Couple years ago I replaced the factory radiator because of a cracked tank at the bottom mount. I purchased what I thought was a decent radiator from Rockauto, it was supposed to be for max cooling with the tow package. It was a bit thinner that the factory unit, but I needed to get my daily driver back on the road ASAP. I wasn't happy with it because the engine did run hotter after I installed it. I did an electric fan conversion and changed to a 180 degree thermostat, it helped a little. Fast forward to a few weeks ago. I was driving home from work and noticed my A/C started to blow warm. Then I started to smell coolant. Then I noticed the gauge was in the red. It turns out the fuse connector for my fan melted and cut power off to the fan. That caused the engine to start to get really hot and the radiator blew apart at the seam. I shopped around and found a two row all aluminum radiator for $165. I placed my order and thought I would have it in a few days. It was coming from Southern California to Northern California. UPS incorrectly sorted my package and shipped it to New Jersey. It finally showed up today. I starred to install it, but since it's larger than the original I couldn't get the lower hose neck past the steering box. I had to pull the whole front end off just to get the damn thing in. I have to button up a few things tomorrow after work and then I can see how much cooler the engine runs.

 

Success! The operating temperature never went over 195 degrees with the A/C on.

 

Just curious, why get only two row?

Why not get a three row for that extra cooling capacity?

 

Hard to find and expensive. It's a tight fit with the two row already.

 

Hey man at least ya got it fixed. May the jeep gods be forever in your favor haha

 

I've done some reading on this subject and with ZJ's, 3 rows don't cool any better than 2 rows. Why spend the extra money and deal with the clearance problems? Unless you're constantly towing a heavy trailer, but then you probably won't be using a jeep.

 

OK.

I've had three row cores put in stock radiators in the past, when doing engine conversions( V-6 toy and V-6 Nissan). They did the trick with keeping the temps down. I didn't know it wouldn't work on the Jeeps.


I don't know if KKS is any good, but they're only $30.00 more for the three row over what you got.


Now clearance, that's a whole 'nother issue.


That's why I ask questions.

 

Woof! Woof!

 

Another upgrade to the cooling system today. I only had about half an inch of clearance between the water pump and fan assembly after I did the electric fan swap. Not a huge deal, but it worried me to have so little room for things to move around. I swapped in an XJ water pump and pulley and now have almost two inches of clearance. I can now have piece of mind knowing that the pulley and fan assembly won't clash. Here's a before and after pic.

 

Any specific year XJ waterpump and pulley? I'm shooting for a complete cooling system rebuild before next summer. Looking to acquire parts between now and then.

 

The pump is for an 87-2001 XJ, the pulley was pulled from a 97 XJ.

 

Thanks!

 

I'm very happy with the results of the upgrades. The fan swap and all aluminum two row radiator made a huge difference with the operating temperature. Here is the parts list for a setup like mine.

94 Ford Taurus 3.0 fan assembly
Hayden electric fan controller from Amazon and a 40amp circuit breaker
180 degree thermostat
Aluminum two row radiator from Radiator Express
87-01 XJ water pump
97 XJ water pump pulley
50/50 antifreeze mix with a cooling system conditioner

Other changes that I have done under the hood.
A 2001 intake manifold and fuel rail
Dodge Neon 703 fuel injectors
2001 power steering pump and bracket
97 ZJ P/S pump pulley
Moved the IAT sensor from the intake manifold to the air cleaner assembly.

 

Ok, if I can pick yer brain for a bit. You have a 95 ZJ, I have a 97 ZJ

2001 intake and fuel rail, why?

With the fuel injector swap and manifold, did you notice any improvement in mileage. Now, yes, I understand, I didn't buy my ZJ for the good mileage, but, any help while increasing power or reliability is a plus.

Power steering pump, why? Better?

 

The 95 and older 4.0 uses a different power steering bracket than the later years and the 95 stuff wouldn't work with the newer intake manifold. I noticed that engine is a bit more responsive with the 703 injectors, but no real noticeable gain on power. The intake manifold gave a little gain according to the seat of the pants dyno. The engine pulls a little longer and higher into the rpm range with the new intake. I used the newer fuel rail just because it came with the manifold. My fuel mileage didn't drop any, and it didn't go up either. The 32 inch tires are what killed my fuel mileage. I plan on regearing some day, maybe after the Dana Turdy Five breaks.