Jeepnfm

So tomorrow I'm gonna do a Dakota/XJ leaf pack. First time making one so I was looking for any tips or info on how anyone else did theirs. I know the leaf pin is offset on the Dakota springs so I will have to drill new ones so they are centered like the XJ. Other than that I'm curious which leafs were used to make the new spring pack. I am currently running a SkyJacker BB spacer/shackle kit that since installing has turned my rear leafs inverted. I don't need anymore lift, suspension works great, just want to get back the normal rear ride height.

thelittlebrutethatcould

i've always wondered how these bastard packs work, i'll be subscribed, good thread

Banchez

The only advise I can give after doing mine is make sure you have a couple of large c-clamps to get the springs together. Its pretty easy once you get to doing it. I cut my s-10 springs just before the eyelets and drilled the center hole and they went right in pretty smooth. I got about 4.5 inches from mine which actually surprised me

mike.2492

here is a good link I found, complete with pics. http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...udget_Lift.htm

hope it helps, I am planning on doing this sometime this summer and am wondering how well it works. Keeps us posted.

Jeepnfm

Well the finished results are in, almost 4" gained which puts the wheel well spacing between the front and rear tires within 3/4" of each other. Ride is a little stiffer but actually welcomed (I am running with no sway bars), corners better without as much lean. And in overall I think it improved the look of my XJ. Now down to the details...

I sourced my springs from a 1992 Dodge Dakota 4x4, I just butchered the U-bolts and spring clamps till I could remove all the leaves minus the main leaf. Only the two middle leaves were used, the thick overload short one was not used.

Jack the rear of the Jeep up till you have a fair distance between axle and work surface, support vehicle with jack stands at the rear bumper mounting locations, remove wheels, unbolt lower shock mount, unbolt brake line splitter block from axle, carefully remove the spring pack clamps (I used a rubber mallet and a flat head to move the tab to where I could grab it with linemans pliers and bend out of the way). Now the fun starts, with the jackstands in place lower the rear axle till the leaf springs are no longer under load, remove U-bolts by removing nuts or by cut off wheel like I did, be careful there are brake hard lines on the backside of the axle directly behind the U-bolts, if cutting be aware of spark shower on fuel tank as well as the bolts are under load so be prepared for when they snap loose. Once the axle is free of the leaf pack, raise the axle up just enough to put pressure on the leaf pack, grind the centering pin of the top of the leaf pack, this bolt is also under load so be aware, lower axle again and remove leaves.

The main leaf and the smallest are the only ones I kept from my factory pack. The smaller of the Dakota springs gets drilled center of the leaf, it is the same length as the Jeep factory one it replaces. The next leaf is offset with it's pin hole, I just measured the distance on the original leaf from one side to the hole, marked there, and then the same from the other direction, I then just split the difference, It's 2 1/8" centered from either one of theses marks. Be sure to do all leaves the same way and in the same direction.

I used a grade five 3/8" bolt as my new leaf pin, I just used a bench grinder to grind the hex points off till it was round. Reassembling the pack I placed my new pin in the set hole in the axle, small Jeep leaf first (clamp side towards the front of vehicle), leaf shim, small Dakota leaf, leaf shim, large Dakota leaf (long side towards the rear, the front of this leaf should be right under the front leaf eyelet), leaf shim, main spring. I was able to squeeze with my hand the main leaf onto the rest of the pack enough to get the nut on the leaf pin a few turns. Once pack is loosely assembled slowly raise the axle while keeping leaves straight till they are almost tight on each other. Tighten leaf pin, raise axle until leaf spring is under load weight of vehicle, replace leaf pack clamps in same places as before, install new U-bolts and hand tighten, tighten leaf pin, next tighten U-bolts, 1/2 dia rod U-bolts torque to 65lbft in a star pattern, check torque after 50 miles and 500 miles. Reinstall shocks, reinstall brake splitter block, replace wheels and you are done.

I have heard that the Dakota shocks compensate for the additional height but I have had no issues... Yet! I also made a bracket to move the brake line splitter up a few inches so it didn't max out the soft line between the axle and body, I just made it with some scrap steel and some bolts I had around, 3" height was the only measurement I made on it. I have no SYE and not one bit of vibration from this increase in height, maybe I'm lucky?

Here are some photos of the bastard pack build and results, before and after, brake block bracket, leaves old and new, tires are 31x10.50 and 2.5" cut from fender for size reference... GOOD LUCK!!!