weld in your slider as an integral part of your new structure.
Alternatively there are some great bolt and weld options in here. As a redo I'd go for more stickout as better protection to the lower door skins.
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